Starts low on the rail with heelhook near hands.  Then a powerful gaston move into the main rail.  There's a crimpy little feet off ending that may spit you off as well, but nothing as hard as the start.  If Kim Momb did this thing back in the late 80's as rumored, it was far beyond anything done around here at this time.

Smokey On Fire

A tough crack climb that climbs out two roofs.

Alfred Hitchcock Presents

Although short, it's a fun, crimpy face climb. You could do it with 2 draws and a set of nuts.

Heart Route

An easy start up an unprotected ramp starts feeling a bit spooky as you move onto the face. You could also do a direct start which is protectable with small gear.You'll start out using face holds to pull the roof, then the crack higher up.

The Diagonal

Follow the crack, it doesn't get much more simple than that.

Main Crack

Tree Crack

Start on the Smokey Overhang Crack or Rusty and follow the 3-bolt line over the roof.

Southern Exposure

A good beginner route to feel exposed on an arete.  This is left of the Open Book area.

Pass the roof on the left, then have fun stepping out onto the arete!  Good foot and handholds on the arete.  Follow the arete to the top.  Horizontals provide good, positive protection, but not a recommended first lead only due to trying to protect the first step out right onto the arete above the roof.

No bolts at the top.  Build your own anchor, or walk a long ways back to a tree.

Arete of Fret

This is a mixed route with a thin crux high up. It's delicate face climbing. The crux is pulling over a small roof onto a thin face. It's runout a bit through the crux, but the fall is safe.

Hot Licks

3 bolts then a LONG runout to the top. Start with some long, athletic moves on the arete, then up on the face it's a very thin slab.

Ron's Climb

A good crack climb with a hard roof start.

Strawberry Jam

This route starts in oregon grape looking up at the roof.

Jam and fist/hand crack move off the start.  Follow obvious corner to the top.  Several variations exist, depending on how you want to push out of the corner system.  Would recommend not going towards the arete and save that for a better, more continues arete climb by doing Arete of Fret.

A harder variation, Right Wing Extreme, at the top left exists, if you wish to push yourself a bit harder.

No bolts at the top; need a ~20m rope (or use your rope after leading), or build your own anchor.

Alt Right (and "Extreme Right Wing" variation)

Start standing on the boulder and pull over a roof in the nice hand and fist crack. If the start feels super hard keep fishing for holds. This crack is really good but really short.

Jam Crack

Arguably the  best route at Minne, Dihedral is often TR'd, but is an excellent lead. You'll lieback, jam, stem, crimp and smear up this one.  The Crux is at mid-height, after moving left from a good rest in the corner. sustained from this point. Many consider it hard for the grade.

The Dihedral

To the left of the Smokey Overhang roof (main wall), there are two routes that ascend a bulge and join on the fun, easy slab above. This route is fully bolted for leading. Mad Dog is the route on the right. Positive holds make it easy for the grade and fun.

Mad Dog

Start on the left side of the boulder and traverse to the crack.

Maginot Line

This is a great beginnner route, and a good route for a first trad lead as there are a lot of no-hands stances to use while you fiddle with gear. Y Crack shares anchors with the Heart Route, so you can set up a TR for the kiddos while you get some climbing in. Check out Hot Licks too(to the right), it's a great way to get a good burn in between belaying for your snot-nosed kids.

Y Crack

This worthy two-bolt variation of Dihedral skips the easier stuff up high by moving right onto the face and some tricky, thin moves. I've always wondered why you step right for Step Left...

Step Left of Boston

Start at the base of the face to the left of "Open Book".

This route has great positive ledges at the start that allow good, solid climbing with stances.

Follow the face climbing, with good crack protection, up to a stance.  Choose your poison and bail left for easy climbing, straight up the arete for moderate climbing, or out to the right for harder climbing.

This protects well with gear.

You can anchor off of the Open Book anchors, but it is sort of offset right for top roping.

Open Face

Climb the crack in the big roof. It is rated anywhere from 5.9 to 5.10c.

Smokey Overhang

These routes were put/cleaned up during Covid and rioting approaching the 2020 election.  They do need more cleaning.

This route is on the left side of the segment of rock buttress to the left of the "Open Book" escarpment.

The route climbs an easy angle slab with good pro at the roof.  Move to the left and follow the left trending corner system.  Runner appropriately or you will pay the rope drag tax.

This is a good beginner trad route for placing gear and being safe while learning.

This does not have bolts at the top yet, but a shared set at the top of arete of fret could be very well placed.  I cleaned out some junk for gear, but you will need to set up a TR with trad gear, or will need to walk ~20 meters back to tie off on a tree.

I cleaned this route up as an option to take my kids who are learning to climb.  Good beginner route in general!

Radical Left

To the left of the Smokey Overhang roof (main wall), there are two routes that ascend a bulge and join on the fun, easy slab above. Bolts protect the crux but you'll have to find pro above. Love Bulge is the route on the left and is quite a bit more difficult than Mad Dog.

Love Bulge

This route is to the right of Open Book.  It can be TR'd off of bolts or lead with gear.  A single set of nuts and some small to medium cams protects this well when leading.

The climb is slabby with some ledges.  It follows a good crack that is protectable.  Good stances to place pro from make this a good beginning trad leaders route, but make sure to protect from falling on a ledge.

Beginner's slab crack

Ascend the arete to the right of Dihedral. Powerful moves on the lower part, thin slab above with some delicate footwork on the arete. There are 4 bolts, and a couple possibilities for gear, but this climb rarely sees anything but a toprope. I think it's an under-rated climb- one of the best 10's at Minne! This climb is most fun if you keep your left hand on the arete all the way up, otherwise you end up on Ron's Climb.

Dihedral Arete

Bouldery traverse, then bouldery roof, then techno slab to the chains.

Peter Peckerman

Skip the Peter Peckerman traverse and climb straight up the wall to the chains.  Essentially a V11 boulder problem to easier climbing above.

Peckerman Direct

A face climb with a big roof and a small crimp to pull you over. Crux at the obvious roof.

Screaming Fingers

Skirt the left side of the Smokey Overhang roof and move left to the bolt above the roof on Mad Dog.

Rusty

The climb starts with two small crimps with a solid right heel hook. Move out left to a nice crimp. Stay low as you move to a match and then bump to either a pinch or a 3 finger crimp to the right (the Crux). Finally, grab the jug hold on the very top right and finish with a solid top out.

Huge Georgebanks

The crux is about 20 feet up.  Good hand holds.

Left of main crack

Bat Crack has a bouldery direct start that seems about 10b or c, and you won't get gear in until you're past the hard part.

To keep the 5.9 grade, traverse in fro the right on the big ledge.  Bring a 3" cam for the lead and be prepared for a somewhat difficult placement as you start up the crack. A big nut slots really well here.

The runout that gives Bat Crack a PG rating comes near the top as the crack disappears, but is no harder than 5.7.

Bat Crack

An easy route, at the roof head left to the chains.

Open Book

This is a gear climb with 3 or 4 variations at the top, up to 5.10.

Apprentice Route

A bolted face climb to the right of Bat Crack. Shares the start with Bat Crack, which is kind of bouldery unless you traverse in from the right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall