An interesting name for an interesting route.

Start with an intriguing 5.10ish slab move that is well protected by a bolt (this is supposed to be the crux...). After a brief crack section (stoppers useful), you reach the base of the intimidating chimney. You can skip this first part by scrambling up to the base of the chimney from the right.

The chimney is reportedly 5.8 if you are good at these types of "ooze moves". It felt hard to me. Pro is tricky but it's all there.

Cum Slot

Dismal Abysmal

Jail Bird

High On Testosterone

Blowing Bubbles

Cave route

Puckered Starfish

South Face

Shag Rug

Strip Poker

Donkey Dong

Hocus

Viscious Circles

Jail Bird Direct

Krokus

Basically 15 feet of relatively easy climbing (5.10ish) followed by a stout V4 (old-school graded) boulder problem. Not a great route, but could be entertaining if you are a stronger climber than I am.

Start up the left side of the arete, making cool moves with great jugs, clipping the first two bolts with ease. Then fire the wicked-hard boulder problem - a long move off of marginal feet to a terrible sloper, then crank for the good holds.

Instead of starting Jail Bird on the left and traversing in, start on the large jugs on the left side of the cave formation at the base. Clip the first bolt, use the sloper rail, and power your way to a crimp which marks the start of the normal Jail Bird crux. Adds a grade or so, but also makes Jailbird way more fun. Easily toproped by scrambling up the left side chimney.

Located in the middle of the south side, this route is nearly always in the shade.

This interesting climb isn't too much about power, just keeping yourself balanced on a route with minimal footholds. There's a 5.11 move in the bottom near the first bolt that involves a smear move, and then sustained 5.11 lieback from the second bolt to the top, getting tougher as you move up. The crux is getting yourself to the top anchors, as the feet are non-existant in this section.

For an added burn, link this up with [Hocus](https://openbeta.io/climbs/b9dab653-ac19-5bf9-8b90-37c5ce61764d).

The Bay Area Climbers Coalition is a volunteer-run 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization focused on preserving access to our local outdoor areas by actively fostering positive relationships with land managers, hosting stewardship events, and providing educational programming for the climbing community. Formed in 2013 and incorporated as a non-profit in 2014, the Coalition has brought hundreds of volunteers to over a dozen Bay Area crags, successfully removing thousands of pounds of trash and other debris, clearing graffiti from multiple rock walls, and improving miles of access trails. We are the only official partner of the Access Fund in this region and we serve as the first point of contact for land managers interested in communicating with the climbing community. The Bay Area Climbers Coalition works to bring together all individuals and organizations in the San Francisco Bay Area interested in protecting and caring for our local climbing resources, including:

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Indian Rock