Hands down, one of the contenders for the best route at World Wall I! Initial cruxes include the technicalities of

Propaganda

(.12c). From the anchors of

Propaganda

, tackle the bouldery bulge that leads up and trough a small and techy dihedral. Don't blow the clip at the top of this corner, as this will equate to BIG AIR. Continue through easier, yet big moves to a rest. Get the heart rate down, for the next 25ft is a pumpfest leading all the way to anchors, which are closely guarded by a sloppy rail.

Black Ice

This route is a linkup of bust a move into black ice. climb bust a move to the propaganda anchors then climb straight up the beautiful black streak. The technical crux is at the second bolt, but the red point crux guards the anchors.

Vanilla Ice

This is an exention to

Aborigine

. Once you hit the fixed draws at the anchor keep shooting up on the ever steepening wall.

Technorigine

The rarely climbed crack above Reptiles and Amphetamines. Plug gear as well as clipping a few bolts. Finishes on the anchor for Dreaming of a Life of Ease.

Sinistral Purpose

Fun addition that gets unfairly labeled as a squeeze job - it provides a long, bulletproof sequence on great stone.

After dispensing with the less difficult crimping at the start, climb over a small roof to some technical traversing. Grab a quick rest then climb some continuous, pumpy moves that connect you up with Psychosomatic at that route's crux. Get ready - that crux crimp has never felt so far away!

Gerbil Killer

This route begins in a left facing dihedral that is littered with some blocky jugs and continues up a slightly overhanging corner.

Jug or Not

Diverging from Chronic after the second or third bolt, the easy beginning is about all the two routes have in common. Get ready to weld some really small crimps to the wall during the powerful and gently overhanging sequence leading to the roof. Get back what you can and make difficult moves above the roof that lead to a fairly sustained crux section. Although somewhat contrived, the original line tackles another difficult boulder problem above a rest at the end of the first crux. It is probably more sensible, however, to reach about 4 feet right to jugs on the Oval Orifice route and bypass the boulder problem.

Dr. Evil

Eric Sachs added four bolts to the center of World Wall, and Drew Ruana sent the route that resulted - a huge linkup. Begin on Whore of Babylon to the crux at V10-11 to a mild rest, then sustained 5.13+ climbing to a V6-7 microcrimp problem to join the V6 Flatliner crux and then left into the V9 boulder finish of Lost Horizons. Massive endurance insanity to make the hardest route in WA.

Brave New World

A neglected route at the far right end of the World Wall, this climb starts from the same ledge as Disincarnate and False Idol, but traverses to the rightmost end before heading up.  Overhanging, but with good holds, the first 4 bolts go by without much effort.  From there, it's a big move to a jug at the 5th bolt.

Jealous God

Harder variation of BLM-4. Steep climbing on crimps and jugs.

BLM-3

Climb the start of either Opening Act or Girls in the Gym to the reach the two-bolt anchor at about midpoint of the climb. Three extensions branch off from the anchors, take the leftmost of these, climbing an obvious, bolted crack to the Judgement Day anchors above. Requires a 70m rope to lower.

The Crack

Near the middle of WW1 Aborigine takes a steep line just on the edge of a dihedral. It features a low sequency crux that leads to a few pumpy moves and a great rest. Then you shot up to the anchors with a mini crux after cliping the last bolt. If your not tired continue on fixed draws on the extension.

Aborigine

The best 5.10 at Exit 32?  Starts up the handcrack left of Dairy Freeze (don't worry, sportos, you don't need gear).  Follows a series of reachy, balancy moves up the great high friction face.  Pretty much every move makes you think, and just when you are thinking this is hard, a jug appears that you missed by about 2 inches.  Fun, long, exposed and well-protected, and a great warmup if the line for Abo and Pyschowussy is too long.

BLM-6

This route has a harder crux than Chronic and adds 30 extra feet of balancy 5.11/12 climbing to an anchor above that of Chronic. A further extension above this offers 50 or so more feet of climbing with a couple of interesting cruxes and a harder grade, maybe .13c/d?

