The Short Lead

Tuesday Afternoon

The Glory Road

Erection Direct

Root Beer

Bandito Route

Big Bruno

Lay Me Down

The Long Road

Fettucini Afraido

Simmer Til Done

The Long Lead

Stroke It Gently

Two pitches.

**P1**: Stem/squeeze four distinct chimney sections until possible to move southeast onto a large pseudo-summit ledge (chain anchor).

**P2**: Gap chimney west, climb easy face, move right, crossing over large boulders and up steeper, highly-pocketed face to summit.

I could take the high road
But I know that I'm goin' low
I'm a ban—I'm a bandito
*Twenty One Pilots*

Definitely a more technical route than Stroke It Gently and Erection Direct, so conceivably this could be the best climb on BCW. The jive-turkey hangers have been replaced and the rivets are gone. The roof crux sequence is tricky and only slightly lets up afterward. Pitch two has sparse protection but follows the easiest terrain. The upper third pitch dihedral requires ones full attention by being tighter and tougher than The Long Lead's pitch two.

**P1**: From the top of large flake pile, mount slab, climbing past first clip to an equipoising ledge below roof. Clips two and three above protect the overhanging crux face. Continue up slightly lower-angled face into a right-arching crack and over another bulge. A mellow yellow, pocketed slab finishes at a three-bolt belay.

**P2**: Climb lichen face above belay past piton (crossing The Long Road) and continue through a multitude of great pockets passing the fourth clip. The face thins near the fifth clip, where trending right gains a large flake system, which eventually reaches a large belay ledge with two double rings on left (beginning of The Glory Road’s pitch three). It's possibly to trend left slightly above clip five for a more direct P2 crux line to the anchors. The seam angling left from this ledge is the start of Lay Me Down.

**P3**: On the right side of big ledge, past a bush, there is a swelled, pocketed wall that gains a thin crack.  Follow crack and then face up to base of a steep dihedral. Stem the dihedral and finish on upper slab (same as The Long Road). Pro belay.

A sporty alternative finishing pitch for either The Glory Road, Tuesday Afternoon or the Bandito Route. Ascends the center east face of BCW's upper headwall, joining the last pitch of Stroke It Gently at the final horizontal crack traverse.

The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) is an accredited 501(c)(3) organization. It was created to preserve the safety and integrity of fixed protection throughout central Arizona. Since its creation, the CABRP has replaced hundreds of worn and aged lead bolts and anchors. The fixed anchors used to create most of the sport climbs in the US are made of non-stainless steel. As such, they are subject to corrosion that weakens the anchors holding power. The non-stainless steel bolts throughout central Arizona have been exposed to environmental factors since the first day they were placed. All told, there are approximately 2,755 total routes throughout central Arizona. Working with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), CABRP is placing stainless steel glue-in bolts and stainless steel expansion anchors specifically designed for the rigors of our sport. CABRP requests that all climbers establishing new routes use modern, stainless steel equipment. CABRP recognizes that this makes establishing a new route more expensive, but it is also the responsible way to protect future climbers and the precious resource that is our rock walls. The Pond: (All glue-ins) Date Rape 5.7 (Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Easy Pool &amp; Dead Pool (shared Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Atlantis: (All glue-ins) South Wall Sir Charles - 5.10 Mondo Freako - 5.7 G-String - 5.8 Mickey Mouse - 5.7 Direct Start - 5.11b See you try, see you fail - 5.11b Ali Cat - 5.7 (anchors only) Neptune - 5.10 (pitch 2 anchors and 1st 3 route bolts) KGB - 5.10 Giggling Marlin - 5.9 McDowell's: (Stainless steel 1/2' x 3' bolts, stainless steel hangers) Hawk Boulder Hawk - 5.7 PG13 Energizer - 5.8 Gripple Variation - 5.10R Rosetta Stone Face Value - 5.6 Susan's Stroll - 5.3 (anchors) Brazilian Tenant Farmers - 5.5 Easy Street - 5.1 Arrowhead Arrowhead - 5.8 Hog Heaven Pissed off - 5.8 Tumbling Dice Tumbling Dice - 5.10 Gardeners Wall Hanging Gardens - 5.5 (1st and 2nd pitch anchors) The Phantom – 5.7 Electric Lady Land – 5.10 Phantom of the Opera – 5.10 Parental Guidance – 5.9 Renaissance Direct – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Battling Fear – 5.10 Fearless Leader – 5.10 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Snattlerake Dance – 5.5 Bruisin &amp; Cruisin – 5.5 Lickety Split – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) For Cryin’ out loud – 5.10 LITTLE GRANITE MOUNTAIN: Mogul Wall: Chet’s Arete – 5.8 S&amp;M – 5.9 Moguls – 5.9 Made in the shade – 5.10 Sleeping Cactus: Greg’s &amp; Al’s Excellent Adventure – 5.9 Chasm View – 5.10 The Bickerson’s Dirty Habits – 5.9 Left Face – 5.10 The Loaf: Wimpy – 5.8R Young Monkeys – 5.7 Blow Fly’s last ride – 5.10 “A” Crack – 5.10 Dike Walk – 5.10 Gender Blender – 5.10 Lost Bandana Wall: Dueling Hammers – 5.6 Family Affair – 5.7 Seemingly Useless – 5.7 (anchors) Loosy Loose – 5.11 Lawless &amp; Free – 5.9 Spectrum – 5.7 (anchors) Unknown route – 5.10 Limbo – 5.6 The Cone: Three Dopes on a Rope – 5.4 Sideshow – 5.6 Kate’s Fault – 5.9 Unknown – 5.10 Pasta Slab: Half Measure – 5.4 Full Measure – 5.4 Problem Dog – 5.3 Lower Devils Canyon: Glue in’s The Totem Pole - 5.10c/d Is there an area that is need of new hardware? Copyright © 2022 Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program - All Rights Reserved.

Description

Routes in Barks Canyon Wall