Thoughtful and technical blunt arete climbing on less than perfect stone.

Follow deep two-finger pockets and sharp edges at the start.  As the route slabs out, the holds get slopey and the movement gets more interesting.

Like other routes on this outcrop, the rock slowly turns more sandy as you go up.  This route deserves way more attention than it gets.

Snarf Victory

This climb is very interesting. I feel like I cheated my way all the way to the final bolt, which felt like an awkward 5.9+, but then got completely shut down going to the anchor. This just may need perfect conditions to execute the all sloper top out, or risk a run in with the tree by using the more featured left side to access the last few decent holds.  Fun, weird climb, that will leave most onsighters scratching their head. Vert/Slab to a tricky bulge finish.

Spinal Tap

While not getting many stars in the latest edition of the RRG guide, apparently this route has cleaned up and makes for another good warmup, or an objective on it's own.  The top 10 feet are the only thing keeping this from being three stars.

Start up a short overhang on good holds, to difficult moves where the wall turns vertical.  Enjoy engaging pocket cramming past several bolts to the top, where the holds blank out, the rock gets more sandy, and a few slightly unpleasant moves take you to the anchor.

Sunday Night Cockfights

Start in a dihedral with a thin hand crack, making easy stemming and layback moves.  Once the left wall begins to lean away pull onto the overhanging main face via a wild traverse and continue up on good holds to the anchors.

Hip to the Jive

Starting from the ledge pull a few hard moves over the ledge on good holds. Then full huge jugs to a ledge just below the anchors.

The Juggernaut

Climb steep crimps to a sidepull above the second bolt. Pull through marginal crimps to a rest at the third bolt, then more sustained, sloping crimps. Good clipping stances. Trend left at the 6th bolt across a crux seam.

Golden Ticket

A long fun line that begins just as you enter the left side of the chocolate factory (when the trail forks take the left side instead of the right which takes you over to oompa and loompa) One of the first climbs you will come to as you gain the cliff band. Starts on large blocks under a roof. Pull through the low crux to find nice long juggy climbing above with a steep finish. Take time to enjoy the large sit down hueco in the center of the climb. Watch for friable rock, recommend stick clipping the first bolt due to possible poor rock conditions. With more travel to clean up some of the choss I think this could be a Red classic, a powerful start with a cruiser finish makes for an incredibly enjoyable way to spend a sunset at the end of the day.

EGBG

Bolted line that wraps around an arete hueco just past second bolt.

Babinski sign

10 feet to the right of Sunday Night Cockfights.  This route has great movement and is well protected, but needs some traffic.  Start out on steep terrain to jugs right of the bolt line.

Throbbing Emotions

This is a crimpy and techy face climb with a no hands rest before the third bolt.  There are a few crimpy moves at the first bolt, some unique movement going to the fourth bolt and a balancy couple of moves to the chains.  First go may seem hard and second go may feel easy.

Crimp My Ride

Shootin' Hot Hugs

A distinct crux sequence early on leads to easier but sustained climbing above.  Those not inclined to use their feet will find a challenge.  Getting to the first bolt is sketchy(R) but in the days of stick clips and small cojones it probably won't matter for most.

A real treat for slab climbers and for those looking for something different!

Willy Wonka

Two bolts of pockets to hands-free stance, then a long rightward-traversing section of 5.8, where the biggest challenge is not Z-clipping. The route earns it;'s grade near the top, where the bolts thin, and the moves lengthen.

Three Stooges

A slightly overhanging crimp line that gets progressively harder until a very thin crux just below the anchor.  Get ready to grab some footholds!

Start on the crack that heads up and right to a decent shake where the crack ends.  From the rest, follow incut crimps for a few bolts then cut right to the arete for a good shake.  A few more long moves on similar crimps set you up below the very thin crux.  With the chains staring you in the face, and your crimp strength fading, imagine you are a dainty butterfly as you pull on nonexistent holds.

This is a great technical route on excellent rock.  Get on it!

The Dainty Butterfly

Has a good amount of loose rock and fragile holds right now but has fun movement.

Mr. P.

The leftmost of the three bolted slab routes right of "End of the Innocence" (5.10b)

Use finesse up the slab with a couple fun mantles and friction climbing up to the chains.

Sugar Rush

Butterface

Shares the start with ABR. Bouldery moves between decent rests. Steep.

Molten

Super enjoyable chimney and squeeze climbing on perfect rock. Climb it in June and enjoy easy pickins' of ripe blackberries along the way!

