Little Dickens

Goof-Proof Roof

‘57 Pan Head

A.M.C. (Arizona Mouseketeering Club)

Dust Proof Roof

Fool-Proof Roof

Wired Wizard

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This was the last and best climb we did of the six Upper Wall routes (excluding Little Dickens). We were surprised that it was more taxing than it looked. Seemed like there were consecutive cruxes, all at full 5.7 value.

Both ’87 Phx Rock  &amp; '96 Phx Rock II detail this face climb as a runout trad route. I would suspect that the name alludes to this, but for some reason it now has four closely spaced bolts. The first can easily be skipped and the upper two bolts could have been consolidated as a centralized single clip to maintain some of the original flavor. IDK, perhaps the retrobolter asked the first ascentionists to add them. It seems inane for such a moderate climb.

Our Mission is to provide educational opportunities, climbing experiences, advocacy to protect our climbing resources, and stewardship of the Arizona Outdoors by promoting volunteerism and community engagement. Today, the AMC has over 300 members who are involved in all aspects of rock climbing, mountaineering and various other outdoor sports. AMC members range from the occasional weekend climber to those who attempt the highest mountains around the world. If you don’t know how to climb rock, the AMC offers Training with an emphasis on safety and self-rescue. AMC offers a comprehensive curriculum covering all aspects of rock climbing, including anchors, advanced rope-work, and lead climbing. If you already have climbing skills and experience, join other members on some of our regular outings – a great way to meet new friends and discover new climbing areas. Our Land Advocacy Committee works on issues related to maintaining and improving access to climbing areas. After a short business meeting, a program is presented to the members. Programs range from slide shows by famous and not-so-famous climbers to rock climbing videos and everything in between. The AMC publishes a monthly newsletter that has insightful articles, photos, and general information regarding a variety of topics. It’s a fun and informative read and a great place to share outdoor adventures. Benefits of membership Join or renew after June 30th and dues are pro-rated for 1/2 year at $20/person, $25/family.

The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) is an accredited 501(c)(3) organization. It was created to preserve the safety and integrity of fixed protection throughout central Arizona. Since its creation, the CABRP has replaced hundreds of worn and aged lead bolts and anchors. The fixed anchors used to create most of the sport climbs in the US are made of non-stainless steel. As such, they are subject to corrosion that weakens the anchors holding power. The non-stainless steel bolts throughout central Arizona have been exposed to environmental factors since the first day they were placed. All told, there are approximately 2,755 total routes throughout central Arizona. Working with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), CABRP is placing stainless steel glue-in bolts and stainless steel expansion anchors specifically designed for the rigors of our sport. CABRP requests that all climbers establishing new routes use modern, stainless steel equipment. CABRP recognizes that this makes establishing a new route more expensive, but it is also the responsible way to protect future climbers and the precious resource that is our rock walls. The Pond: (All glue-ins) Date Rape 5.7 (Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Easy Pool &amp; Dead Pool (shared Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Atlantis: (All glue-ins) South Wall Sir Charles - 5.10 Mondo Freako - 5.7 G-String - 5.8 Mickey Mouse - 5.7 Direct Start - 5.11b See you try, see you fail - 5.11b Ali Cat - 5.7 (anchors only) Neptune - 5.10 (pitch 2 anchors and 1st 3 route bolts) KGB - 5.10 Giggling Marlin - 5.9 McDowell's: (Stainless steel 1/2' x 3' bolts, stainless steel hangers) Hawk Boulder Hawk - 5.7 PG13 Energizer - 5.8 Gripple Variation - 5.10R Rosetta Stone Face Value - 5.6 Susan's Stroll - 5.3 (anchors) Brazilian Tenant Farmers - 5.5 Easy Street - 5.1 Arrowhead Arrowhead - 5.8 Hog Heaven Pissed off - 5.8 Tumbling Dice Tumbling Dice - 5.10 Gardeners Wall Hanging Gardens - 5.5 (1st and 2nd pitch anchors) The Phantom – 5.7 Electric Lady Land – 5.10 Phantom of the Opera – 5.10 Parental Guidance – 5.9 Renaissance Direct – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Battling Fear – 5.10 Fearless Leader – 5.10 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Snattlerake Dance – 5.5 Bruisin &amp; Cruisin – 5.5 Lickety Split – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) For Cryin’ out loud – 5.10 LITTLE GRANITE MOUNTAIN: Mogul Wall: Chet’s Arete – 5.8 S&amp;M – 5.9 Moguls – 5.9 Made in the shade – 5.10 Sleeping Cactus: Greg’s &amp; Al’s Excellent Adventure – 5.9 Chasm View – 5.10 The Bickerson’s Dirty Habits – 5.9 Left Face – 5.10 The Loaf: Wimpy – 5.8R Young Monkeys – 5.7 Blow Fly’s last ride – 5.10 “A” Crack – 5.10 Dike Walk – 5.10 Gender Blender – 5.10 Lost Bandana Wall: Dueling Hammers – 5.6 Family Affair – 5.7 Seemingly Useless – 5.7 (anchors) Loosy Loose – 5.11 Lawless &amp; Free – 5.9 Spectrum – 5.7 (anchors) Unknown route – 5.10 Limbo – 5.6 The Cone: Three Dopes on a Rope – 5.4 Sideshow – 5.6 Kate’s Fault – 5.9 Unknown – 5.10 Pasta Slab: Half Measure – 5.4 Full Measure – 5.4 Problem Dog – 5.3 Lower Devils Canyon: Glue in’s The Totem Pole - 5.10c/d Is there an area that is need of new hardware? Copyright © 2022 Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program - All Rights Reserved.

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Routes in Upper Wall