Extended Illness

This route has several cruxes, as well as several rests along the way.  The last roof is very fun once you've figured it out.  Tricky face climbing down low leads to a boulder problem through the roof above.

You can continue into

Hydrophobia

easily from the anchors for a full 120 foot pitch.

Viagro

What could possibly be better than climbing Chronic? How about climbing past two more anchors above the top of Chronic for a 40+ meter pitch? While the 25 feet of climbing to the second anchor (AKA Lizard Prince; shares the anchor with Illness/Extended Illness) adds little in the way of difficulty, the 50 or so feet to the third anchor contains a couple of potent cruxes. It is also possible to approach the top via Extended Illness (or, if you want it to be even harder, Extended Evil!). Confusing? Go climb them all and sort out the details! They're worth it! I can't remember if this is Lizard King or Lizard Queen; I guess we'll stick with the Jim Morrison reference until someone can clarify. As with many of the routes here, I'm not really sure who climbed it first.

Lizard King

It's true: ANOTHER extension to Aborigine now exists!!! This entertaining and somewhat adventurous addition provides another 60+ feet of climbing on mostly clean rock. There is only one questionable section of rock: a pile of loose-looking blocks right above the Technorigine anchor that must be surmounted to reach better rock above. There are two cruxes: one in the middle and one passing a bulge near the top of the route. The rating is merely a rough estimate, since you can get a full rest at the Technorigine anchor.

Extendorigine

This is basically an extension to

Rainy Day Woman

.  It is very easy climbing to a one move boulder problem.  Its a fun long pitch though, and you can lower to the ground with a 70 meter rope.

Deluge

Climb the dihedral just right of Girls in the Gym on really amazing holds.  Steep climbing on holds that are all jugs until several moves after exiting the dihedral; the climbing changes dramatically as you follow bolts up and left on small crimps and edging.  You finally reach a few jugs to take a breather on.  You are through the crux, don't get too comfortable though, it could be a heart breaker.  Traverse across the face to the left on two small crimps and very delicate feet and clip the chains.

BLM-7

A bunch of jugs go straight up the fragmented rock just left of Son of Jesus.  After playing find the piton continue up until the holds peeter out.  Crux is stepping left around the bulge to the anchors.

Devil's Advocate

On the far left side of World Wall I, on the way to Micro World.  The start is an increasingly steep jug haul up to a thin, technical crux.  Short people think this is harder than the given grade.  The route finishes with a steep face (including a mantle on a big sloper) on amazingly grippy rock out of character with the rest of the climb and the area.

Dairy Freeze

A short, yet demanding sport route up the center of the small "amphitheater" to the left of the main wall rising above Launch Ledge. This route is tricky off the ground and finishes with a difficult boulder problem. It remains dry almost always and is very clean.

Bad Guy

An extension to Hydrophobia that pulls the huge roof. It's about V10 to get over it and then is still 12+/13- to get to the chains.

Skipping the Goods

Start up an easy flake, clipping a few bolts, and then get slammed by the hardest move on the route.  Cross into a bad crimp sidepull, work your feet, and crank hard for the good holds above.  The moves become more balancey but less difficult as the angle eases.  When you think you are about to top out, traverse right on a plethora of jugs to the chains.

Insinuation (AKA BLM 5)

This route is one of the less aesthetic lines on WW1, but worth doing once you have done everything else.

Climb a moderate crack/flake to a ledge with two bolts (the Opening Act anchors), dont belay here. Instead, continue up the right-most of the three extensions from the anchor, continuing up the arete to the right with some fun slaps to a two bolt anchor that is shared with judgement day.

70m rope required to lower.

End of the World

Bouldery, two-bolt extension over the roof at the end of False Idol.

Graven Image

Starts with 5.10 face climbing (with an ocassional stem here and there) up a shear clevage plane bound on the right by a dihedral. After a short traverse left, a very good rest prepares you for the short and steep boulder problem leading to a huge jug. Continue over a final roof and past a few more bolt on more 5.10 climbing to the chains

Slug Lover

This excellent route demands both technique and strength.  Technical moves around the third bolt lead to a no-hands rest in a corner.  Then more technical edging to a powerful crux and a pumpy finish.  Seems harder than the other 12c's here.  This route would be a proud onsight!

