Prespiration

Really fun route, great for a first "wide" lead. Climb the rightmost, wide, alimony crack.

Don't be intimidated by the appearance of the start, it's not as burly as it looks and it's more fun than the crack on the left. The first wide pod goes without any real offwidth moves.

Higher you will find opportunity for some true offwidth moves, though my partner managed to climb it with only a cowboy arete move and some shoulder jamming...

Save at least half your wide gear for the top. I found the Crux to be the wide section at the top, while my (shorter) partner found exiting the lower wide pod to be the crux.

Alimony Cracks, right

This is one of the first climbs encountered upon arrival at the cliff.

Same start as "Fingertips". Climb up to the first bolt, move up and left past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay. The crux is shortly before the belay.

Climb a 5.10a pitch past 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Either walk off left or rappel 165'.

14 Karat

This is the left most line of the Guide Cracks.  Ascend a left facing dihedral to the the top of the pillar.  Head up the  crack until you can move right onto the slab and bolted anchor.

Guide Cracks  1

Guide Cracks 3

The rightmost and easiest of the Guide Cracks.  Fun easy and well protected crack/pod climbing.  A great  introduction to trad leading and crack climbing.

Guide Cracks  4

From the top of a small flake, right of "Great Circle", climb past 7 bolts to the "Great Circle" anchors. Rappel 150'.

Hogwash

This route is left of the center of the cliff and starts in a crack on the left side of a polished gold slab.

Climb the crack, move up past two bolts (5.9), to a three bolt belay.

Climb through polish past two bolts to a two bolt anchor. Rappel 165'.

The Great Circle

Climb the left of two parallel cracks at the left side of the cliff.  The crux is pulling through a short, steep section (5.8).  Beyond this, easy climbing leads to a bolted rap anchor.

Two raps with a single 60m rope will get you back to the ground.  The second rap is a full 100', so be careful.  You can also TR

Fingertips

from the lower anchor.

Alimony Cracks

Fun, but runout for leader and follower. Climb up a ramp, crux, to the 1st bolt. Then traverse left to the 2nd bolt and straight up 15-20ft to the 3rd bolt up some knobs to the anchor.

Liberation

The second crack from the left of the guide cracks. Climb the hand and finger crack to a rest ~20ft. off the deck.  Then climb the right facing dihedral until you can move onto the slab and bolted anchors.

Using only the crack makes this climb a bit harder.  The moves are easy with technique but the many knobs in the crack are not too kind to the feet.  For those who wish there're ways to bypass sections of the upper and lower cracks.

Guide Cracks  2

Climb past 2 bolts, then move right past two more and up a flake to a two bolt belay.

A 5.10a pitch moves left and up past two bolts then right past another bolt, then up to a two bolt anchor.

Fingertips

Clip the first two bolts of Hogwash, then go left.  The crux is well-protected, after the third bolt, very glassy.  The type of moves where your shoes will squeak as they try to stick! Keep trending left to intersect in the second pitch of Great Circle.  Reid and Falkenstein have this route rated PG/R, but I found it PG.

It Is Finished

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Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Flank