Astrolube Sex Wax is a relatively new addition to the growing list of great routes at The Other Place. Make your way up the technical face to the base of the roof. Climb out the roof on good holds, utilizing heels to manage the pump. The crux is the last move getting established on the face above the roof.

Astrolube Sex Wax

This is the line to do if you come to this area!  Amazing climbing through 2 large roofs with fixed draws the whole way.   Climb up the vertical face, making some thin moves before the 1st roof.  Climb out the 15 ft roof along a flake to reach the upper face under the next roof.  Make a thin traverse right and then head up to pull the 2nd roof (crux).  Once you pull the 2nd roof, it's smooth sailing for about 20 feet to the shuts.

Depth Charge

Begin as for Stiff Upper Lip (11d), groveling your way through some dirty crack/offwidth. Take care reaching the second bolt, and then paddle through some subpar overhanging stone to the base of a dihedral roof feature.

Do a few hard pulls to reach a no-hands rest before the crux, a beautifully featureless sheet of white-orange stone. Crank a hard lockoff to reach the slippery arete, then figure out how to not barndoor off as you aim for a stance out left under the cap roof.

Though it would be logical to end the route here, every New River climb must end at the top of the cliff, so do a final dirty roof encounter, trending right along a roof flake to anchors on the face (make sure you take a moment to locate these from the ground or you might get hopelessly lost).

[Redacted]

This route climbs like a trad route, and it was originally.   Start by climbing a crack to its end and then head left over some easy ground on the face.  Climb straight up until the rock bulges.  Pass the bulge on the right and continue up the face to reach a small overhang.   Pull the overhang to reach the shuts.

Rosetta Stone

This is a must do for the area!  Very unique climbing on a beautiful face with many eyebrow like horizontals.  It's best to do this one in cooler temperatures.  Start at the right side of the wall beneath a clean brown face with many horizontals.   Climb up to reach an overhang and traverse right to gain a stance above it.  Continue to traverse up and left.   The holds will begin to get thinner as you proceed.   The crux begins as you approach the 6th bolt and continues until just before the 7th bolt.  After the 7th bolt, the climbing eases up, but the moves to reach the shuts are still thought provoking.

Low Brow

This is a very intimidating roof crack that splits the center of the Hanger Cave.  Although the huge underling/jam crack is the defining feature of the route, the bad landing, hard moves, sketchy pro, and seeping rock at and just above the initial roof are what keep most people off this route.

Roof of Death

Start on a low overhang and climb up and left making bouldery moves to gain a stance.  Continue straight up to clip the 3rd bolt.   Make a dyno to a horizontal (crux) off of some crimps.  From here, head left to reach the arete.  Climb the arete on the right side, passing the 4th bolt to reach the shuts.  Beautiful and powerful climbing for such a short route!

Macauley's Irish Stout

This is an interesting route and worth doing to experience the unique rock feature at the crux.   Climb up the vertical face making some technical moves to reach the overhang.  At the overhang, set up on the underclings in the bulging rock and find a way to make the long reach to the horizontal crack above (crux).  You will be rewarded if you have a large ape index.  From the horizontal, it's nothing but jugs to the shuts just above the lip of the final overhang.

Pulp Friction.

A variation on Rosetta Stone that looks to have been put up recently. Start up the crack behind the big tree, but continue up and right on the shiny new bolts. High step to pull two moderate roofs and finish on some brainy slab. Fun and varied climbing - the holds around the crack lead to some interesting jugs and a standing rest before the two roofs.

This route and Rosetta Stone share the first three bolts.  When Rosetta Stone goes left after the 3rd, and Champollion more or less straight up.

Champollion

A great line!   This might be a bit heady if 5.11b is at your limit, as the bolts are a bit spaced out.  Climb overhanging rock to reach a pair of crimpers.  Make a reach to a perfect hole and clip the 2nd bolt (crux).   Continue up the arete and get a good rest just before the final overhang.  At the overhang, traverse out right to reach the 5th bolt at the lip of the overhang.   Make a few moves on OK holds to pull the overhang (redpoint crux).

Flaming Pellets

The "arresting start" involves a bouldery sequence that can be done coming in from the right or the left. After getting a breather on jugs above the first bolt, commit (carefully) to a sequence on slot edges to the second bolt. A dynamic move gives way to a mantel onto a ledge.

Thirty feet of easy climbing through bad rock lead to a tricky sequence involving some longer reaches on steep terrain and a somewhat awkward maneuver to get established under the intimidating roof. Thankfully, the "noble finish" is far easier than it appears; just follow the line of epoxied buckets and enjoy the position.

Pull over the lip, clip the anchors, and then contemplate the most difficult crux of the route: how to clean it.

Good movement at the beginning and end, marred by some poor rock and copious glue.

Arresting Start to a Noble Finish

Cool combination of techy face and roof jug pulling.  Often wet, unfortunately.

The Way of the Beaver

Stick clip and follow the steep route out the left side of the Hanger...A pretty well defined crux and this one will clean up with more traffic.