Propaganda

The hardest of the old Little Si routes. Begin on Aborigine, then after the second bolt move left to thin moves up a seam and through to a steep headwall, then finishing on Pornstar.

Whore of Babylon

Climb Flatliner to the crux two finger under-cling, skip the clip, and use one of two sequences to gain a tenuous clipping stance up and left.  From here hang on 15 more feet of techy powerful climbing on some of the best Rhinostone on the wall.  Seriously, rock doesn't get more bullet.  At the end of the crux there is a nice rest.  The finish is 12a-ish, but cryptic enough to ruin your redpoint.

Lost Horizons

An extension to Californicator. Once at the finish jug of Califonicator rest up so you can finish on Technorigine.

Californication

Easy 5.10 climbing leads up to the business--a tough, reachy undercling move to the "horn of plenty" and then some tough moves to gain the vertical finish.

Megatherion

Cool, surprisingly clean corner with good stemming, some handjams and fingerlocks, and a couple of cool face moves. Feels like a trad route.

Vudu Guru

From the chains of BLM-7, follow bolts up and left onto a slab.  The guidebook gives this 4 stars; honestly, I would stop at the chains of BLM-7 and rap.  The exposure of the first few bolts is worth a star for sure, but dirty, mossy, slab climbing is all that awaits you after that.  If you do climb this, DO NOT rap back to the chains of BLM-7 as the book suggests.  I did and it was sketchy and sets you up for a huge pendulum swing into the middle of World Wall if you slip.  If you do decide to get on this route, I suggest you rap straight down into the middle of World Wall, and then rap again on the chains of one of the 12's (Rainy Day Woman etc) to the ground.

BLM-8

This is the route that starts in the corner just left of Rainy Day Women.  Work the corner for the first few bolts then tackle the crux bulge.  Once over the bulge, you can either stay in the corner or step left onto the face.  Either way, the holds are all there to the anchors.

Son of Jesus

This is the left-hand extension to

Rainy Day Woman

.  Skip the last bolt on rainy day, and cut left to a bomber rest on a jug.  From here Climb the seemingly blank vertical wall to a small roof which holds the crux move.  Fun, technical climbing up bomber rock.

You could also climb Viagro (12b) to reach the bomber rest.  It would be the same grade, and I think rainy day is better.

Hydrophobia

This surprisingly good route has some of the smallest holds I've pulled on at Little Si-and some of the strangest bolt locations, at least at the beginning. Extended crux sequence with some pretty tough moves leads to airy moves over a roof and then to an anchor. The slick 5.10 runout that used to guard the start has since been tamed with another bolt.

Black Is All We Feel

Shares a start with

The Bad Guy

but breaks right after the second bolt to climb the right-side of the small "amphitheater" to the left of the main wall rising above Launch Ledge. Crimp your way through some fun climbing, then trend a bit left out a roof (turning the lip is the crux of the route).

Hadley's Roof

This is just the first part of "Psychosomatic", so it is the 11b part of the route and ends at the first anchors. Great route that is straightforward and consistent difficulty. Stand on the block and clip the first bolt and then place your feet carefully to boulder over the top to the big ledge, where it continues above on big holds with big moves.

Psycho Wussy

Vertical climbing on sharp crimps and jugs.

Universe (AKA BLM 4)

There are many varations between 5.10a and 5.10d that access the upper pitch. This climb is to the left of a right facing dihedral on the arete. Once you gain the belay keep going up on the arete. The second pitch is clearly the crux at 5.11c with lots of cool moves over a bulge. Hidden holds will stuff most onsight attempts.

Dreaming of a Life of Ease

This route is a great technical stem corner above easier edge climbing.  It is possible to stop at anchors half way up for 12a.  The best part of the route is without a doubt the stem corner above.

Spectacular position when you bust into the stem with nothing below you.

Bust the Rhythm

The easiest of Little Si's 14a's.  Basically, climb californicator into Pornstar.  Satisfying.