Easy Pickins

An awesome, a-typical RRG route following a gorgeous slightly overhanging brown/gold streak.  Just enough usable holds, at a choice angle, make for good movement the whole way.  Very crimpy.

Start by following 2 bolts of a left arching crack until it peters out.  Bust the crux move off small, sharp crimps, clip, and make some more long moves on small holds to a flat jug.  Crux over.  Steller face climbing leads past small plates and pockets to a spicy and sequential shakedown at the anchors.

Grade is my best estimate and with a grain of salt...

Bleak December

Start up the dirty crack or walk up and around and start off the ledge. Clip the first bolt then pull a tricky roof on not as good as you would like them to be holds. The rest of the  climb is steep and deep pocket pulling!

Breakin the Law

Start with a couple bolts of large holds which leads to gaining a pair of decent holds at the third bolt. Move straight up to some slopey crimps and make a long move up to either a crimp or all the way to a good hueco. Some people go right at the third bolt instead. Easier? Harder? Off route? You decide.

Continue up with a big slap (dyno for some) to a flat edge. Finish up on better holds to the anchor.

This was originally sandbagged at 12a but seems to have settled more around 12c.

Fatman

This pretty golden wall hosts a technical route, some long reaches, multiple unique cruxes, and just enough holds to make it possible.

Ten feet of easy climbing on mediocre rock leads to good holds below the first bolt. Make a super long reach to a stacked two-finger pocket, and move right along some pockets to reach a poor rest below the first crux. Crimp past a miraculous series of holds on an otherwise blank wall and make a long move to a good but strange pocket. Follow the iron rock protrusions left, and rest up on a large fin sticking out of the wall. Get your feet on these fins and balance past the second crux to a difficult 4th clip and a punchy move to more iron fins. Pumpy edges lead to the chains.

People below 5'8" might find some of the reaches very hard. Hence, it may be 12d for tall folks and 13a for shorties.

Gene Wilder

The big overhanging corner OW right of Gene Wilder and Golden Ticket. Not as hideous as it looks thanks to numerous footholds, stemming stances, and fun turn-around moves.

Strongyloides

Very nice climb, stays dry in a light rain.   Start by climbing up on a flake.   Continue up following pockets and plates to the top.   Crux is at the point where the route starts to turn less steep, it's somewhat sequential.

Oompa

A decent route but not as straight forward as its popular neighbor.  A juggy start quickly leads to a hard/awkward crux that pushes the grade quickly if you miss the sequence. Afterward the climb cuts left around a flake system and eases off a bit but doesn't completely surrender itself.

Mike Teavee

Seldom climbed route on the right side of the wall. Besides a little route finding and some rock that still needs to clean up, this is a worthwhile climb that can be done on either side of the bolt line, though one side will definitely be easier. This is definitely not as good as the rest of the routes on the wall, but fun if you've already done the others.

A.L.F.

If masochistic, burly, slab climbing is your thing, then why are you visiting the chocolate factory? Regardless, this one is for you!

An amazing route that I unfortunately don't have much info on. The Ray Ellington guidebook reads something like "This line will probably shut you down, and probably make you cry". With a description like that you have to get on it, right?

The aggressive start only yields to more aggressive slab, delicate climbing, pinching tiny iron oxide deposits, an amazing technical challenge! The crux for me was either the awkward steep mantle, or clipping bolt 5/6... hate to take a real whip on this guy!

This one definitely reminds you why you love/hate climbing. Its ok if it makes you cry

Butane Junky

Jugs, pockets and pinches up a vertical wall to a slab topout.  The rock is solid, the movement is fun and the bolts are safely spaced.  However, The rock becomes more sandy as the route turns slabby.

This route is still cleaning up, but once it sheds a bit more grit it will be an excellent pitch.

Grandpa Joe

This line ascends the dihedral just right of the previous line. Leave the gear in the car and just climb the amazing bolted line just right which follows the good part of the crack for 25 feet.

Old School Chocolate

Interesting route in the style of its neighbours. The opening sequence is bouldery but precise and not necessarily obvious. The middle section is typical RRG pumpiness, with a confusing choice of pockets ranging from sloppy to great, though if you find yourself trying to pull on bad holds you're probably missing out on a good one somewhere. The roof pulling above is intimidating from the ground but there are good holds available and you can milk the good rest that's just below.

Felt harder than BtL, but the 10+ rating is approximate.

