Start off on the steeply overhanging (35 degree) line of jugs and pockets, cranking through relatively powerful moves on great holds. after a few bolts, the angle lessens and decent rests can be found. Though there aren't any ledges, there are a couple places where good body positioning will be rewarded with taking nearly all your weight off the forearms, which will undoubtedly be pretty pumped unless you climb 5.13. Efficient climbing, good footwork, and the ability to find rests are the secret to success on this classic line.

Monkey in the Middle

Climb pocketed tiers just to the left of the more popular Monkey in the Middle. Though still juggy, it seemed to climb like less of a jug haul than the other routes on this wall.

Animal Husbandry

This is the first of the climbs encountered on the left side of the crag. These are more characterized by the steeper climbing and pockets. Further right, the routes you have now passed are more consistently thin edges on clean faces.

Start up the right line of bolts from the boulder passing a roof to follow the line to the anchors.

On a very early ascent of this line, I scribbled the following note in my guidebook:

"Choss-pile, Wet too! 10 bolts, 10' right of One Brick Shy, probably 11a."

But I was there on a rainy week.  Ellington likes it in his book enough for 3 stars, so maybe it cleaned up and is not always wet.

Skin The Cat

Scar Tissue is on a steep, pocketed section of the wall. This route begins on the left side of a low overhang and ascends the steep face to a final, more vertical section.

This route will stay dry in a downpour

Scar Tissue

A good route by it's own merit, but popular mostly as a warm up for the rest of the lines at The Zoo.

The route is on small holds on a near vertical wall, but only has a few moves at the grade down low.

Put Me In The Zoo

Start with a move or two off the ground to reach a duck bill hold sticking out of the wall. Climb through crimps and varied holds to reach a tough clip at the 3rd bolt and a good rest at the 4th bolt. Figure out a sequence to reach the anchor.

Eye of the Liger

Climb the steep and sequential overhanging pockets to a series of big powerful moves between jugs and pretty good holds... the crux is a huge undercling move that links two big huecos across a blank face... The moves above there are still big and hard but not as bad, so long as you can keep your cool and not get pumped...

I was able to get a little rest in the form or an OK horizontal knee bar and a jug before the crux move... with a knee pad and the right size leg it could be a really good rest indeed...

I found this to be a super fun route that rivals the more popular Ro Shampo across the street at Road Side Crag...  they are both full quality but if you don't dig the crowds maybe this is your 5.12a... This one might be harder for those without a long reach...

Hippocrite

Another good route on the smoother side of the wall, but has a few steep moves on a roof and bulges. As such, it is a mix of crimps and larger holds, still with a balance of crimps. Pocket fans can skip this one as well.

If "Put Me In the Zoo (9+)" is occupied, the might be the best warm up for you.

Chimp

climb out the same steep overhang to the left of 'on beyond zebra!' and pull through a few bulges and ledges up higher.  climbing onto the ledge and through the bushes about halfway up is a little less than ideal.

Lynx Jinx

Just right of a big cave with a cool looking steep wall... Look for the line of bolts up a blank wall with pockets above and more moderate climbing to the top of the cliff....

Climb up on to the seemingly blank wall and start the search for micro crimps... They are there but they are a little tough to find... Wander your way up the micros till the wall steepens and you hit a crux that will gain you a nice Hueco pocket... Once you hit the big pocket its over... Next you hit some cool chicken features then a few moderate bulges to the chains...

A great route if you like insecure low angle face climbing... Route finding and good footwork are a must... Might be stiff in the grade, its harder than the other 5.10ds in the area anyway...

Highly recommended...

Edgehog

Climb an awkward, wide, mossy bottom section that is often mank. Follow the solid featured crack above to the top.

Live Action

Small crimps up a very steep wall. Described by Daniel Woods as "a pretty savage 18 move power endurance line. The holds are small and aggressive. Felt like doing an intro 8B/v13 straight into a 7C+/v10 with no rest."

Zoolander

Another blank looking cripy crux leading to better holds... This one isn't quite as stiff as Edgehog 5.10d but isnt as interesting either...

Climb the blank looking slab over some super tiny holds to better holds and easier climbing... The only challenge other than the slab is a pull over a short roof that isn't too diufficult at all compaired to the start... after the roof cruise to the top, aint nothing stoppin you...

The only negative thing about this route was that it seemed dirty, more so than the others in the area...

Jail Bird

Start on a boulder and climb through a short overhanging section to the second bolt.  Continue to the anchors on sub par, but still enjoyable rock.

Cannonball

Start with a couple tough crimps and head up on steep terrain through more crimps and pockets. Figure out how to get to the jug in the roof out left. Climb easier terrain to the anchor.

There is a low first bolt to help keep the belayer on the boulder while belaying.

Zoology

This climb is a mix of characters typical of the left and right sides of the Wall. The bottom has the pockets and steepness expected to the left, and the top the slabby crimps expected on the climbs located on the right side of the wall... and somewhere in between is somewhere in between.

One Brick Shy

Another route for the folks who prefer edges and ledges to pockets, but still a route requiring strength. Long lock-offs are the key to the climb and shorter climbers might find it more difficult, perhaps the reason for its early 5.11a rating.

Armadillo

This route climbs the arete to the left of Hippocrite. Boulder through powerful and sandy moves to gain a roof, traverse left to clip, then find the flake before continuing right to the anchors

Aviary

Fairly short, but very steep and sustained. Follows the striking, obvious, overhanging crack.

vimeo.com/167520445

Zookeeper

About thirty feet left of 'One Brick Shy,' and the huge central amphitheater of the zoo, you will find this impressive line of bolts over a gradually overhanging face. This route has three main sections, all split up by no hands rests. Start up the slightly overhanging bulge, cranking your way through jugs until the first ledge is reached. Bring a medium sized cam and place it here for optional protection, for there is a moderate runout (on easy terrain however) to the next bolt. After a nice rest, embark on part II of your journey, the steepest (and most juggy)section to another smaller ledge. The final section holds the crux for many, for although the angle lessens slightly, holds become smaller and more scarce. Efficient climbing and good resting will eventually bring you to the final, lower angle top section where the chains will be waiting.

Geezers Go Sport

Hard project with a bouldery start in need of a good cleaning, bring a stick clip & brush and finish 'er up! Probably 12+ to mid-13 range.

Open project

start on top of the large boulder and pull on steep rock with good holds.  turn the lip and ride good holds to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Old Zoo