Hard moves getting to the first bolt and moving past it. Easier climbing to another tricky section up high. Some people start by stepping up on the block to the left and then moving right. This drops the grade down a notch or two.

Born to Crimp

Climb the positive crack in the corner up and to the right. The climb ends at bolted anchors beneath the large roof. A good beginner lead.

Crackin' Up

Start up the clean, prominent dihedral for a few feet. Then follow bolts up and right to the arete. Climb the arete until its possible to step left and climb up the face just over a roof. Finish at bolted rings. (These are out of sight around to the right)

Pole Dancing

This route wanders a bit and the bolt placement is questionable (i.e., ran out).  Although it's a bit sketchy, it's a must do, as the iron cross crux will have you grinning with pain.

Mr. Henar

The bolted route just left of Blind Prophet.  Crimp your way through waves of swirled rock to a marginal rest before the crux at the small roof.  Tweak your way through powerful gastons and long reaches to the anchors.

Black and Blue Velvet

Climb the technical and flaring dihedral just right of the smooth face with swirls in the rock (Black and Blue Velvet).  Pull the first roof then continue through steep jugs to an upper head wall where a thin crux awaits.  This route is one of the best at Pilot.

Blind Prophet

This route just got a new bolt job with a plethora of glue-ins.  It is now extremely well protected and accessible.

Clip the first two bolts of Dihedral Route, then traverse left across the orange face and around the corner.  Follow the bolt line up to a big ledge and pull the roof to finish.

Single Handed Sailor

Mixed route just right of Surry County Ethics. Shares the 4th bolt and finish to Surry County Ethics. This short route is rarely done despite fun moves off the start.

Start a bit stretched and move onto a couple of sharp flakes that lead to easier climbing after the 3rd bolt. At the 4th bolt the route follows the crack and takes small gear well. A #.75 fits nicely further up and left, before the anchors. Follow to the anchors of SCE or head straight up and use a large tree. I believe both are considered finishes to SCE.

Syzygy

Easy climbing to the first bolt, then crimp your way through the sharp arete to a ledge with the first set of anchors. Reaching the first anchors is 11a and around 60 feet of climbing.

Climbing through the second pitch goes at 11b as the route continues on bolts out left through the steep face. Take some alpine draws to reduce the drag of going around the corner and through the roof.

When Shrimp Learn to Whistle

A great mental challenge for the confident 5.8 leader. Requiring balance and skill, somewhat slopey moves take you up the face past 3 bolts.

Turkey Shoot

Overhang Hangover

This is the farthest right "slab" route in the ampitheatre.  Climb the dark rock past 3 fairly well spaced bolts to the 2 bolt anchor.  This is a good route, and is pretty safe if supplement the bolts with gear.

Cow Patty Bingo

The left side of the amphitheater. Climb the vegetated dihedral.

I'm Flyin'

Climb the techy vertical face to an exciting pull through a big roof. Finishes at the first permadraw of Blind Prophet. Traverse left and lower from neighboring Black and Blue Velvet anchors.

Blind Prophet Lite

Starts in the same dihedral on the right side of the Amphitheatre as Single Handed Sailor.  Climb the dihedral to the bottom of a roof. Then move right on a huge horizontal.  Move around the corner and finish up the same face as Psyco-Metric

Dihedral Route

Climb Mr. Henar to the intermediate station.

Henar Lite

Easy face climbing takes you past 3 bolts to anchors.

Mild Mannered Secretary

Like it's neighbors the first bolts are a little high and stretched out but this is a pretty safe lead. A simple face climb leads you past 4 bolts to a good rest. The 4th bolt can seam far but clip it from above and you'll have a solid right hand hold to clip from. Look up at the daunting roof and plan your attack for the roof crux. 2 bolts protect you through the crux on the way to he anchors. Extend the 6th draw long to reduce drag

Best if followed to get your draws back.

Arms Control

Climb the left line of bolts on the dark rock.

Pump Street

(Sit start under the large block is optional) Start on a large block.

Climb an awkward overhanging start past two bolts to a crack.

Follow the crack up the face to a nice boulder style mantle out the top or choose easier terrain on the left of the face.

A tree provides for a natural anchor.

Surry County Ethics

Too Old to Rock and Roll

This route is on the left side of the amphitheater. This side stays dry even when it's raining.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 08. Amphitheater