Unknown

The mixed line to the right of Chocolate River. This route starts by ascending a section of rock protected by a flake that takes finger sized gear. As you pull throught the first section and get established in the arching dihedral, the crack that looked okay from the ground kind of peeters out right when the bolts appear. The anchors are guarded by an airy step-up-and-out bulge pull.

right bolted route with tufa like feature at the top

Enkidu

Traverse the roof on heel hooks, bust a tricky crux, the cruise to the top on balancey, continuous moves.

Icebreaker

This is the leftmost bolted route on the vertical wall visible as you approach the cliff. Climb slotted pockets to reach a distinct crux section. Continue up to a short overhanging pockets section just before the chains.

J Rat's Back

A long slab with multiple thin cruxes and a steep finish.

Gently tread up a hollow flake for a few bolts before cutting left across the face and up some zig-zagging cracks to  stance below the first crux.  Balance and crimp through a thin crux and mantle into a body-sized hueco.  Step left out of the hole, and take on the second crux using a poor, slopey pocket before a horizontal break.  The rest of the route steepens, but the moves and holds never get harder than 5.10 to the chains.

Would definitely get another star without the hollow flake.  However, it didn't seem dangerous or loose.  Regardless, pull down, not out, and weight your feet when you are on this section.

Toxicodendron

Fun route near the corner on the right side of the vertical wall. Stick to the left face, using the slab to the right as needed to get through the blank sections.

Gets quite thin at the end, and culminates with a fun suprise to gain the chains.

Nutter Butter

Awesome continuous slopey pockets lead to a huge jug, followed by a boulder problem which can be tackled via more slopers or horrendous crimping. The bottom of this route is absolute perfection, and is some of the best climbing in the red.

Cat's Demise

A pretty route on flawless rock, Wobbler is the ultimate 11+ power endurance test.

Right off the ground, this route is a race to the top on unrelenting edges and pockets.  With no definite crux, and no jugs to shake out, the best strategy is to keep moving.  Try not to throw a wobbler when your endurance fails at the top.

This is a good route, but there is nothing unique or fantastic about the moves, aesthetic, or rock.

Might want to avoid if it's in the sun.

Wobbler

Start a bit right of the bolt line and scramble up a few feet before traversing straight left under the first bolt for some tough moves right away. Move up through varied and interesting climbing involving crimps, underclings, and slopers.

Climactic Crush

Start the same as for Theobroma but trend up and right to a no hands rest at the break. Make a few difficult pulls to get over the roof and navigate the face to the anchors. Tough to read with no chalk up high. Originally graded 11d but consensus seems like 12a.

Chocolate Myotis

This starts on a mini boulder problem up a crimp seam leading to a dead point to a small slot that is better than it looks. Then the line cuts over to the far right set of perma draws and onto two large obvious shelves. Get some good shakes before a boulder that leads to a rest over a small bulge. One of the holds right after the rest looks like it could break so pay attention. Then grab a few sloppy jugs before firing through a pumpy section that leads to good rests all the way to the anchors.

Divine Punishment

Pleasant climbing on crimps in the first half. A large ledge provides good resting opportunity. The upper headwall is pumpy and steep, but consists mostly of great holds.

The Giant Peach

As of 3/18, seemed like this route had not been climbed since the first ascent. Could be a cool route if cleaned up, but the burly layback down low takes you into brittle rock and licheny, sandy slab above, with no apparent anchors. There are trees further up the slab (80ft?) but I traversed to anchors of Sugar Rush and lowered from there.

End of Innocence

The sister route to

Oompa

.  Just as fun but steeper and more sequential.

Good jugs and positive holds get you up to the second bolt. Take time to read the holds above before heading through bolts 3 and 4. Bust through the sequential crux on cool holds to even cooler holds above and lower angle climbing to the anchor.

Loompa

Climb through some ledges and loose blocks to a large ledge. From here, clean as many spiders and webs from above you as possible, and then launch into a fun sustained series of stems or slot chimney bodies smears, however you like it. Culminates with a cool pull out right to the anchors. Watch out for rope drag at the end.

Through the Looking Glass

This route starts on good holds, but quickly transitions to crimping on a mild overhang. There are few good resting opportunities before the toughest crimping towards the top. Consistently difficult until you are clipped into the chains.

Stalker

A tough pull or two down low leads to a good stance at the base of the steep overhang. Step up and power through the roof on mostly good holds to the anchor.

Twinkie's Little Sister

Determine which line of chalked holds you want to start on and head up on mostly good holds.  Towards the top a few longer reaches lead to a difficult clip at the anchors.

