Fearless Leader

Renaissance Direct

First Impressions

Phantom of the Opera

Facer's Choice

Black Streak

Broken Knob Job aka unknown crack

Gravity

For Cryin' Out Loud

Hanging Tough

Renaissance

Brusin' and Cruisin'

Battling Fear

Kreuser's Chimney

Dog Fight Giggle

Seam-In

Electric Lady Land

The Phantom missed the Opera

Easy Chair

Gobs of Nobs

Southeast Arete

Hanging Gardens

The Phantom

Lickety Split

Putatively one’s first trad, multi-pitch lead could have been Hanging Gardens. It was possibly followed, maybe belatedly by a gripped chafe session on Renaissance Direct. Perhaps not, supposedly one may definitively scamper the opening bolted slab, then smoothly transition left across RD, face climbing past two newer hangers to the easier second P1 crux of the upper Kreuser’s Chimney Direct crossover. A crack there exits left and gains a bonzer horizontal ledge, which takes greater than medium cams for belay (right of The Phantom and Gobs of Knobs). The next pitch above reaches past bolts five and six, where it becomes a dash for safer passage. This likely third mental crux is deciding quickly your best trace. Know the gritty McDowell moxie when ascending here, pro options do exist above, shortly before this 35m second pitch concludes at a prominent horn with two glue-ins. If the opening mount of the P1 slab start and above that goes well, you shouldn’t have any issues with the upper P2 runout.

In essence, not as presumed and somewhat similar to the sillier Electric Lady Land. The '96 Phx Rock II has it listed as a 9+, but we weren't persuaded.

Our Mission is to provide educational opportunities, climbing experiences, advocacy to protect our climbing resources, and stewardship of the Arizona Outdoors by promoting volunteerism and community engagement. Today, the AMC has over 300 members who are involved in all aspects of rock climbing, mountaineering and various other outdoor sports. AMC members range from the occasional weekend climber to those who attempt the highest mountains around the world. If you don’t know how to climb rock, the AMC offers Training with an emphasis on safety and self-rescue. AMC offers a comprehensive curriculum covering all aspects of rock climbing, including anchors, advanced rope-work, and lead climbing. If you already have climbing skills and experience, join other members on some of our regular outings – a great way to meet new friends and discover new climbing areas. Our Land Advocacy Committee works on issues related to maintaining and improving access to climbing areas. After a short business meeting, a program is presented to the members. Programs range from slide shows by famous and not-so-famous climbers to rock climbing videos and everything in between. The AMC publishes a monthly newsletter that has insightful articles, photos, and general information regarding a variety of topics. It’s a fun and informative read and a great place to share outdoor adventures. Benefits of membership Join or renew after June 30th and dues are pro-rated for 1/2 year at $20/person, $25/family.

The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) is an accredited 501(c)(3) organization. It was created to preserve the safety and integrity of fixed protection throughout central Arizona. Since its creation, the CABRP has replaced hundreds of worn and aged lead bolts and anchors. The fixed anchors used to create most of the sport climbs in the US are made of non-stainless steel. As such, they are subject to corrosion that weakens the anchors holding power. The non-stainless steel bolts throughout central Arizona have been exposed to environmental factors since the first day they were placed. All told, there are approximately 2,755 total routes throughout central Arizona. Working with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), CABRP is placing stainless steel glue-in bolts and stainless steel expansion anchors specifically designed for the rigors of our sport. CABRP requests that all climbers establishing new routes use modern, stainless steel equipment. CABRP recognizes that this makes establishing a new route more expensive, but it is also the responsible way to protect future climbers and the precious resource that is our rock walls. The Pond: (All glue-ins) Date Rape 5.7 (Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Easy Pool &amp; Dead Pool (shared Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Atlantis: (All glue-ins) South Wall Sir Charles - 5.10 Mondo Freako - 5.7 G-String - 5.8 Mickey Mouse - 5.7 Direct Start - 5.11b See you try, see you fail - 5.11b Ali Cat - 5.7 (anchors only) Neptune - 5.10 (pitch 2 anchors and 1st 3 route bolts) KGB - 5.10 Giggling Marlin - 5.9 McDowell's: (Stainless steel 1/2' x 3' bolts, stainless steel hangers) Hawk Boulder Hawk - 5.7 PG13 Energizer - 5.8 Gripple Variation - 5.10R Rosetta Stone Face Value - 5.6 Susan's Stroll - 5.3 (anchors) Brazilian Tenant Farmers - 5.5 Easy Street - 5.1 Arrowhead Arrowhead - 5.8 Hog Heaven Pissed off - 5.8 Tumbling Dice Tumbling Dice - 5.10 Gardeners Wall Hanging Gardens - 5.5 (1st and 2nd pitch anchors) The Phantom – 5.7 Electric Lady Land – 5.10 Phantom of the Opera – 5.10 Parental Guidance – 5.9 Renaissance Direct – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Battling Fear – 5.10 Fearless Leader – 5.10 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Snattlerake Dance – 5.5 Bruisin &amp; Cruisin – 5.5 Lickety Split – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) For Cryin’ out loud – 5.10 LITTLE GRANITE MOUNTAIN: Mogul Wall: Chet’s Arete – 5.8 S&amp;M – 5.9 Moguls – 5.9 Made in the shade – 5.10 Sleeping Cactus: Greg’s &amp; Al’s Excellent Adventure – 5.9 Chasm View – 5.10 The Bickerson’s Dirty Habits – 5.9 Left Face – 5.10 The Loaf: Wimpy – 5.8R Young Monkeys – 5.7 Blow Fly’s last ride – 5.10 “A” Crack – 5.10 Dike Walk – 5.10 Gender Blender – 5.10 Lost Bandana Wall: Dueling Hammers – 5.6 Family Affair – 5.7 Seemingly Useless – 5.7 (anchors) Loosy Loose – 5.11 Lawless &amp; Free – 5.9 Spectrum – 5.7 (anchors) Unknown route – 5.10 Limbo – 5.6 The Cone: Three Dopes on a Rope – 5.4 Sideshow – 5.6 Kate’s Fault – 5.9 Unknown – 5.10 Pasta Slab: Half Measure – 5.4 Full Measure – 5.4 Problem Dog – 5.3 Lower Devils Canyon: Glue in’s The Totem Pole - 5.10c/d Is there an area that is need of new hardware? Copyright © 2022 Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program - All Rights Reserved.

Description

Routes in Gardener's Wall