This route was formerly R rated and hardly ever climbed. There was a bad fall on it a few years ago. Since then, the FA party had requested the addition of bolts to make safer. It is now a fun lead over water sculpted holds.

Start on gear crack- move right on face to bolt 1, then bolt 2, continue up to good gear in a flake (bottom flake is hollow, top is good) extend this piece long- head up and right on nice features past bolt 3 and 4th under the roof- Stem roof and get gear in blocks at roof- Save a blue or purple TCU for face move to final bolt- then easy run to anchor.

Bunky's Rest Day

Mirror image of comatose.

The climbing is fun but a bit dirty. Would give it three stars if it cleaned up a bit. Delicate climbing under the arch to a hard clip at the roof.

Original route goes more or less straight up, to the right of the comatose anchors, to another bolt, I moved out left to the comatose anchors.

A single 70m rope probably will not make it down from the top anchors, but will from the comatose anchors. Tie a knot in the end if you lower from comatose, a 70 barely reaches.

While You Were Sleeping

Waltzing Matilda

Nice face moves and some tricky foot work will get you to the slammer hand crack.

Heavy Hand

Tip toe out a ledge and up to a very hollow flake.  Bear down on the razor edge of the flake and do some tension moves to hit a horizontal.  Road runner mantel up to a stance.  Easy run out ground leads to salvation.

Aretophobia

Climb a featured curvy crack to a roof.  Head left and up past a bolt to the anchors on Rusty Redneck.

Cookie Time in Budapest

A great route that offers stemming, a 45 foot fist crack, and possibly the largest horn at the Bald. It is hidden from view from the ground and hidden from the 2nd pitches of other climbs. I believe has been untouched because of its elusiveness. It looks vegetated but the climbing by-passes all of the junk and stays pleasant the whole way. Hop and stem between a sharp arete, a fist crack, and another nice arete, passing a hug horn out right, and avoiding the vegetation. Rap from the tree 100 feet to the ground. Note: most of this climb is the 2nd pitch of Resurrection, 5.10.

Egg Hunt

Take the slabby face (crux) to the bolt 20 feet up. This leads to a nice finger crack that fits a blue TCU, then the route steepens as the holds get bigger. Clip a second bolt, stay close to the arete on your left and balance your way up to a two bolt anchor on a ledge with a tree

Name Unknown (Arete Ride)

An okay route if you have the time.  I wouldn't recommend leading it.  The rock seems pretty flaky and the first bolt is pretty high with a bad landing on a sharp boulder.  The climbing itself is pretty fun.  Climb up to a pocketed hold.  High step, crimp and smear past the bolt.  Continue up easy ground and a groove around the left of large bulge.

Unknown 2

P1: Climb an unprotected slab just right of a pine tree aiming for a thin vegetated crack that leads to the dihedral. Climb up the dihedral into a minin roof pulling left into the finger crack and arete. Climb that to a tree below a bolt.  100ft

p2: climb up to the bolt and up the face into the wide flake. Climb  under the wide flake with good gear up to where it converges with the gully, through big crack, fun moves on big holds will get you up over the roof to the same pine tree.

Climbing up on the face to the right after the bolt is beeline. Same start. This was put up by Rodney Lanier.

I dont really care who put up which route first. the point is to share the description of these routes which previous to the guide being out were lost in the grass and bushes of the occasional adventuring climber. They are both about the same quality and difficulty.

Rap: 1 70m rope will get you down via the gully or come up a bit shy of conception anchor - but can be attained with some shenaniganry - (tie knots in the end please if going to this anchor!!!)

Preying Mantis

Hard slabbing to some sweet face moves and up the right side of the huge flake. Walk the ledge left to the Heavy Hand anchor.

Medicine Tongue

Easy climbing to a spooky gotta commit move to get stood up to clip the first high bolt.  Climb the flake/groove feature past another bolt and easier climbing.

Gingerbread Man

A few fun cruxes on P1 and a looming dihedral over giant jugs, cracks, and solid pro on P2 make this a memorable outing. The opening crack took some cleaning but with some traffic, it should shape up to be a nice moderate.

Conception

Far left end of the Comatose Area.  See photo of topo below.

That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles

Rusty Redneck climbs a thin blunt arete to start then follows a series of crimpy face edges up a face.  Fun climbing.  Crux is down low on the route.  A piece or three may ease the mind.

Rusty Redneck

Takes the ramp just above the roof on Resurrection, and is basically an easier start to that climb. After the Resurrection bolt, pull the left overlap via the fun ramp, climb to the 2nd bolt on the unknown route to the left, then 15 feet right to a large horizontal gear belay (same as Resurrection belay)

P2 continues up the fun crack of Egg Hunt up and right

Resurrection Ramp

Pull the Plug climbs the texture face past a high bolt up to very thin slabby face. Guidebook shows going straight up and finishing on Comatose.

Pull the Plug

Short sport route 10 feet to the left of Comatose. Small balancy moves past 5 bolts to finish

unknown

Named after a Jack London short story where an inmate fools his captives into beheading him instead of torturing him. This route is much more tame.

Belay at the double tree. Follow the easy right hand face to a large ledge with a bolt at an overhang(cant see from the ground). It then climbs an easier prow between two prominent aretes in an isolated setting.

Lost Face

These two pitches offer a ton of variety and exciting moves.

P1: Pull the roof at two horizontal cracks (crux) and clip a bolt, follow the well protected to the off width section above the bolt. ramp up until you can trend right onto the crimpy 5.9/10 face, stay far right on the face for a yellow TCU in a horizontal crack (alternatively, you can climb a cleaner and easier face to the left and clip a bolt on the unknown route to the left. Your belay crack is in a horizontal at exactly 100 feet, about 15 feet right of the 2nd bolt on the unknown 5.8.

P2:Basically the same as "Egg Hunt" 5.8. Take the easy slab up and right until you can make the exciting step across the arete to the obvious 45 foot fist crack. Hop and stem between a sharp arete, a fist crack, and another nice arete, passing a hug horn out right, and avoiding the vegetation. Rap from the tree 100 feet to the ground (near Sea Wolf)

Resurrection

Wide crack to a foot ledge. The first attempt went up following the natural crack corner but backoff due to the massive hanging flake that is hard to tell how secure it is. With a little exploring a weakness was found stepping right on the foot ledge pulling the bulge and up the feature face. The first half is a little dirty and could use a bit more cleaning.

Sway Back

Great techy crack climbing to amazingly featured face climbing.

The Recluse

Comatose is the classic climb is this area.  The climb follows an arching and widening crack, using some jams and liebacks, until you step onto the face at a notch.  Cruise the face climbing section to the anchors

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Comatose Area