One Side Makes You Taller

This short, attractive route offers good rock, and steep pockets with a crux near the top.

Good holds, and fun moves lead to a good rest at mid-height.  Punch it through a bunch of slopey edges and pockets to better holds below the anchors.

Would be a classic if it was a bit longer.

Grumpalump

Sandy start leads to better rock with nice pockets and a crux at the top.

Naked

Worth doing if J Rat’s Back is swarmed. Difficult movement between crimps and pockets midway through the route leads to a no hands rest. Finish up on a bit easier ground, through a bit of lichen.  More traffic will help this route!

Keepin it Real

Climb to the third bolt and get in a one good last shake before the pumpy battle that goes pretty much to the chains. From the last good hold at the third bolt, climb through pump on crimps and the occasional pocket to a mini rest where you make a double clip. Get anything back if you can, then continue onto holds that are just slightly better and fight until you get over the bulge. At the last bolt things ease up a bit and you can shake out on a good slopping hold. Then off to the anchors. This route doesn’t have a crux but make sure you have endurance. Memorizing the movement is key.

Silky Smooth

Climbs the overhanging dihedral left of the 5.10 buttress. Scramble up to the large ledge to belay. Climb up the overhanging thin-hands crack onto the vertical wall above. Enjoy the rest in the huge hueco and continue up the offwidth crack with good face holds.

The Andy Man Can

A short and bouldery line that mixes a couple slopey edges with crimps and big moves. Get ready to try hard and save something for the long moves at the end of the route right before the anchor. There are a bunch of different ways to do every sequence on this route. Enjoy!

Fatface

Begins with some bulge wrestling to reach the less-demanding face above.

Squirrelworker

This extremely unique route is split into two very distinct sections.  The first 40 feet, which has a very traditional feel, follows a huge flake up to a large hole where you will find a standing no-hands rest.  Boulder over a small bulge and sprint past sustained pockets and edges to the top.

Rumor has it the huge flake is reinforced so beware.  It didn't seem dangerous to me.

Snozzberries

Over heard: "This route is not the "typical" Red River over-hanging enduro fest, its great!" Three cruxes on the arête lower on the route will keep you thinking and fully engaged! Technical slab\face higher up will ensure that you do not lose your focus prior to reaching the anchors!

Team Tough on Tour

This is a good entry-level 13c that might suit a boulder with a smidge of endurance.

Scramble up to a ledge and climb a dirty pillar to the base of a steep wall that is sparsely peppered with scoops, pockets and edges .

Delicately establish on the steep face, then boulder past a sustained V8 while stopping to make a few tough clips, then pull onto a large shelf at mid height.

Make a few moves to gain a rail, then bear down on some small, delicate crimps which lead up and right to a huge jug.  A final dynamic move gains better holds and the chains.

Since this is a newer route, things are still cleaning up.  Especially the second half.

Buttercup

Begin with easy climbing up a slab to reach the overhanging headwall.  Take a deep breath, shake, chalk, and pull on slopers, side pulls, and the occasional jug for 30 feet of sustained pumpy climbing.  A surprise move awaits before the chains.

Malice

Follow the wall left of Peaches and Cream for about 100 yards. Begin on a reachy mantel start and then climb a technical slabby face to a finish over a bulge. 50 feet, 5 bolts, rap chains Does not stay dry

Chocolate River

Begin through easy terrain up to a stance in a hueco beside the crack. Watch out for some flexing holds pulling into the hueco. Boulder out left on the crack, primarily using it as a face hold. A thank God jug appears 3/4 of the way through the crack, and from here, go straight up. The guidebook indicates going all the way to the end of the crack, then traversing right. This way seems harder, harder to protect, and more contrived. From the jug, it is possible to move straight up through face holds and enjoyable climbing. This route will be much better once all the friable holds have been kicked off, as I managed to remove several footholds both times on the route.

Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles)

Start up the low angle arete past a few holds that look like they may break.  After the start enjoy a relaxing romp past a few thought provoking sections.  The crux awaits at the top with various ways of getting to and clipping the anchors.

Wonkaholic

Robotic Thumb

12c start to a V9 boulder problem finishing in a long dyno to a jug. Next, a series of tough crimps and lockoffs take you a reachy crux followed by tough pockets and more crimps.

Pure Imagination

Wide offwidth to roof crux. Pull crux and climb 30 ft of good hand crack.

Fickelgruber

Short and powerful climbing leads to a technical delicate finale.

