Short power problem that busts out the roof on the left side.  Start on a heavily chalked jug under the left side of the roof.  Make a left handed move to pinch a tufa like feature, then make two more moves setting yourself up on sidepulls and throw to the jug up and over the lip.  Tuck those feet in to avoid dabbing and undoing that precise throw you just made.   Top out from there. 

  Fun, but I still want to go to Hueco.

Who Needs Hueco

Climb the roof left (looking into the cave) of Who Needs Hueco.  Hard!

Gravity Hits

same start for under the grid but instead of moving right to the arete follow the crack for leapfrog and finish on leap frog direct.

Keep It Hid

Start seated all the way in the back corner of the hueco cave on a low jug. Traverse a crack along the left wall of the cave until you meet the start of lip service, and then finish through lip service.

Lip Spiders

An awesome start variation to "The Quiet Buddhist", utilizing the full lip as a traverse. Most get this variation of the ascent before ticking the big throw start of TQB. Sit start at the base of the cave on an overly chalked jug shelf, that is the starting hold for the "Pond Cave Traverse". Pull up to good but technical crimps above the arete, traversing left until dropping down into the arete, joining the rest of TQB. Great climbing!

The Buddhist

A fun little problem working your way up come nice angles ledges to a jug peak.

Fly You Fools

Start on right side of cave as for Quiet Buddhist, traverse left along back wall of cave to start of Who Needs Hueco, climb out finishing on Gravity Hits.  Very contrived...

Under the Big Top

V4 might be the best grade to climb at Lincoln Woods and this one is a contender for the top. Start sitting at jug where the two walls meet and then follow the crack up and right. Top out when the jugs end when the crack turns the arete.

 The crux comes in the first few moves and with the option of using feet on the opposing wall to make the climb easier (probably v3+/v4-). This option may seem contrived but the cruxes climb differently with one being more subtle and core dependent while the other forces longer moves between the better holds.

The Pond Cave Traverse

start on lower left jug rail (feet for gravity hits)   up the quartz line into who needs hueco to finish. end on lip service nice addition makes for a better finish

Hueco Dreams

Start on Hueco Dreams jug and traverse right into the Leap Frog dyno.

Woke Sloth

start same as quiet Buddhist on big jug rail traverse into who needs hueco then finish up lip service.

Feeling Needy

Start sitting on the low jug in the back corner of the hueco cave. Traverse left through holds in the crack running along the left side of the cave. Say goodbye to the spiders and top out directly above where the left wall meets the face.This problem is surprisingly fun for a dabby one, and there's a lot of potential for linkups / extensions.

Hueco Spiders

Calling all short scrunchy climbers, do I have a problem for you.  Hidden up in a cave above Pond Cave Area your way through some overhung moves into a very delicate and difficult topout. Make sure to not touch any rock or tree other than the overhung portion or you lose.

Rock is Lava

Starts sitting on a jug under the roof to the left of the start of the Pond Cave Traverse. Make a big move as far up the arête as you can, then use a cool hold in the roof to join the arête and top out up and left using heel hooks, the same as for the Buddhist. Basically, start left under the roof and join the Buddhist as far up the arête as you can.

 For bonus points, you can start on the jug to the right (start hold of the Buddhist) and low traverse under the lip to the left to the start hold of Quiet Buddhist and then proceed from there.

The Quiet Buddhist

Sit start at obvious arete to the right of the start of Leap Frog. You can use the big shelf for your feet or, to make it harder, don't use the shelf. Make your way up on decent pinch holds to a dyno that gains the right end of the crack of the pond cave traverse. Finish above as for Pond Cave Traverse on jugs.

Pond Cave Arete

Same beginning sequence as for Leap Frog but instead of doing the dyno just traverse right and top out as for Pond Cave Arete.

Centipede

A very fun dyno using some uncharacteristic rock for lincoln woods.  Start low on underclings in the quartzite on the right side of the cave.  Move up mostly using crimps in the vertical crack and join the Pond Cave Traverse crack at its midway point.  Grab a jug up and left and then launch yourself up and right to a decent hold over the lip that is both far away and hard to see (scope out ahead).  Top out from there.  This is a fun problem to try even if V7 is outside of your range.

Leap Frog

another variation of leap frog.eliminate lower block for feet .start on the underclings in quartz block make hard move to the angled crack and move right to the arete keep those feet up! and make a few slotty bumps up crimps and finish straight up the arete.

Under the Grid

Start on Pond Cave traverse but halfway through the traverse climb up and finish up on the Leap Frog dyno.  Might be better in total than the direct start of Leap Frog.  Not any harder really but very fun moves.

Pond Cave Direct

Why top out the same old same old classic climbs you've done countless times before. With this line you get the satisfaction of the fun classic moveset with a topout incorporating a bit more of an adrenaline rush.

Rogue Buddhist

Start all the way left on the quartz underclings eliminating the lower block and work up the left pinches with some techy foot work. Finish Leap Frog. This makes the entrance moves much harder. fun!

Leap Frog Variation

Start on the large hueco that tops out Gravity Hits, traverse right along the lip of the pond cave until you almost hit the top out to Quiet Buddhist. Nice jugs and heel hooks the whole way. Top out as you reach the left side of the prow that is Quiet Buddhist

Lip Service

Start the same as Who Needs Hueco but instead of doing the big dyno move right (looking in the cave) on small holds topping out right of Who Needs Hueco.  Contrived.

Hueco Nightmares

Another eliminate for Leap Frog, start on the same big underclings as for Leap Frog (or start on the sloping undercling a bit over to the left) and move up the crack on the right, move up to the jugs on the Pond Cave Traverse, and finish on the Pond Cave Traverse, the block is off. Basically an eliminate of the lower block on Centipede, an easier version of Under the Grid.

Leap Frog Eliminate

Sit start for Sphincteral Agony. The block is off.

Sphincteral Agony SDS

Start as for Leap Frog and climb up to good hold above crack.  Instead of making the big dyno for Leap Frog, move left through small holds to a high scary topout.

Sphincteral Agony

The Pond Cave is a longer cliff band that nearly climbs over the water and holds some of the steepest climbing in the woods with quality problems ranging from v3-v10.  The pond cave traverse and who needs hueco are must do problems for anyone who climbs regularly at Lincoln Woods. 

  Winter sun and summer shade but it can be a mosquito nightmare.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pond Cave