Pornification

Start on Psychosomatic to the first anchor. Go up one draw past and move far right to a good hold. From there, go up 5 bolts on a slightly overhanging wall with crimps and big lock offs. It is about 7 feet right of the second part of Psychosomatic (second pitch). At a good crimp, move right to join the Pornstar Traverse right. Get to the slopey block and incut crimp on Pornstar, and finish on Pornstar. Very sustained with an easy start and hard middle section with a heartbreaker finish.

Chicxulub

This is Bust the Rhythm to the first set of anchors.  5.10 climbing moves up to a 12a boulder problem crux up high before finishing on jugs.

Bust the Move

Fun moves up a layback flake and then a pull over a bulge will make you swear it's harder than 5.9.

Opening Act

Near the middle of the main section of WWI, starting off a pointy block.  From the block, clip a bolt and boulder (carefully!) to the big ledge.  The route continues from here, making big moves on big holds to an anchor.  This makes a fun 11b by itself (called Psychowussy) and is a popular warmup.  But keep going.  The route continues up to a rail on the right, then jogs left on slopers to a shake.  Depump a little and fire the crux: a sequence of sidepulls, gastons, and a deadpoint to an edge followed by a toss to a bucket with your feet just above the bolt.  Makes for fun, clean airtime when you miss the throw.

Psychosomatic

Climb Black Ice. At the last jug rest, traverse right and finish on Lost Horizon's crux.

Variation: Stparkle 5.13+. (Start on Vanilla Ice.)

Event Horizon

Extend the extension to Bust a Move to the top of the wall up a black streak. The finish is the redpoint crux.

Dread Lock

A bit of a silly extension to Chronic since it doesn't add any difficulty, just 15 feet of climbing to the next anchor. You might as well just keep going and go for Lizard King.

Lizard Prince

The extension to Son of Jesus that finishes on the anchors of Deluge. You'll climb through one roof and go right under the second one.

Just One of the Boys

Cruise up to a 5.11 roof pull, then more cruising, then a more beta and reach-intensive move pulling through the second roof.  Meet up with the finish of Megatherion at the top.

Sweet Tooth

Line straight up the middle of the face left of Son of Jesus. Shares the first few bolts with Devil's Advocate before shooting straight up the center.

Spent

After the first crux of Technorigine, step left and diagonal up and left past 5 or 6 bolts and back right to an anchor. Tricky, sustained climbing with two distinct cruxes, the hardest at the very end. Can be climbed via Californicator as well, which only makes it better and slightly harder. Easily one of the best lines on the wall.

Pornstar

Tricky, crimpy and balance-intensive climbing over a bulge for 3 bolts bring you to the shared finish with Jug or Not.  Sucker holds galore.

Oedipal Complex

A fun, fairly straightforward route that starts about 30 feet right of

Aborigine

. All the holds are jugs! Follow the bolts up and right. One of the most exciting parts is being lowered after you reach the anchor, since it feels like your belayer is going to lower you right off the ledge....

Reptiles and Amphetamines

This is a logical linkup of some of Little Si's best routes.  It requires good endurance and power.  Climb Californicator --> Porn Star --> just before the Pornstar crux climb to on nice holds to Flatliner; now, simply continue up Lost Horizons. An incredible journey.

Wide World of Fitness

Begins via Reptiles and Amphetamines, or via the 10c corner to the right. The technical crux is likely the steep bulge above the lower starting pitch, which features a few bouldery moves. The climbing is both technical and pumpy throughout, with other cruxy sections, including one that revolves around a hold that possibly gave the route its name. Climbing to the higher anchor instead of ending at the Dr. Evil lowering hooks doesn't add much difficulty, but is fun, airy 5.10/11-, if slightly chossy at the top.

Oval Orifice

This route starts immediately right of Rainy Day and climbs through an small roof and up a moderate low-angle section before coming to a rest just below the meat. Tackle this steep finale' with one of the many variations to chains.

Hang It Out To Dry

This excellent endurance route has perfect rock and lots of good climbing.  Although none of the moves are totally stopper, there is plenty of opportunity to get pumped out of your skull.  Climb

Chronic

until the 6th bolt, then head left to the "typewriter" hold, and try and recover a little for the crux moves off of it.  Luckily there is a good rest on the "dinner plate" hold shortly after the crux.  Then pump it out to the chains on aborigine.

