P1 (5.6R 80ft): Run out slab, anchors at top - can easily be set up on top rope by leading Family Feud.

P2 (5.7 90ft): (per guide book) Follow large but dirty jugs beginning right of the anchor.

Dirty Jugs

A fun corner with a wide crack. The crux is moving out of the crack under the roof at the top. From there it is a fairly easy run to the bolts below pitch 2 of Dirty Jugs.

Family Wall Corner

Great sport route with a small run out section where you could place one or two small pieces. I've climbed the run out section multiple times and never placed any gear. Good mantle moves and some easy slab.

Family Feud

Climb It's Good to be King. From the ledge on top, clip the bolt just over the roof and pull over. Once above it, enjoy easier, but probably dirty, climbing straight up the face, eventually angling left to the second pitch anchors of Weight and Balance Check.

Descend via Weight and Balance Check. A single 70m rope will not reach the anchors on It's Good to be King.

British Airways

Bring your boulder game for this one. Hard jump moves to get started and pretty on you for the first 30 feet then backs off up the casual face into the left facing corner to a bolted anchor.

Direct Descendents

A short, moderate, interesting face climb that  stays engaging to the anchor. Probably 8+ or 9-.

Crimp, mantel and high-step past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to an anchor at 45'.

Makes a great warmup for other routes in the area.

Trick or Feet

This climb skirts left of the big roof that sits above the "Good to be King" buttress. Clamber up the left corner of the "King" buttress. then start slicing left to get under the left side of the roof. You'll see a beautiful corner that will bring you up and around to the top of the roof structure.

This corner is awesome. It's got great positive finger locks, and is slightly steep. The grade stays 5.7 because of all the feet on the face to the left.

Surmount the corner and stand tall on top of the roof structure, on a ledge with pro (enough to build an anchor). **

The anchor about 20 feet above this point has been stripped

.** The guide book says the anchor is there, but it's not, someone stripped it. If you don't build an anchor at the top of the corner, you are screwed, because the face above this point is weird run out with no pro.

Cooter Bug is therefore: a) a two pitch 5.8 climb, going up/left to join with Weight and Balance Check; or b) the climb heads left to a rappel tree before you pull the best moves, which means it's not even a climb really.

Not sure what to say, except that people ought to know the anchor is gone. It was pretty dicey downclimbing from the stipped bolts with only a manky TCU to protect me back to the ledge.

Cooter Bug

This route has been TRed many times I'm sure. However , another lead route on this wall is welcome. The name comes from the fact its on Family Wall and that the opening move (crux) will be argued be all climbers, Dad may say it's barely a 6 , Mom may say "Oh it's a hard 7 alright" and the kids will have to figure out an extra move or 2 to make the reach. Obviously, height is an issue here. Bolts are placed so a 5.6 leader will feel comfortable with an easy runout at the top.

Good route that could use some traffic to keep the vines and blackberries from taking it over down low. Start up the nice slab passing bolts. The angle lessens for a bit till you reach the large flake. Climb left side of flake, over bulge, and up to headwall. Climb sculpted headwall following gear and bolts till you can step left to a left raising ramp that leads to a nice small ledge, natural belay here. Two options for pitch two: 1) Go straight up off the belay through the small roof to the next large ledge (this pitch was probably done before but I can't find any documented ascents). Option 2) Traverse left under the roof system till it turns to a left facing corner. Follow the corner to the ledge. Bolted anchor, takes two raps to reach ground if using one 70m rope.

Stepchild

Climb sculpted mossy rock to bolts and past a couple slab moves. Get some small gear then traverse left on easy but runout terrain then straight up passing great gear, a bolt, and to the anchors. Much cleaner than it looks but probably not a bad idea to brush the holds a little.

Jury Duty

Good intro into leading sport. Well trafficked and easily accessible.

Family Sport

This is a short crack and face climb on the slab just left of the main wall. The crux is in the crack halfway up.

It's Good to be King

Fun slab climbing with no gear until about the height of the 2nd bolt on Family Sport. Around there find one or maybe two very small microcam placements. Continue almost to the tree, more microcams, then head left to the Sport anchor. Crux is a mantle right off the ground. Slightly easier than Family Sport.

Unknown clean streak

Pull the sweet steep face and enter the groove. Follow the groove until you can exit onto the face. Pull some balancey moves through a mantle moving left a little then up the nice slab. Get good pro out left before the last couple moves up the short vertical wall to a bolted  anchor.

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Protection

Routes in Family Wall