Bolts protect the bottom cruxy moves, then continue up sparse crack systems to gain the crux transition into the upper portion of

New River Gunks

.

Unbelievably fun moves up the bottom part, and perfect vertical hard crack climbing above.

Super-fun, this route deserves more attention.

Junk Yard Dog

Climb starts immediatly left of right facing arete and

J.Y.D.

Technical and interesting moves and protection denote the route's lower half while the upper half's mini-roof gives this climb its 3rd star and its + rating

New River Gunks

Awesome climb, corner to layback to roof/corner to layback

Enduro-crux with solid placements all the way up!

This route has a bad habit of eating gear, so be careful with your placements so they don't become fixed gear!

Four Sheets to the Wind

Start on fairly overhanging rock to reach a stance.  After about 10 Ft, the angle lessens.  Continue up and trend right to reach a large hueco.  Head back left and up to finish.  This route is fairly dirty, especially near the top.  A pretty solid lead for the onsight, tricky sequences above your gear.

Churning in the Huecos

Another scrap left over after all these years. This one has a direct start on 5.13 razors, but I'll leave that for the next intrepid and motivated person.

The name is an homage to the Captain America legacy. As a comic book nerd, Cap is one of my favorites and his relationship with Sam Wilson, the new Cap, has always delighted me. I watched an episode of "The Falcon and The Winter Soldier" the night before completing the route, so the theme was on my mind. Those of you who have seen the "Captain America; The Winter Soldier" film will recall that as Steve Rogers laps Sam multiple times on an early-morning run in the beginning of the film, he says this catch phrase each time, culminating in a hilarious exchange. And when all the Avengers re-emerge in "Avengers; End Game", the phrase is spoken again. Watching that scene on opening night of the movie was one of the top cinematic experiences of my life. The route also takes a HARD left to begin with, so I found the name fitting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UGu2sRmSHI

Start as for Rhododenema, but rail out left on the horizontal almost to its end after 30-ish feet. I chose not to place any gear on this section, and if you do you'll likely want double ropes. You'll see what I mean.

At the end of the traverse, place a couple of good pieces and launch upward over the bulge through a crimpy boulder problem that involves a couple of unique holds. After this you'll find a rest, then more super fun 5.10 through and above the obvious crack feature to the top, where you'll need to arrange your own anchor. I used a static line and draped a master point over the edge.

On Your Left

Hopefully some folks who stumble upon this will be old/savvy enough to remember the Nike commercials from BITD with Bo Jackson, one of history's greatest athletes. One thing for sure; Bo knew his sports.

This route has some awesome features, including one of the coolest iron deposits I've seen, but as first ascents go it's another scrap; short and to the point. The climbing is mostly easy until the top of the flake, where one will encounter a slightly funky mantle. This sets you up for the crux, which is above your hopefully-good gear. I'm pretty sure the massive flake is sturdy but I never truly tested it. The boulder problem above is what the route boils down to. Once complete, you get good gear again before the final boulder problem to the ledge. At the top there is a rhodo you can sling before shuffling over and up to the "V-Slot" anchor.

Most of us found the slimpers to be condition-dependent. The right conditions will equate to an easier route. The wrong conditions will likely equal desperation.

Bo Knows

Stacking hands sound like fun? How about knee jams and arm bars? Then this is the route for you.

Often Toproped.

The Contortionist

Begin in a corner formed by a thin chimney.  Utilize chimney technique or jam your way up the dihedral past a polished slab to more comfortable jams and stemming stances as you move up.

Jumping Jack Flash

Okay climbing, hardest moves are lower on the route. The entire route needs a good bit of gardening. A nice runoff runnel characterizes the top half of this route.

Crack Sap

Though often overlooked (I did for years), this route is enjoyable and fun! A nice 5.9 trad lead. Climb, chimney, and jam varying-width crack through a couple slots to the top. (Arm-bars may be used, but are not mandatory.) Good position(s), nice variety, occasional jugs.

Oh yeah, be sure to "Ride the Rock Horse" near the top!

V-Slot

Burly, committing start. Cruise the crack, power directly through roof/flare (crux 2), finish. Be ready to jam!  Mostly hands, some fingers. Also, a few nicely-placed, positive edges. Good rests when needed.

Stuck In Another Dimension

Follow the finger crack up the slab until you reach a stance.  Follow small holds utilizing balance to reach a jug.  Pull up to a comfy ledge. Follow face climbing on positive horizontals until you reach the anchor.

Team Jesus

Start the in thin crack between Enteruptus and Four Sheets and follow it up and right and then back left a little.

A pretty bad squeeze job and the crux comes in as the traverse back into Enteruptus.

Scott's Turf Builder

Follow the 2" sized crack through a bulge and sequential jams until you reach a comfortable rest ledge.  From here, follow much easier climbing on generous holds to the anchor.

New Yosemite

Follow the wide crack in the left-facing corner to the top.

Mr. Ed

Another line between the lines. I saw this one on rappel when I went to rescue Mark's stuck cam off of Ann's Revenge, and was once again surprised to find that I'd discovered yet another climb that wasn't already done. It's mostly easy climbing before and after the roof, with a somewhat-funky 5.10 mantle to get onto the headwall. I had to clean a little dirt out of a few gear placements and a few flakes of lichen off of some critical holds, but it went pretty quickly without too much effort.