If you are not too pumped, continue up

Technorigine

above.  This makes it 13a, and is called californication.

Californicator

Overhanging, but quite juggy climbing from the mossy ledge up.  A few loose spots and potential ledge-fall if you blow it early on.  Thankfully, the holds are huge throughout.

False Idol

A fun, well-protected route that is great for laps on rainy days or for warming up. On the right side of WWI, starting in a small dihedral capped by a little roof. The crux is near the top, but, as with every other hard move on the route, has a huge rest right below it.

Rainy Day Woman

A linkup similar to Brave New World but with some nice rests. Climb Whore of Babylon to the V10 crux, then move into Pornstar, but hit the crux of Lost Horizons for the finish. Crimptastic, steep, slopey holds and big moves are the order of the day.

New World Order

Combines the lower cruxes of Doctor Evil with the crux of Illness/Extended Illness. Awesome linkup of two classic lines. Probably not a whole lot harder than Doctor Evil but the second crux certainly requires a bit more endurance. As stated below, originally the line was pushed directly up to the crux of Extended Illness, skipping the kneebar rest on Chronic. Although both are logical lines, moving into the kneebar curtails the difficulty a bit.

Extended Evil

Starts with some thin moves up a boulder-like bulge and a single bolt.  Blowing the mantle would result in decking.  Traverse up and right from the ledge, passing jugs.  Continue up the shallow dihedral to a thin move before gaining more jugs.  Traverse into Aborigine at its first set of anchors.

Slaborigine

This extension to Psychosomatic adds a lot of good climbing and a potent crux at the top. After the crux of Psycho, clip the long draw (but not the anchors off to the left). Cop a good rest on the ledge (sitting down invalidates your ascent), then cast off on steep, juggy climbing for about 25 feet. A tough boulder problem right before the anchor provides the crux of the route and some good airtime if you blow it.

Flatliner

Climb the start of either Opening Act or Girls in the Gym to the reach the two-bolt anchor at about midpoint of the climb. Three extensions branch off from the anchors; take the middle of these, casting off immediately onto steep terrain with big moves between sharp crimps, eventually ending on the Judgement Day anchors above. Requires a 70m rope to lower.

PC-7 (Judgement Day Direct)

Climb up to the first bulge.  After a couple puzzling moves, get above the bulge and continue up good holds to where the wall gets steeper.  This is where the fun begins.  Steep climbing on absolutely huge, and sometimes sharp (careful) holds moves you up and left to the anchors.  A good one to get the blood flowing.

Girls in the Gym

Make Viagro a letter grade harder by pulling the roof.

Viagrophobia

The extension of spent up to the top of the wall. Climbs an airy arete. Upper portion is in desperate need of a scrub, straight up moss and lots of lichen. Note the length and plan your rope length/lowering plan appropriately

Totally Spent

The obvious line with fixed draws immediately left of Reptiles.  There is always someone on this, and it's a great climb to play around on during after-work sessions.

Starts with 2 bolts of 5.9 (don't fall or you and your belayer will be really unhappy).  Then the business starts with a funky undercling/mini-dihedral section on slick, techy feet. 3 more clips takes you to an OK rest on the keyboard (Californicator branches left here). Straight up on small crimps and gastons takes you up to the roof and a shake.  Finishes by pulling the roof on OK crimps and up to a burly gaston move that sets you up for clipping the anchor.  The redpoint crux is redpointing the beast (which I haven't).

Chronic

Fun and easy overhanging jug hauling up to a right-moving traverse just above the cave, then thin balance moves to the top.

Disincarnate

Tackling the large roof to the left of Bust a Move, this line is shorter than many of the other hard routes here but it still packs a serious punch. Surprisingly, the roof itself is not the crux. A technical beginning leads through easier climbing up to the roof. Jug haul out the roof until the angle changes, then forge up the difficult boulder problem above. 10-12 moves comprise the technical crux, but the difficulties continue via a battle with some off-balance 5.12 climbing. Finish with some exciting and slightly runout 5.10/11.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in World Wall