This is a hard but well-protected slab with impossibly blank looking moves down low and an interesting dike and knobs up higher. The start is easily aided for those wishing to keep the grade in the low 11 range.

 Start at the top of the gully (have your belayer down the gully), on the far left end of the small ledge, and traverse hard left past the initial crux to better holds (a little magic helps here). Continue up the bolt line, following the dike (some hidden holds on the right also) to a sloping ledge. From here, easier but runout slab (if you made it this far the runout will be tame) leads the anchor above a short flake.

Dr. Strangelove

One of the few true chimneys in the region. Quite entertaining to watch!

 Start about 15-20' inside the chimney at some good rails. Follow good features until the chimney starts to squeeze down. Place a larger cam here and begin to move right. Continue moving right past another large piece. The chimney begins to squeeze down really tight and the struggle begins. Exit the squeeze onto a flat ledge. Follow the right facing corner feature to another anchor. Lower off down and to the right.

Picken' on the Fat Kid

An incredible thin temperature dependent route.

 The first two bolts may seem impossible if it is not in the 30's or lower. Thin explosive moves get you up to the third bolt. A hard transition right gains the low angle ledge and the first good rest. Move up the crack then back left onto the face past two more bolts and one last tough sequence. Finish on S-crack's anchors.

Thin Skin

Step off the block/ledge at the top of the 5.9 off width, clip a bolt.  Then make a balancy move of two to the second bolt.  At a stance you can choose flakes to the left or a crack on the right of the arete.  They both are fun options.  Continue past bolts, maybe a piece of gear or two to the top.  At the top there are two bolts to belay or TR from.  To the climbers right are a set of rap rings.  One rap will get you back to the ground.

Ramp Arete

The appropriately named S crack is located up hill on the left side of the main wall.  Follow the S crack plugging some gear, jamming, smearing and contemplating whether or not to grab the root ball...your choice!  Continue up to a pillar.  Enjoy some great face climbing and slabbing past 3 bolts to the anchors.

S Crack

Cool variety with a flaky crack, knobs, crystal slab, and an occasional jug. Begin on flake 10 feet left of S Crack with gear to a big jug near a rhododendron.   under first bolt move left foot shelf, clip bolt, find crystals on slab, then fire up for a white splotch jug .  Mantle to large ledge that is the start of route Flakey.  From the anchor at start of Flakey, move left up ramp on gear, then past sequential moves on face with 3 bolts.

Heat Wave

This is the ramp sharing the start with Wondercrack continuing left where WC moves right. Gain the first ledge via the cave, clip the first bolt, and pull the single move that allows you to gain the second ledge - clipping the second bolt on the right as you ascend. Follow the third bolt along the ledge using good feet that allow you to gain the anchor below BRCA. From these anchors, rap/lower from the rings or continue up for a second pitch on any number of fun routes on either side of giant chimney (including BRCA). A great route for beginners or those seeking moderate to easy terrain. 

Thar Be Dragons (Slab Ramp)

Pretty decent holds and a right angled ramp lead to the first high bolt. But the business starts here. Crimp up on very small edges and dimples in a bouldery sequence to the 2nd bolt. It eases off shortly after the 2nd bolt and then gets considerably easier after bolt 3 where you run it out to the anchors. Shares anchors with Slim Pickens

 You can access these anchors for TR by climbing How Do You Want Your Eggs on the Hominid Wall and then rapping/lowering over.

Booger Picken

Make some sideways moves on the horizontal crack to get up to the first bolt.  Thin, hard moves lead to the second.  Continuing working to get to the third bolt, then the ledge.  Easier climbing up past another bolt and anchors at the top.

Optical Delusion

Smear and crimp you way past a bolts to a seam feature.  Continue up past another cruxy move to the top.

Vultures

Climb a ramp feature past a couple of bolt.  Continue up and right on a diagonal hand crack to a set of anchors.  The second pitch continues up the slab past bolts and gear to another set of anchors.  With careful rope management this route can be climbed in one nice long pitch.   