Danger Flake

A linkup of The Way of the Beaver and Rosetta Stone. Start at the left side of the alcove that is right of Depth Charge on the thin, sharp, mossy face. Stay to the right of the crack, and climb the middle bolt line once to some bigger holds that will cut over a small roof. It's a bit run out if you're not solid at the grade, but it's fun climbing with rests when you need them.

Plumb Pudding

This is a really nice line that will benefit from more traffic to clean it up.   The moves are similar to those of its harder neighbor, Low Brow, but easier.   Climb up to reach a small overhang and gain a stance above it.  From here, climb up to the left of the bolts until the route forces you to the right.   Continue up to reach a nice ledge above the slab portion to reach a short, shallow left facing corner.   Using the smooth edge of the corner to reach a stance below the anchors (crux).

New Mexican Rodeo

This is a nice short 5.9 that is certainly worth doing.   This, like many others in this area, will benefit from more traffic to clean them up.  Locate this short climb just to the left of a crack/corner system.   Climb up the short face, finding good but thin holds along the way.

Teeter

Climb up the face wondering right and left as needed to follow the path of least resistance.   At about 3/4's of the way up, the route heads to the left of the bolt line with a few thin and reachy moves (crux).   As you approach the ledge at the top, be careful not to grab the loose block in the overhang.   Easy moves take you from the ledge to the anchors.

Eddie's Slab

A route for the diehard roof aficionado. Others might find it slightly less appealing due to poor rock quality and the general grunginess of routes on the left side of the Hangar.

Climb gingerly up the chossy but easy face. Minor difficulties are encountered transitioning into the roof, but soon you'll be treated to a couple of plate jugs and great heel hooks.

After a long move to a brick hold, the short-lived crux begins, involving a huge move to a half-pad crimp rail. A hand-foot match allows you to match your hands up in preparation for a final lunge into a jug. A few more moves of glory campusing along buckets bring you to the end of the roof, and a vegetated bit of vertical 5.easy leads to the anchors.

SR71

Stretch out because you're going to get some HIGH left feet on this one. There are a couple of different ways to work through the crux, though, so if high feet aren't your thing, don't get scared off.

Starting from the ledge, climb up through some moderately difficult moves trending left to a rest stance. Gather up your strength and go for the well-protected crux a little bit above, making use of a great side-pull.

Sit down, knee-bar, or just keep climbing through the much easier terrain to the anchor.

Makes You Figure

Climb some relatively easy, but thoughtful, slab to the roof. Milk a half-sit rest and then head into the roof. Some good holds lead up to a large deadpoint/dyno to a sloping edge followed by a core intensive match and then some pumpy 5.12 climbing to the chains.

B-52

This sort of goes in all directions, with all kinds of moves: wide stance, long reaches, crimpy rails, side pulls, one slopey junk near the top -- nothing super-hard, but a rather sustained 11a.

Eeyore Got the Bosch

This is a fairly solid route for the grade, nearly all of it will have your attention.  Start by grabbing the long horizontal ledge and pull up to gain a stance.  Head up and left toward a thin slab.  Make some very thin moves and head toward the overhanging upper section.  Clip the last bolt and work your way up the right edge of the arete, making a desperate reach for the clipping jug for the shuts (crux).

Submarine

This is a really nice 5.11 that goes to the top of the cliff.   Climb up the slightly overhanging white rock finding positive jugs in between slopers.   The crux is over within the first few bolts.   Continue up to reach a large ledge a little over the half way mark.  Here you'll see an old pin anchor.  Continue up the arete to gain the upper face.   The difficulty decreases substantially as you near the top, however the top is still quite fun.  The first half of this route is pretty sustained.

My First Eleven

Really fun mixed climb.  Climb through steep, sequential pockets, to a technical slab, until you are established beneath the obvious body-length roof crack.  Fire through the crack, over the lip, and then cruise up bomber jugs to the anchors.

Stolen Tiggers

To start, scramble to the top of the ramped boulder or start by stemming between the boulder and the wall to reach the first bolt. Climb straight up the clean face using small but positive crimps the whole way.   Near the top, the route can be made a touch harder by not using the wall to the right.

Hope Pathology

Encounter a crux at each of the stacked tiers of rock. There are 4 different cruxes with each getting harder as you ascend upward. Catch a rest before pulling the last roof and heading for the chains. The stopper crux at the end may spit you off if you are not fully committed!

Krag Kommander

With bolts approximately 10 feet apart on a seemingly blank slab, this route and the ones to either side (Yikes (5.9) to the left and Focus Point 5.11b to the right) look and feel way harder than their ratings. There are some wavy features that start near the base between Ring Worm and Focus Point and traverse up the wall to the top of Yikes. But you've got to pick one line to follow. I picked this one without consulting the guidebook and think I made the right choice. When I was there (Labor day weekend 2013), the first 10 feet along the base of all 3 routes was covered with a thick, wet layer of moss so stick clipping the first bolt and then yarding up the rope was mandatory. You may want to drag the stick clip up the wall with you for some of the other bolts. I'm not saying *I* did that, but I will say this was the first time I "aided" a sport route.