The Fall season this year has just kept on giving, and this was yet another really fun route to bring to fruition with great friends on a beautiful day. On the hike out we discussed various names, and this (from the famous tatoo meme) was the one that drew the most laughs so I chose it as such.

No Ragrets

There are a couple popular guide routes inside the cave just left of Andropov's Cold.

Cave Routes  1 and  2

Climb the offwith with deep chockstones for holds and mantle the ledge, then climb up the slab to the anchors.

Oft-guided, usually has a line if no guides are on it.

The Distortionist

Nice corner climbing. Worth doing if it isn't wet. Normally the bottom half is wet but there is a variation that angles in from the left (The Hornet) which lowers the difficulty to 5.9 but has a committing rightward traverse. If the bottom half is dry then turning the roof at the apex of the chimney corner is the crux.

Lapping the Sap

This route wanders some but it is a worthwhile Toprope for beginners, especially for guides looking for easy climbs for clients.

Start on the ledge 4 ft up, go to lef arete, pull a couple of slab moves o the big undercling, then deadpoint up to ledge, mantle ledge, traverse into corner and finish to the top.

[Redacted]

Awesome climb. Beware for dirty holds after rain.

1st bolt is a bit high but clipping stance is solid on a bomber horizontal and a big right hand flake. Balance and technique are essential for gaining the second and third bolts. Taller climbers can follow bolt line but shorter climbers might be forced into a detour out left that ends is a hard deadpoint off of non-existent feet. After clipping 3rd bolt use bad dish and high smeared foot to gain flake/layback system on the left to an easier finish.

Note: this route used to end 12 ft short of the top of the cliff, it now ends at the top of the cliff and the anchors are reachable from the gravel covered ledge.

Reachers of Habit

Crimps off the ground to pinches, then the business, two bad finger locks, and dead point to a jug, then continue up the easy ground of

Keep it Tight But Don't Give Me AIDS'(5.6)

anchors.

Antropov's Cold

Start up New River Gunks, but instead of heading right by the first little roof go straight up. This route, like Team Jesus, is a one move wonder and you pull the crux right at your gear.

Reaching New Heights

Not as popular as many other routes in the area and as a result usually riddled with spider webs. Climb for a short distance and move right onto a ramp, following a left-facing flake system to the roof. Pull it and crawl right to join Four Sheets at the alcove.Finish up the awkward slot. Possible to pull the roof directly at 5.11c.

Enteruptus

Begin in a crack that is in a shallow, right-facing corner.  Climb this crack past a bulge and recover on a comfy ledge.  From here you can foot traverse to join another crack 6-8 feet to the left, or you can tackle the sequential diagonal crack that will join you with the larger vertical crack.  Climb this larger, juggy crack until it ends at another small bulge, then climb the face holds to the anchor slightly up and right.

The Entertainer

Crux is after the horizontal and seemed kind of sustained for about 10 - 15 feet.

This thing definitely warrants an R rating with the delicate moves done on the sloping crimps about 15 feet above your gear.

Bubba Meets Jesus

A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.

Rapscallion's Blues

As for

The Entertainer

but after ledge continue up and right to well-spaced thin fingers and small alien placements

Same anchors

Realignment

Same area as Cave Routes 1 and 2. However, follow crack system on the wall of main cliff and climb through hole in roof without using both walls or stemming.

Frigidator

Varied climbing with a couple fun moves. Start in the corner, stemming to gain a stance at the top of a flake about 15 feet up. A #4 protects the crux, which is harder if short. Easier climbing leads up the left face to the top.

Who Knows?

Start in a left facing corner directly to the right of New Yosemite and work your way up to the first horizontal and build a life nest. From there it seems that there are two different options. Head directly up using a sloping two finger pocket and a heel hook and then traverse right to the second horizontal. Or from the first horizontal stay low and traverse over to some small crimps and slimpers. Make a big move to small holds and traverse in right to the second horizontals. The first way is better protected, however the guidebook says go right, which puts you in a pretty bad place if you botch the moves to the second horizontal. Clear as mud?

Load up the second horizontal with tcus and smear those feet high for a big move utilizing a bad pinch. Move out of that sequence, clip the bolt and finish up easy terrain.

Yew Nosemite

This climb starts off with easy climbing and then once you clip the first bolt you are engaged in small face climbing. After leaving the all-too-short crack you find yourself on small edges and pinches. Using the correct holds and sequence will put you at big jugs and 5.9 climbing to the top.

Mystery Dance

Starts on a striking orange blunt arete where you use a thin flake system to navigate the opening moves. Plug gear in a horizontal and make a move or two to reach the first of four bolts. Slab your way up some easy terrain until you reach the base of the roof where you clip the 3rd bolt. The crux lies ahead of you. Pull the roof, establish a stance on the face, clip the last bolt, and your homefree to the anchors.

Nine Lives

Prepared to get a little dirty and have a lot of fun. Ascend the slabby left-facing corner and crack-system past an alcove through a roof.  Pull a few moves using the chimney, then finish up in a shallow right-facing corner.

Ann's Revenge

Start near the corner and climb up to some good holds. Traverse left to the base of a nice corner system that you follow to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Junkyard Wall