Smoke-a-Bowl

This excellent B. G. route begins on a face just below a left arching seam to the right of "More Funky Than Junky" (5.10a). Difficult moves past a bolt gain the seam. Continue up the seam and face with very technical moves past three more bolts, a fixed pin, and supplemental gear.

The Roadrunner

Climb the arête to the left of

Poodlesby

, ultimately joining

Poodlesby

above the ceiling.

Man's Best Friend

Warning: this route includes a 30 foot runout, with occasional 5.6 or 5.7 moves.  This runout starts where the thin crack runs out, about 35 feet off the deck.  A climber falling from the upper part of this section could easily end up decking out after 50-60 feet.

Okay, now that I've said that, I actually had fun on this route.  It's likely to be open, even when adjacent routes are queued up.  The thin crack is quite enjoyable 5.8+, and protects adequately.  And the runout is sure to make you forget whatever else is on your mind.

Second warning: towards the top of the runout, pay careful attention to folks descending from the rappel station above Poodlesby.

Obligatory favorite story: so there I am, 60 feet off the deck, with my last piece 25 feet below me.  A party of four is rapping past me, and I'm hanging out waiting for them to clear the way so I can proceed towards what I hope will be a solid placement.  The last rappeller doesn't see me until the last minute, and is startled by my presence here on the rap route.  She asks how I'm doing, to which I reply "I'm fine; just don't kick me."  From below, my belayer yells up "Did you say 'take'?"  I'm sure that folks as far away as the Hidden Valley Campground looked up and wondered who was yelling "NO" at the top of their lungs, with terror in their voice.  Fortunately, my belayer did NOT pull me to the ground, and we finished the climb without incident.

Such a Poodle

First piece (piton) is pretty high up but good ledges get you there. Once there, pull some strenuous moves past three bolts.

Horn Dog

This route is the obvious crack to the right of "Golden Years". You start off a block into a right facing corner. My advice here is to place your pro then layback the crack. Near the top, traverse right under an overhang then up again. Surmount the overhang at the top. Beginning this route via "Golden Years" is more interesting. One more thing, the overhang at the top is no more than 5.4; however, one must have the usual five senses.

Feltonian Physics

Start up the hollow-sounding expando flake to gain the main crack above.  After regaining composure, continue on 5.8 terrain that sucks up nuts until it is possible to cut up and out left onto steeper ground.  This is the crux, and protects well with a .75 size cam. Pull through exciting and exposed crux and traverse left to easier ground.  Gear anchor.  To descend, walk to climber's right and rap from farther set of bolt anchors.

Overseer

This is a high quality slab climb between Feltoneon Physics and Prepackaged.

Start just right of Feltoneon Physics and head up and right to the arete of Prepackaged, then move left and climb directly up the slab, joining Feltoneon Physics to finish.

Gift Wrapped

This excellent route climbs the rightward diagonaling hand crack just to the right of Feltoneon Physics. Bring your guns for this sustained pitch of quality stone and great gear placement. Although the crux may be in the lower portion of the route, the ensuing pump will make the finish a challenge as well. Descend via standard rap anchors abeam White Lightning. Enjoy!

Prepackaged

Go up the ramp past the start of Roadrunner to get to the bottom of the huge dihedral roof.  Jam up into the underside and outward across to the lip, then up and over.  Continue to the top before transferring onto the right side main face to finish at the bolted rap anchor of Roadrunner.  Lots of loose choss inside the dihedral crack.  Beware of thin fins of rock inside that a placed cams could break and thereby cause it to blow.  The top of the dihedral widens to loose fists, so a #4 might help some feel more comfortable with the finish.

More Funky Than Junky

This route starts just left of Overseer and goes up and left at the roof.  After the roof you go straight up the crack to the top to set up an anchor.You can protect the crux at the roof by sticking a #4 way up in the crack.  We removed the cam after pulling the crux to reduce rope drag.The pro is good on this climb, but everything sounds hollow.  Nothing broke for us and I am a 200lb climber, so it is probably pretty solid.I gave it a star because I thought the crux was fun, bouldery and committing.Rap off right at the same rap anchors you use for White Lightning.

Funky Dung

An improvement over the regular route that climbs a delicate thin crack and flake system with decent gear and higher joins the regular route for it's thrilling roof finish.

Due to the thin protection down low this is best led by those comfortable at the grade.

Overseer Direct

This was the first of the many Poodle routes in Joshua Tree, and what it all means...well who knows, but this is a fabulous route.

The lower (crux) section of the route is characterized by face climbing with small wires for pro. Not your ordinary clip-up, it makes you question how far you want to go off that last piece; higher, the difficulty eases until a steeper section is encountered at the top.

To descend rap off with two ropes from bolts nearby or head (climber's) right to a 2 bolt rap anchor atop The Importance of Being Ernest (80' rappel).

As an alternative there are several ways to scramble/down climb as well.

