Great crack just right of the arete. One of the few climbs on Melrose Mountain that takes solid pro. Located at the lowest point of rock and either take on a roof move to the right of the low point that is hard 5.10, or climb an easier slab on the left and slightly uphill. Sequential moves up a jagged crack lead to an anchor. Easy to TR access as well.

Mamma’s Back Crack

Climb the obvious arete, but don’t let the big holds on Mama’s Back Crack to the right lead you astray.  Balance on the tip of the arete to find sufficient holds and high feet. Named after Tryon Town mascot, Morris the gigantic toy horse.

Morris' Arete

Shares start with Wanderer's Way but splits out left under steep roof and up through small notch.  Trends back right to bolted anchor approx. 10-ft below chossy cliff top.

Bee's Tongue

Even Nina Simone (Tryon native) would like this one. Nice moderate clip up on big holds. Start on a slightly dirty section of rock with easy climbing past the first bolt. Great edges lead past four more bolts to an anchor on the right.

Also possible to flake tope rope to right to pull through the steeper, bouldery sections of the rock face and to the right of the upper roof where a Southern Devil Scorpion has been spotted!

See Line Woman

This route starts right of the tree, passes 2 bolts, and then traverses left at second bolt to climb face to pass ledge to anchors.  Ascend without using the tree except to sling the Y (i.e. floss the crotch) at ~25 ft.

Crotch Flossin

First ascent party initially waylaid by mushroomed sleeve on 10-mm metric bolt in ⅜-in drill bit hole.  Although this resulted in less bolts to finish the route and a brief runout, the runout section is only 5.6 and bolts are just where you need them.  High first clip.

Screwed by a Mushroom

Fantastically funky dihedral roof crack route that passes left of the overhanging pizza wedge, steps back hard left onto the diving board and then passes by what appears to be a petrified oyster.  While the oyster (mica book) may not contain a treasure inside, even when wet this route is certainly a pearl to admire.

Pizza Pearl

Another Nina Simone classic and an initial 35’ jug haul at its finest!  In-cut jugs on an overhanging wall leads past 4 bolts to a 5.8 runout to 5th bolt and anchors.

Feelin' Good

Low first bolt protects hard move right off the ground, but main crux section is pulling roof past 2nd and 3rd bolts.  Huge horizontal move at second bolt is well protected.  Clipping 3rd bolt is tough!  Joins with Wanderer's Way past 4th bolt.

J's Junction

Pure ledgy face climb with fun moves and a challenging vertical finish.

Music Seeping Through

Start left of tree. Climb past 2 bolts on face to roofy dihedral that takes gear, and reach out from under roof to finish at chains on upper lip. Awaiting free ascent without tree knob.

Trees Got Your Back

Great little top rope to rig up for the kiddos.  Walk around or free solo to anchors.

Pebble Puppies

Layback the obvious dihedral roof crack with sparse feet, and then huck high to easier terrain.  At the Town’s request, this route is dedicated to the crew of stewards that helped to open this awesome resource.

Something To BRAG About

Start at a short crack section next to a small tree, then step up a slab to a short overhanging section just left of a wide crack. A #4 in the crack protects the overhang (clip it short to stay off the ledge, or sling it long to reduce drag, dealer's choice). Pull the overhang through a notch, then move left up a fun slab with gear to a ~7 inch tree.

Walk off climber's right.

Borrowed Bigfoot

Shares start with Bee's Tongue, but continues up right through larger corner.

Wanderer's Way

If you love sketchy pro on over-hanging dihedral cracks, start in same corner as Pizza to Pearls, but skip the first 2 bolts with big cams, traverse right under pizza roof, and join the next dihedral within upper section of Trees Got Your Back.

Rock Lobster

Two starts possible with this route- up the arete to bolt (climber's left) or through dihedral to bolt (climber's right), and then 2 more bolts up steep wall to bolted anchor on 2nd tier.

Don't squash the kids Kevin!

Sasquashem!

Climb left out past bolts out from under the steep overhang then sling branches up to tree anchor.

Starry Eyed

Meaning Hawk in Cherokee named in respect to the Native Americans who once watched over this land, who have rights to the water source nearby “Till the moon burns out”. This slightly overhanging warm-up will get your head right for getting high up on a cliff. Follow the obvious crack to start,  slightly right, then jump over and straight-up with solid placements all the way. Easy top rope back-up for the beginning trad leader.

Towodi (toh-woh-dee)

Go up left from first bolt on Cougar Leverage. Slab your way up to steep mantle crux with hidden crimp and jugs near finish.

Run to the Rock

Great slab. Crux/route veers left to mono pocket just past 4th bolt, but if the bolt positioning (sorry it's wonky!) or crux trips you out, you can veer right to dab off easier moves from Music Seeping Through.

Cabin Fever

Cougar Leverage

Mostly big holds on an overhanging rock face with wild and unexpected knee bars.

Monkey Knee Bars

Slightly overhanging to vertical face.  Big reaches to big holds. Named after stop motion capture of renegade ostrich at cliff base that likely escaped from nearby exotic animal farm.

Description

Protection

Routes in West Cliff - Main