Ring Worm

Start in the crack system and follow it to reach the high first bolt.  From here, move quickly over steep rock to reach the 2nd bolt (crux).  Continue up, pull the small overhang and head straight to the top on good holds.   This is a nice line, but it does put a little space between the bolts.   It's safe, but be careful if this is near your limit.

This is a popular route for setting top ropes, but someone needs to put it up on lead.

D.D.

This is a great climb!  If you like slopers, this is your climb.   Begin at the start of My First Eleven to reach the first bolt.  From here, climb up passing the 2nd bolt to reach a horizontal and traverse a bit right.   From the traverse to the 5th bolt, climb quickly.   Crux is just above the 4th bolt.  Take a rest after the crux and follow easier rock to the shuts.

U Boat

Climb the face just left of a right facing crack, using the crack like an arete. Gets interesting toward the top, layback or stem until you can traverse left to the top of Teeter. Worth doing if you just led Teeter, but look out for spiders (you may want to clean on the way down from Teeter).

Tooter

Start just left of the blunt arête and climb up to the slab.  After a few sharp holds at the start of the slab, you'll reach a tenuous and hard to read crux.  Then enjoy a nice rest before pulling the finger crack through the roof.

Dark Time

Begin same as low brow (on a ledge at the below a 15' high roof, then at second bolt on roofs lip, follow the right trending ramp and crack to the right. take the crack up to the bulge and pull through on great holds to the headwall and work your way to the anchors on jugs.

Beetle Byway

A good route with a pretty distinct crux move at the lip.

Hook, Line, and Sinker

Start up Tiggers and Airplanes, but after the left-ward traverse, continue traversing left past a new bolt and a techy roof crux to finish up the last crux of B-52.

P38 Lightning

Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended as the crux occurs as you reach the good hold to the left of the first bolt.   These opening moves are interesting and may involve taking both hands off the rock to reach the key hold above.   After the initial crux, its smooth sailing on positive jugs and plates the whole way to the top.

This is a popular route for setting up topropes, someone still needs to lead it however.

Hundred Acre Wood

This is an interesting route.   Start by climbing up the vertical face to make a thin reachy move to a stance.  From here, head to the overhang with unique swirls in the rock.  Pull up to gain good holds in the overhang, clip the last bolt and head up into the brain-like face to the shuts.  There's a little space above the last bolt and the holds up there are a little dirty and not quite as positive as you may like.   Traffic on this route will likely increase once more people realize the grade (Not in Williams Guide).

Disco

Start with a few bouldery moves to gain the vertical face and climb to the roof.   At the 3rd bolt, head up and left, aiming for the obvious flake system that leads to a break in the roof (crux).  Gain somewhat of a stance at the roof break and continue up and left to make the final clip above the overhang.  The moves in the roof are really fun.  Lots of heel hooking!

There's a Thing on the Wing of this Plane

A great line that breaches the steepest part of the buttress.

Begin with a difficult boulder problem involving a couple of long moves between a blocky jug and a few sculpted crimpers. Cruiser terrain leads to a ledge rest at the third bolt. Thuggy climbing through the black rock of the roof ends with a cruxy lip encounter to establish on the face.

Rest up while you stare down a perplexingly blank section. After unlocking some "a-ha!" beta, finagle your way to your second no-hands rest of the route. Keep your guard up, however; a final crux awaits on the dirty slab just before the anchors, involving a balancey sequence on sloping pockets.

Varied, cool climbing up a proud feature.

Old Scratch

Start in an interesting crack, through some easy moves, into a goofy two finger under-jam something, to a tricky slopey finish near the anchors

Potato Gun

Asinine name aside, this route would've been a nice 5.9 or 10 save for one blank section at the second bolt. A little boulder problem featuring a large-ish move to a sloping dish marks the beginning and end of the difficulties on this single-move wonder. In fairness, it does climb good Meadow River stone.

If you're a boulderer, a gimme hunter, or misread the guidebook and thought you were on an adjacent route, this climb is for you.

Tigger Goes to the Enchanted Forest and Tears a Flapper on Pooh's Asshole

This is the easy version of "Tigger's Don't Like Honey" (common start).  Start "Tigger's Don't Like Honey" and climb to the right (first bolt) and follow line of the bolts to the anchor.

Malt Extract

Climb up a slabby section of rock making a few thin moves to reach a nice rest stance below the overhang.  Climb up and pull the roof.  After pulling the roof, search for holds to make a clip (possibly the technical crux).   Continue straight up to reach the last bolt and fight the pump to clip the shuts.  This route is still a bit dirty but it will likely improve with more traffic.

Accusing the Innocent

Begin at the dirty right facing corner and climb up and right to reach an overhanging section.   Continue up the face, passing some great holds until reaching the last bolt.   At the last bolt, find a way to move through the thin moves to reach the shuts (crux).

Treeiage

Stolen Tiggers' twin, with more bolts and no roof crack.  Steep pockets, to slab, to juggy roof.  I thought the slab was the crux.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Other Place (CLOSED)