Calderone Slab

A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and All That Jazz

Boomerang

Hangman

Acute Angle Var.

Plumb Line

Filthy Garbage

Gravity's Rainbow

Euphorbia

Below and slightly east of the

The Thumb

is a small, slightly triangular wall leaning just shy of vertical.  Splitting this wall is a thin fingertips-to-thin-hands crack which begged ascent pre-1968 when Mayor Ted aided it and named it Plumb Line.

Today, it's a classic, steep finger crack which despite it's lengthy approach is a must do (and one which I do at least once a year for grins).  Follow the approach description under The Thumb. Gather your less-than-1.5" pro, and prep for an entertaining climb.

Begin right at the base of the crack, and attain a stance right below the steepest part of the crack.  Place a piece as high as you can, and then work slightly left of the crack for two moves, and then back directly into the crack (If you choose the Acute Angle Variation -  5.9, this is where you'll joining the crack).  Continue up the ever-widening crack to the relatively recent two-bolt belay.

When I first did this (see the "action photos") the tree at the top was the belay anchor and there was still a bush growing at the top of the crux. Now there are two glue-ins. The last 15' warrant tape if you're as wimpy as I am.

Description

Routes in Plumb Line Gully