Poodles are People Too

Climb a left facing corner system past an oak tree and over a bulge and higher finish in the center of three cracks.

Merry-go-Round Broke Down

This route climbs a crack past the right end of a small roof, then meanders a bit as it goes on to the top.  It is a very nice mixed face and crack climb.

Coyote Bait

This is the steep slab to an overhang just right of Prepackaged.

Climb a face of silver rock past 3 bolts (11+) on creaky plates, then power through an overhang at the fourth bolt.

The Sun Also Rises

Fun face climb up the arete between Overseer Direct Start and Dung Fu.

The Old Man and the Arete

Climb the classic crack straight up, moving slightly left near the top. Rap from anchors 20 feet right of the finish - 120 foot rap! or walk right and rap from anchors atop The Importance of Being Ernest with one rope - 75 feet.

This is a great climb at a wall with many fine crack routes. Everyone should do this climb at least once as it is a good introduction to crack climbing and Joshua Tree in general.

White Lightning

This route is to the left of "Feltoneon Physics". Look for the bolt about fifteen feet up. After reaching the bolt, move right and up to enter the crack on "Feltoneon Physics". Continue up FP. This is an excellent route that I regret I'd not climbed before. You'll need your puny wires to protect the moves to the bolt. Further, it's a bit decomposed below the bolt so don't yank off any of those great looking holds. Be sure to finish with the overhang at the top; it's tricky but interesting. If you're a wuss, you can bypass it to the right; in which case, you'll feel dissatisfied with yourself and have many sleepless nights nagged by low self-regard.

Golden Years

Start in the same spot as

Ant Farm

, at the right end of a large overlap/arch. There is a large, slightly tilted boulder that forms a convenient starting point at the base of the climb.

Climb out left along the underside of the overlap/arch to the middle. Make a long reach past the ceiling to a flake (crux). Follow the crack/flake up and left to the top.

Sea Monkeys

This route begins in the narrow crack a few feet to the right of Dung Fu and meanders up the face between that route and White Lightning. There's one lonely bolt about halfway up that you'll be most grateful for, assuming you don't detatch one of the tired, old flakes you must pull on to attain the bolt. If you do remove one of the lower flakes, you will be divided in twain; and that will put a pall on the rest of day for your companions. The pro is somewhat rare and marginal; the face is gritty; the runouts exciting and memorable. After negotiating the final crack near the top--good pro here; finish directly up 5.8 friction. Don't spoil things at this point and desperately grasp for the upper crack on White Lightning. Do the honorable thing. Here comes the good part: you'll never have to lead this route again because none of your buds will dare to ask you.

Pig in Heat

This nice route is ~200 left of Overseer. It is immediately left of a bolted face climb called Horn Dog that starts with a fixed piton.

Climb up steep flakes, over a small bush, and into a beautiful left-facing dihedral with brown patina on it's right face.

Down climb to the climber's left for the descent.

Ant Farm

Go up fin to left of Funky Dung, then crossing that route after roof and finish up face.

Hernie, Hernie, Hernie

Start in right facing corner to left of Coyote Bait, go over roof than up face to another small roof.

Poodlesby

An OK route that is worth doing once.  The rock quality is a little suspect, but the ease of access and descent make it worthwhile if Hemingway is crawling with folks.  A short 5.7 crack leads to a roof & arete.  Clip the bolt on the face to the left (not the bolt to the right, as that's for

Smoke-a-Bowl

), and then climb the bolted face and arete to the top. The crux is the move right past the first bolt.

Toproping

The Roadrunner

(11c) would be a very worthwhile diversion after climbing this route.

Rock Wren

This route is the small right facing dihedral/ big crack just to the left of Pigs in Heat, which makes it two routes to the left of White Lightnig. A good alternative when waiting for White Lighting, as it is the same grade, however the climbing here is more varied and less straight forward.  It is bascially the next big crack to the left of While Lightning, the one that opens up to a wide chimney about 2/3 the way up.

Start up the right facing dihedral/crack and place bomber gear.  Make a few delicate face moves (7) and get up into the chimney.  This looks intimidating, but don't worry, you can do it.  Move towards the rear of the chimney, and begin up it. Place a small cam if you want near the back as you move up.  The moves are supringly good.  Use your feet and chimney!!!  Move up and out to the left where you should be able to place a #3 cam to ease the mind.  Move up past a tree, and into another chimney.  I went up the the right out of this, or you can go underneath and then up.  (watch rope drag!!).  You can belay from the ledge on top (a bit to the right) and do the double rope rap above and right of White Lightning.  The varied climbing here will toughen you up and make White Lightning easier, and also get you in a Chimney while you wait for the classic.  Not a bad climb here!

Dung Fu

"Joshua Tree National Park (formed as a Monument in 1936, and designated National Park
 status in 1994) has long enjoyed a reputation as a world-class climbing
 mecca. For many decades climbers from around the world have come to 
experience its steep cracks, exposed slabs, and huge granite domes."

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)