Kentucky Grape Vine

A fun low-angle route.  Slightly more technical than it's neighbor of the same grade, Chocolate River.

Augustus Gloop

A bouldery start with great moves to come. Don't expect a cruise for the grade.

Eternal Fire

Limbic System

Shares start with Molten and Divine Punishment, but pulls left along the edge of the large hueco.  Unfortunately often wet.

Nice pockets and edges with a distinct section in the middle that will have you scratching your head.

Grandma Josephine

This well-chalked, eye-catching line sits in a small, secluded cove above Oompa and Looma.  With a nice mix of face and layback moves this route will make you think.

A challenging sequence at the first bolt on small edges get you over the initial bulge to a good rest below the right-leaning flake.  Layback past progressively worse holds and feet until you can move left to pockets on the face.  Keep moving up and eventually the pockets turn into jugs just below the anchors.

Great rock, moves, and position.

Scarlet Scorchdropper

This route shares the start with Malice before heading up and right on the overhang. It's not super obvious when to break away from the holds on Malice so pick your own adventure. Head through a few bolts of tough climbing before it eases up to the chains.

Hookah

A few easy moves off the ground get you setup for thinner crimps and balancy moves higher up. Not as steep as

Oompa

or Loompa and more technical.

The Glass Elevator

Pull through fun moves to good rests, then burst through the tufa!

Gilgamesh

This is the strikingly beautiful, left-leaning dihedral about 50 feet right of Loompa.  The route basically breaks down to a 12a to a hard V6 boulder problem protected by reasonable but slightly tricky gear.

Begin below a single bolt about 10 feet left of the corner.  Make long but easy face moves past the bolt and reach right into the very wide crack.  Jam your torso into the crack and worm and lieback your way to some good jugs and a leg-wrap rest.  The crack starts to pinch off a bit but some large angular features and the occasional fingerlock or pocket provide just enough to keep things reasonable.

About 60 feet up, the good holds disappear and the dihedral steepens.  Work a wide stem and make use of the small tips crack, and some nice pockets around a blunt arete to reach a final, decent fingerlock rest.  Set up on two more tips crimps and spring for a huge jug just above the anchors.

Charlie

Surmount a sandy ledge to take on some very cool (and possibly reachy) moves through the next couple bolts. The 2nd to last draw is quite hard to hang / clip since the holds are way out right. Do a slightly sketchy traverse left around the arete and head up to the anchor. This route would be much better if the anchor and last 2 bolts were moved to the right.

Veruca Salt

Pull through an awkward couple of moves on good crimps to an undercling. Then follow sinker pockets to a ledge. Pull two roofs after the ledge and clip the anchors.

Theobroma

Tackle a boulder problem start to a small roof, hand traverse right onto the tall face above.

For Your Health

Share the start with Silky, but clip the right bolt.  Boulder thru the start to the large Hueco system and pull the initial crux a difficult move off undercling pinches to good holds.  Shake out and continue up the overhanging face for a long ways with a harder section towards the top.

Atomic Fireballs

A future classic when it becomes cleaner. Solid climbing between great rests, has a little bit of everything.

Swedish Fish

Start on a large undercling rail. Hit a good horizontal ledge, and work feet to hit the top.

Perfect Puzzle

Loverface

This classic route exemplifies RRG jug hauling.  With no hard moves for the grade, overhanging over 40 feet and traversing over 50 feet to the right, this long line is all about controlling the pump.  I've heard it called the "40 oz of Justice" of the Chocolate Factory & "Easy Rider's" big brother, and these seemed like accurate descriptions.

Start off a small stack of cheater stones and climb thru sandy holds and a few wet holds in a right facing corner.  Traversing rightwards climb thru the first ledge system to a final shake, before the sustained overhanging face.  Crimp your way thru about 6 bolts to a good rest on the left side of the hueco.  (Currently a sit down rest hasn't been excavated here, but it may appear in the future.)  Rest up and pull hard moves with another wet hold to get over the roof.  Pump your way thru more crimps and pockets to a hard clip (sometimes skipped) and the crux.  Pull on a few smaller holds to a good rest and easier but still pumpy (and a lot of rightwards traversing) to the anchors.

Grade feels pretty stiff for 13a, and might well be 13b.  Probably a bit harder than BOHICA.  Could continue to get harder as it cleans up.

Death by Chocolate

The long and winding arete just right of Loompa. Several technical cruxes with good rests between.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chocolate Factory