Climb up 20 feet of easy, broken ledges and clip the first bolt of the route on the smoother area directly above the broken area. Then, using pockets and sidepulls, get past the smooth area and continue through another six bolts. There are plenty of pockets and a jug always seems to appear  just when you need it. Just before the last bolt the pockets and feet get scarcer; after the last bolt the angle eases and you climb 10 feet of easy terrain to a ledge with the chains.

This is a pretty fun climb and worth doing. Even when

Escape Buttress

has been crowded Ive never seen anyone on this route (or either of its two neighbors).

Presidents Day

Climb up 20 feet of easy, broken ledges and clip the first bolt of the route on the smoother area directly above the broken area. Using underclings, reachy moves to small pockets and small-to-non-existent feet, get to the second bolt.

Use some fun holds on the top edge of the smooth area, and then start up through an increasingly overhanging section using pockets and crimps. This part is quite pumpy, and just when youre sure you cant hold on anymore, the pockets get smaller and less positive. After the last bolt haul yourself to easier terrain on some big edges and climb up another ten feet to the ledge with the chains.

This is a really fun climb. Even when

Escape Buttress

has been crowded Ive never seen anyone on this route (or either of its two neighbors).

Rock Requiem

Some thought-provoking movement above the second bolt when the big holds temporarily disappear, then lower angle climbing to a final, short vertical section.

There is an apparent continuation of the route consisting of three more lead bolts and another chain anchor on the wall to the left of the chains.

Camon's 9

This is to the left of the main selection of Sport routes on Escape Buttress. It was first climbed about one week after the death of Steve Carruthers, hence the name and he should never be forgotten in the climbing lore of the Wasatch.

The route starts next to a scrubby tree that may still be there and immediately goes up and right past 9 bolts to some huge jugs to clean, fun edges. It ends on a little ledge with a rap station with one chain vertically above a fixed ring hanger.

Probably still needs to get cleaned up a bit which would come with more traffic. I think most people enjoy this pitch.Previously unreported...anyone do this route and not know what it was?

Immediately to the left are two Tim Wolfe routes that are 5.11ish. NED is certainly no harder than 5.10a, so if you are climbing that hard, you must be too far left or completely off route.

No Escaping Death

Starts with jugs to the first bolt over a small roof then fairly thin between the first and third bolts. The crux is just after the fourth bolt. Thin, but reasonably good feet and some sidepulls will see it through (kinda scary though - it's a good distance from the fourth to the fifth bolt).

After the fifth bolt it is much easier with only one last thin move right before the last bolt.

Overall, a fun, longish route (A 60m rope is plenty; a 50m would probably be just long enough - a knot in the end would be a good idea).

Steel Graffiti

A juggy start leads to some thin, nerve-wracking climbing to get past a seemingly-blank section. Above the blank bit just hang on to what holds there are and run for the top.

Dead on Arrival

This is the first route you will come to when you get to Escape Buttress.  It starts on jugs between a small tree and a bush.

Fun climbing and worth doing.

Jug for Joy

This is the second to the last climb on escape and to the east of a large crack (not to be confused with the large dihedral that is further west. Shares anchors with Dead on Arrival (the route furthest east on escape).

The route is very steep face climbing at the beginning. The bolt placement could have been better, work the features to the left more so than the right. Has some tenuous crimpy holds mixed in with good pockets.

Body Bag

Twist and Shout is the fourth line of bolts as you make your way east through Escape. The base is more broken than the first few routes and it's the first one that is a part of that bulge. It's between Inside Information and Steel Graffiti.

This route has great pockets, great holds, with some very fun moves. Solid for the grade and definitely worth the time.

Twist and Shout

A fun romp next to a seam/occasional crack with a bit of a surprise at the end.

Stem up the shallow open book on a couple of awkward sidepulls and thin holds. Find a jug or two and head upward, mostly to the left of the seam but occasionally stemming across it.

Nearing the top it's mostly thin face climbing, but at the bulge right before the chains there are a few crack-ish holds, although you may find them mildly deceptive.

Middle Class Socialist Brat

A short, juggy climb up overhanging rock. Start on ledges and juggy sidepulls to the first bolt, then pockets to the second (including a nifty, smooth, white pocket lined with some sort of quartz-like deposit).

After the second bolt comes the crux. You can go right or left of the bolt. Choose wisely.

Motherload

Awakening is the sixth line of bolts and you go east across Escape, just left of the large crack/corner.

The crimpy start of Awakening is more difficult than many of the routes on Escape but quickly becomes a long jug haul. Look for two chalked-up crimps, about a foot from the large vertical crack, to start the climb and stay right the whole way up.

Awakening

Inside Information is the third line of bolts as you progress east across Escape. It's harder to find than most on the wall. It sits between Monkey Meet and Twist and Shout, before the bulging feature at the base of the crag.

The route is non-descript. Fun but not really exciting. Good pockets that follow up and over a large bulge.

Inside Information

Just right of Jug for Joy, Monkey Meet is the second route on Escape Buttress.It starts on huge jugs just right of the bush.  Climb up on nice stone and surmount a small roof.  Nice climb!

Monkey Meet

Start to the left of a ledge and haul on huge pockets to the first bolt. More pockets and edges to the second bolt, then it gets briefly thinner without pockets to the third. Big pockets to the fourth bolt and then the angle eases considerably to less than vertical through the fifth bolt and then the chains.

Important safety tip: Don't fall at the fifth bolt (although if you made it that far, you'd really have to be asleep to manage a fall).

If the climbing through the first four bolts were duplicated above this would be as good as

Monkey Meet

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Escape Buttress