Wondercrack

Scramble up the dirty gully in the center of the main wall.If you're a hard man, pull out your #4 and #5 (or even #6) and climb the offwidth in good style (5.9)If you'd rather not lose skin and clothing to the offwidth, clip the two bolts on the face to the left and stem your way up instead (5.7). Technically this isn't "the climb".Either way this is a another way to gain the ledge and the climbs above rather than climbing the slab to the right.

5.9 Offwidth

The Everyman's dihedral.  Clip the bolt on the adjacent route to avoid falling into the pit.  Find your path of least resistance to reach the only other bolt; don't look down.  After there, ready your big gear, and move from wide lie backs to fist-sized crack to hands to fingers with a few face moves.  Surprisingly good stances and holds.  Often wet in the morning or after a rain, but will dry up with afternoon sun.

Wide Way or the Highway

Slab your way up the face between the two corners - Big Rock Candy Arete on the left and Ramp Arete on your right - past bolts and some gear placements.  Can seep after rain.

Unknown Slab

Good holds lead to the first high bolt but quickly give way to harder, thinner climbing past the next couple.  Continue up easy ground to anchors.

Slim Pickens

Climb the impossibly blank looking slab for a few moves (cold temps and a good imagination help) to gain a series of thin seams which lead left. Follow these, traversing left a bit when they peter out, to a small overlap and a stance above. At the stance, clip a bolt way right, then hand traverse the rail up and right to easier climbing and the shared anchor for Picken' and Grinnin'.

Seams Impossible

This is one of the most classic lines at Big Rock. It has high quality rock, unique granite features, and great movement. Not to be missed if you are climbing at the grade.

 Gain access to the bolts on the Main Wall alcove by either climbing the 5.9 OW to the left, or BR Candy Direct to the right. Look for a set of three bolts next to an overhanging flake rail. Ride these hero sized jugs to the third bolt and the stopper crux. Move left around the arete on the face that has amazing knobs. Tech your way past two bolts to gain the ramp. Move up the ramp and step back right when easy. Easy run to the anchors.

 This pitch is easily top accessible. You can also rap twice to the ground with a 60m or once with a 70m. You can also link the 5.9 OW into this climb for a ~115' pitch.

Big Rock Candy Arete

A fun face route not to be missed. More in line with the grade for P2 than the 5.9 OW. The route unfolds as you move vertically.

 Start on some thin friable edges. This section will clean up more over time. Get into the groove and reach right to clip the first bolt. Pull the funky thin flake to gain a horizontal. Move right to get a cam or two. Pull the tricky moves straight up below the second bolt. Move up on thin feet using the arete for a sidepull to the last bolt. Surmount the face and clip the bolt on the slab with a 24" runner and head left to the anchor.

Big Rock Candy Direct

Kin to Daddy Day Care on Upper Shaman.  Start left below the boulder and traverse right to the crack.  Mostly easy climbing with lots of jugs.  Lie back the arete or go fingers in the crack; either way you'll find the crux, which can feel a bit desperate.  Ends on anchors with Vultures.

Raven Rookery

Climb the initial delicate moves up and left on a steep ramp to the crack.  Work left and up to another bolt.  Enjoy the great edges to the anchors at the top.

Picken & Grinnin'

Climb the obvious arching flake past two bolts then up onto the easier face past two more bolts to the anchor. Really a fun route for the grade.

 This can be climbed as a pure Sport route but the bolts are oddly placed so it feels better with some trad gear if you're new at the grade. You can place a #3 in the crack between bolts 1 & 2. It's pretty easy climbing past bolt 3. There's a weird slab move you have to do before you can clip bolt 4. Look for a #2 placement on the left to feel better about it or if the feet are wet. Make the slab move crux after clipping bolt 4 and run it to the anchor

 There is an anchor on top of the next smaller ledge at the start that you can anchor your belayer too if desired. Also be careful when on the ledge to not kick anything off as it will fall down on anyone climbing S-Crack

Flakey

This is the largest cliff face at Big Rock. It faces mostly south and dries quickly. The wall also contains the highest concentration of climbs as well as some of the highest quality. Several routes here can be done as multipitch. Top access is gained by walking climbers left of the Main Wall until the gully ends. Circle back right and you will be on top of Vultures and Optical Delusion.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall