This route is the thin seam to the right and up from Fixx cliff.  We happened upon this climb after doing a 5.8 on Dog wall.  When we came toward the climb, about 20 Gambel's Quail flew off.  The seam offers a little marginal protection down low.  The real crux of this climb is trusting the rock.  On the FA, we probably broke 10 holds- I took a ground fall after breaking 3 holds 5 feet up.  There is about 20 feet of near vertical 5.7 climbing followed by 60 feet of 4th class/ 5.0 climbing.

Quail's Gamble

This short route on the far right of the cliff follows a seam to jugs to a slab. Not really worth roping up for; if you can climb any other route on the cliff solidly, this one's probably best done as a quick heads up boulder problem; the gear is more hassle than it's worth.

The Bindle

Begin about 10 feet right of The Geezer, above a cat's claw bush.  Climb the pink-striped face to a seam and then to a bolt.  Move right to another seam.  Climb lower-angled rock and varnished edges to the top.

Cocaine Hotline

Climb the smooth face to a drilled piton and continue up a thin seam.

The Geezer

Climb a thin seam to a hand and finger crack on the left edge of the cliff.  Difficult to protect.

The Whiff

This climb is worth doing on a visit to Fixx Cliff after you have done the classic Saved by Zero. The crux is the first 15 feet of the climb and involves finger locks, a sloper, and a good incut. Punch through this section to easier terrain to the top. Guide books I have looked at have this rated the same as Saved by Zero. I think the moves at the crux are harder than any of the crux moves on Saved by Zero, but the short length of the crux evens it out making this climb less sustained.

Crack

Begin about 10 feet right of Crack, above a scrub oak bush.  Climb a seam and ledges angling up and left.  There is no hanger on the third bolt; overall, the bolts are not in the best condition.

Free Base

Begins 15 feet right of One Thing Leads to Another.  Climb a short, thin seam that widens as the angle lessens toward the to.

The Skag

Short route up seam and edges to slab, a little harder and a little longer than "the Bindle" to its right-on this one, the gear might make you feel better, but given the quality of the pro down low, a spot until close to the lip might be more realistic. Gear anchor, walk off right.

Outside the Envelope

Begin just left of a right-facing flake, below a small roof.  Climb up and left using a series of huecos to a left leaning seam.  Move up to a right facing, left angling scoop with big holds.

Snow Blind

Climb the face to a thin seam, then to a shallow right-facing dihedral with a bolt.  Move left and follow a seam to the varnished face to the top.

Eight Ball

Arguably the best route on the cliff. A very enjoyable climb with good protection the whole way up. A great route for any one looking to break into harder traditional climbing. The route has the occasional hand jams, finger locks, and many face holds to keep you guessing. The steepness of the climb at the top will pump you out if you hesitate to long, so place that 0 TCU (Saved by Zero) and go for it.

Saved by Zero

Begin 10 feet right of Eight Ball.  Climb the ace to a thin varnished seam and continue to lower-angle rock near the top.

One Thing Leads to Another

Begin left of a varnished bulge.  Climb a seam to a crack.

Running

This one deserves a PG or R rating. The first bolt is about 30' up and the only gear up to that point is a #1 HB and a .5 Camalot in a shallow flared crack. The climbing through this section is delicate and sustained. I'm not real confident that either one of the gear placements would hold a fall. If you make it to the first bolt your safe and can now enjoy the sustained and very pumpy overhanging face to the top. If the gear was better on the bottom half this would be a classic comparable to Saved by Zero.

Red Skies

Start on the face and seam left of a small varnished dish, 10 feet right of the previous route.  Climb a seam to a bolt.  Traverse slightly left to another seam and continue to a horizontal.  Move right to a crack on lower-angle, varnished rock.

Reach the Beach

A rather sporty route. A #1 and #2 camalot will fit into the horizontal about 15 feet up. Run it out to the bolt. Don't come off as your belayer will have a tough time keeping you off the ground if you do. The crux comes right past the bolt. Be careful of loose rock on the top slabby section.

Stand or Fall

Fixx Cliff is a traditional crag that is characterized by tricky gear placements and the occasional bolt for protection. All of the anchors for the climbs on this crag are gear anchors and should remain that way to preserve and respect the style that these routes were put up with. The top of the cliff allows many opportunities for gear anchors and an easy scramble to the north will get you back to the base quickly. Fixx Cliff receives sun for the majority of the day as it faces to the south west. The majority of the routes on the cliff are are in the 5.11 range. Even though this is a traditional crag many face holds can be found while climbing on the routes. If you are not feeling up to leading 5.11 then an easy scramble from the north end of the crag will get you to the top so you can set up a top rope. The classic climb of the cliff is Saved by Zero and is a must if you climb at the Fixx Cliff.

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Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fixx Cliff