Wide Die

Dago's Dilemma

Good faces to roof, clear right side at piton and continue in shallow chute, then finger crack to top.

This small granite crag is near Big Pine Flat, south of El Oso FR422. It probably has a different name, as when we climbed here, there were already two established bolted face climbs.

**Location**: From FR143, instead of turning right for the Lone Pine Saddle TH (Brown's Peak access), continue left (north) on FR422 (Pigeon Springs Road) for several miles. Turn left at the first fork (right descends El Oso FR422 to SR188). After passing the first major saddle, there's parking down the hill on the right (northeast) at a camp. Cross the road, southwest up and over a short, broad saddle. Continue down and traverse right (southwest) for ~¼ mile to the bluff.

The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) is an accredited 501(c)(3) organization. It was created to preserve the safety and integrity of fixed protection throughout central Arizona. Since its creation, the CABRP has replaced hundreds of worn and aged lead bolts and anchors. The fixed anchors used to create most of the sport climbs in the US are made of non-stainless steel. As such, they are subject to corrosion that weakens the anchors holding power. The non-stainless steel bolts throughout central Arizona have been exposed to environmental factors since the first day they were placed. All told, there are approximately 2,755 total routes throughout central Arizona. Working with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), CABRP is placing stainless steel glue-in bolts and stainless steel expansion anchors specifically designed for the rigors of our sport. CABRP requests that all climbers establishing new routes use modern, stainless steel equipment. CABRP recognizes that this makes establishing a new route more expensive, but it is also the responsible way to protect future climbers and the precious resource that is our rock walls. The Pond: (All glue-ins) Date Rape 5.7 (Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Easy Pool &amp; Dead Pool (shared Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Atlantis: (All glue-ins) South Wall Sir Charles - 5.10 Mondo Freako - 5.7 G-String - 5.8 Mickey Mouse - 5.7 Direct Start - 5.11b See you try, see you fail - 5.11b Ali Cat - 5.7 (anchors only) Neptune - 5.10 (pitch 2 anchors and 1st 3 route bolts) KGB - 5.10 Giggling Marlin - 5.9 McDowell's: (Stainless steel 1/2' x 3' bolts, stainless steel hangers) Hawk Boulder Hawk - 5.7 PG13 Energizer - 5.8 Gripple Variation - 5.10R Rosetta Stone Face Value - 5.6 Susan's Stroll - 5.3 (anchors) Brazilian Tenant Farmers - 5.5 Easy Street - 5.1 Arrowhead Arrowhead - 5.8 Hog Heaven Pissed off - 5.8 Tumbling Dice Tumbling Dice - 5.10 Gardeners Wall Hanging Gardens - 5.5 (1st and 2nd pitch anchors) The Phantom – 5.7 Electric Lady Land – 5.10 Phantom of the Opera – 5.10 Parental Guidance – 5.9 Renaissance Direct – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Battling Fear – 5.10 Fearless Leader – 5.10 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Snattlerake Dance – 5.5 Bruisin &amp; Cruisin – 5.5 Lickety Split – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) For Cryin’ out loud – 5.10 LITTLE GRANITE MOUNTAIN: Mogul Wall: Chet’s Arete – 5.8 S&amp;M – 5.9 Moguls – 5.9 Made in the shade – 5.10 Sleeping Cactus: Greg’s &amp; Al’s Excellent Adventure – 5.9 Chasm View – 5.10 The Bickerson’s Dirty Habits – 5.9 Left Face – 5.10 The Loaf: Wimpy – 5.8R Young Monkeys – 5.7 Blow Fly’s last ride – 5.10 “A” Crack – 5.10 Dike Walk – 5.10 Gender Blender – 5.10 Lost Bandana Wall: Dueling Hammers – 5.6 Family Affair – 5.7 Seemingly Useless – 5.7 (anchors) Loosy Loose – 5.11 Lawless &amp; Free – 5.9 Spectrum – 5.7 (anchors) Unknown route – 5.10 Limbo – 5.6 The Cone: Three Dopes on a Rope – 5.4 Sideshow – 5.6 Kate’s Fault – 5.9 Unknown – 5.10 Pasta Slab: Half Measure – 5.4 Full Measure – 5.4 Problem Dog – 5.3 Lower Devils Canyon: Glue in’s The Totem Pole - 5.10c/d Is there an area that is need of new hardware? Copyright © 2022 Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program - All Rights Reserved.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Bear Bluff