One of the best and most famous hard-12 sport climbs in North America.  It's been called 12c for years, but most of the current guidebooks now rate it 12d.  This is an awesome, steep, strenuous route, involving thuggish climbing to a delicate crux at the very end.   

  Much of the climbing in the lower section would probably clock in at about 12a/b.  The crux, involving a technical high step and reach to an elusive pebble, is not that hard in of itself, but the precision required for this move is usually hard to come by after the pumpy climbing below.  For those who project in this grade range, the key to the redpoint is to ruthlessly wire the lower section so that one can arrive at the crux fresh. 

  On a sunny winter day, one can enjoyably spend the afternoon watching numerous people cruising the lower section only to be spit off by the crux, again and again and again.

The Gift

This along with the Gift probably constitute the two most classic sport routes at the Gallery.  This one is exceedingly popular, so best to be patient if you plan on giving this one multiple tries.   

  Fun pumpy climbing follows the crack system, though no actual crack climbing is required.  As with the other routes at the Gallery, this one is probably a bit soft compared to similarly graded climbs at, say, Rifle.  Classic and awesome climbing, nonetheless.

Yaak Crack

This route lies right of "Pump First, Pay Later" and begins at a short, left-facing flake.

Running Amuck

The next route right of "Sport Climbing is Neither", and rather similar in difficulty.

Buck's Muscle World

just a longer more sustained version of the other climbs there. not too well travelled , only do multiple goes if the gallery is empty.

Sissy Traverse

Climb the first two bolts of The Glitch then head upwards on good holds separated by big moves. Make a span to a juggy side-pull then prepare for some small, slopey crimps as you pull over onto the slab.

Who Made Who

This beautiful line traverses the overhang at the far end of the Gallery, a few climbs to the right of The Gift. Hand over hand movement along a fantastic rail leads to a dynamic move followed shortly thereafter by a ginormous hueco rest. Continue up to solid anchors on the same face

The Glitz

Pulling out of the pod and continuing up from there is pretty tough.  Requires some delicate footwork and long reaches.

Social Disorder

The next route right of "Buck's Muscle World".  You have now graduated to 4 bolt routes!

Gelatin Pooch

This is a steep climb on horizontal crimps. It is excellent and much more sustained than The Gift or Where the Down Boys Go. The crux consists of a few radical pulls of ok crimps. If you don't manage to clip the last bolt 'cause you're pumped, and then fall, you go for the big dive...

Nothing Shocking

The next route right of "Gelatin Pooch".  It's starting to get steep now ...

Pump First, Pay Later

This climb starts at the bottom of the obvious right leaning crack to the left of Sport Climbing is Neither. Pitch one is approx. 100 feet. Belay to the far left on a platform. Protect the horizontal crack with hand-sized gear. Pitch two starts right along the face, then up and left up the obvious crack. Belay at the tripod pedestal rock using slings or cordalette. Bring slings to leave and rap rings or walk off down the gulley behind the climb to the right. Bring approach shoes! We did not rap off, so we don't know all the details. 

  Also, no idea if this is an actual first ascent... The name is obvious, so if it has been climbed, I bet it's called this already.  If anyone knows of a previous FA party, let us know!

Trad Climbing is Both

Between Running Amuck and Gridlock Direct, start from the ground and mantle up onto the ledge to clip the first bolt, head right on jugs to a long move in order to clip the 3rd bolt climb straight up to the anchors.

Gridlock

The route name is a tribute to Mr. Denny Goode who first took me to The Gallery some 17 years ago and has been a consistently positive and encouraging member of the local climbing community for many years.  A great climber and an all around good dude! 

  Another warm-up at The Gallery.  Feels a bit easier than the 5.8 to the right.

That Goode Dude Climb

Located to the left of A Day in the Life, climb out of the left side of the pod on good holds keep moving left after clipping the bolt and then right eventually rejoining the Gridlock 11a to the left.

Gridlock Direct

Where the Down Boys Go

This route has sustained crimps throughout, and is slightly overhanging. A very fun start leads to a great pump as you keep climbing. Near the end you have the option of some more small crimps or a dynamic dead point. Either way you finish, this route is solid for the grade and a very enjoyable climb.

A Day in the Life

Starts between A Day in the Life and Yaak Crack, next to a small tree. A bouldery start leads to a very thin and very sustained overhung face. The holds get bigger and the wall steeper as you go. 5.12a if you start off the shelf behind.

Minstrel in the Gallery

This is the shortest and farthest left route at the Gallery that looks easy.  It's not even overhanging! 

  One strategy is to start with this route and keep moving right, see how far you can get!  I didn't get too far ...

Sport Climbing is Neither

This is the far left route at the Gallery- about 50' or so feet left of Sport Climbing is Neither. It's pretty much as hard as it looks- a tricky crux off the ground leads to steep climbing through a bulge and then to anchors.

Range of Motion

The Gallery is south facing and warm on cold days. The routes range from 5.8 to 5.13a/b. The Gift (5.12d) has been climbed in several climbing videos and is one of the 18 routes at the Gallery.  

  [Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA]. 

  IMPORTANT: Waste bags are provided by the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council in order to reduce human waste issues at the crags and boulders.  Please feel free to take one, use as directed, and dispose of in any trash receptacle.  Please do not leave them lying around, and do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.  The project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club's Cornerstone Conservation Grant, with additional funding from the Access Fund and Mountain Gear.  Please do your part to be a good steward of this amazing climbing area.

"Our mission is to protect access to climbing in Southern Nevada by encouraging responsible stewardship and community involvement among local climbers."

Description

Protection

Routes in The Gallery