South Face

The Odyssey

SE Ridge

*var.* **Sixth Saturday**
**P1**:*var.* Step onto small ledge and climb wide crack past block onto right-arching, bushy ledge. Continue into seam, up faces to a lower-angled ramp. Follow broken corner system up to steep wall with crack splitting its middle face (200 feet). Belay from large blocks near water streak.
**P2**: Class three up yellow-green face to the left of prominent black streak, passing Saguaro and angling right into a complex of shallow, small dihedrals pocketed with a bunch of huecos. The climbing is low-angle with a bush belay at another ledge (130 feet). This pitch may seem like you’re climbing a mellow easy cl.5 route in Queen Creek.
**P3**: Scramble north, up and right of main ridge to base of grungy chimney. Climb squeeze chimney past several chockstones, onto steeper face and mantle onto ledge near a clump of Yuccas. Continue up another steep, wider chimney to gain the ridgeline again at large boulder belay (70 feet).
**P4**: Move across ledge, slightly down and stem off large boulder to mantle awkward crack/seam back left to gain ridgeline again and then up an easier face past large block to another ledge. Traverse this prominent ledge left below steep face. There’s an airy step across at a large grass clump, before reaching a nice vertical crack. Climb crack up and move left again to inconspicuous ledge before broken blocks and slightly overhanging groove. Pro belay in several small to medium cracks (135 feet). We believe this is approximately where the Sixth Saturday var. splits off from the original line's **P5**. If you climb right at the top of vertical crack, it goes to base of steep arête, directly on prow of main ridge. Perhaps this arête is listed as the sixth pitch in ’87 Phx Rock and ’98 Supes Select, but I’ve never climbed that way.
**P5**:*var.* Traverse left from belay ledge, crossing face to an even smaller ledge, below large, precariously perched blocks. Squeeze overhanging mini-chimney, using cracks and thin nubs to mantle pourover (5.10-). A single, small nut will protect this crux. Follow groove up and left to alcove at base of dihedral chimney (45 feet). Belay from small tree or use pro in the crack at back of dihedral.
**P6**:*var.* Stem chimney dihedral, past large chockstone and step across to right-arching crack. Continue up easier face to col. Downclimb right to access a hidden gully system. Sling belay from base of four-foot Saguaro (55 feet). When we did this route in October of 2008, we traversed left (west) from the obvious col and climbed an easier section for the final technical pitch. It finished at the top of the massive chockstone that is above the P7 belay alcove described below. We still aren't sure where the original line's seventh pitch 5.7 chimney is located.
**P7**:*var.* From Saguaro in gully, stem up, east (right) of shallow dihedral seam. Set pro in right crack, eventually stepping across to mantle onto a ledge above the crack system. There was an abandoned hex and two quickdraws here (likely bail gear). There’s also a narrow squeeze chimney at this ledge where one can see north through to the main gully. Climb up steep face, move left and traverse thin, flexy holds and foot rails (5.9 R) to regain the upper dihedral gully. A small cam protects the traverse about halfway across and another medium cam for the final step over. Continue up solid, easier faces through several small ledges to boulder alcove below massive chockstone (110 feet). Pro/sling belay from blocks.

The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) is an accredited 501(c)(3) organization. It was created to preserve the safety and integrity of fixed protection throughout central Arizona. Since its creation, the CABRP has replaced hundreds of worn and aged lead bolts and anchors. The fixed anchors used to create most of the sport climbs in the US are made of non-stainless steel. As such, they are subject to corrosion that weakens the anchors holding power. The non-stainless steel bolts throughout central Arizona have been exposed to environmental factors since the first day they were placed. All told, there are approximately 2,755 total routes throughout central Arizona. Working with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), CABRP is placing stainless steel glue-in bolts and stainless steel expansion anchors specifically designed for the rigors of our sport. CABRP requests that all climbers establishing new routes use modern, stainless steel equipment. CABRP recognizes that this makes establishing a new route more expensive, but it is also the responsible way to protect future climbers and the precious resource that is our rock walls. The Pond: (All glue-ins) Date Rape 5.7 (Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Easy Pool &amp; Dead Pool (shared Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Atlantis: (All glue-ins) South Wall Sir Charles - 5.10 Mondo Freako - 5.7 G-String - 5.8 Mickey Mouse - 5.7 Direct Start - 5.11b See you try, see you fail - 5.11b Ali Cat - 5.7 (anchors only) Neptune - 5.10 (pitch 2 anchors and 1st 3 route bolts) KGB - 5.10 Giggling Marlin - 5.9 McDowell's: (Stainless steel 1/2' x 3' bolts, stainless steel hangers) Hawk Boulder Hawk - 5.7 PG13 Energizer - 5.8 Gripple Variation - 5.10R Rosetta Stone Face Value - 5.6 Susan's Stroll - 5.3 (anchors) Brazilian Tenant Farmers - 5.5 Easy Street - 5.1 Arrowhead Arrowhead - 5.8 Hog Heaven Pissed off - 5.8 Tumbling Dice Tumbling Dice - 5.10 Gardeners Wall Hanging Gardens - 5.5 (1st and 2nd pitch anchors) The Phantom – 5.7 Electric Lady Land – 5.10 Phantom of the Opera – 5.10 Parental Guidance – 5.9 Renaissance Direct – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Battling Fear – 5.10 Fearless Leader – 5.10 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Snattlerake Dance – 5.5 Bruisin &amp; Cruisin – 5.5 Lickety Split – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) For Cryin’ out loud – 5.10 LITTLE GRANITE MOUNTAIN: Mogul Wall: Chet’s Arete – 5.8 S&amp;M – 5.9 Moguls – 5.9 Made in the shade – 5.10 Sleeping Cactus: Greg’s &amp; Al’s Excellent Adventure – 5.9 Chasm View – 5.10 The Bickerson’s Dirty Habits – 5.9 Left Face – 5.10 The Loaf: Wimpy – 5.8R Young Monkeys – 5.7 Blow Fly’s last ride – 5.10 “A” Crack – 5.10 Dike Walk – 5.10 Gender Blender – 5.10 Lost Bandana Wall: Dueling Hammers – 5.6 Family Affair – 5.7 Seemingly Useless – 5.7 (anchors) Loosy Loose – 5.11 Lawless &amp; Free – 5.9 Spectrum – 5.7 (anchors) Unknown route – 5.10 Limbo – 5.6 The Cone: Three Dopes on a Rope – 5.4 Sideshow – 5.6 Kate’s Fault – 5.9 Unknown – 5.10 Pasta Slab: Half Measure – 5.4 Full Measure – 5.4 Problem Dog – 5.3 Lower Devils Canyon: Glue in’s The Totem Pole - 5.10c/d Is there an area that is need of new hardware? Copyright © 2022 Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program - All Rights Reserved.

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Routes in The Acropolis