This route was finally bolted for sport in Sept 2011 (with permission from Mike Dahlberg).

HYPER CLASSIC.   Route immediately left of Sigma.   Stick clip first bolt or climb good holds to first.   Has a little bit of everything; liebacking, stemming, pinching, crimping, jamming, pocket-filling and a redpoint crux guarding the anchors. A very special line.     Hard to believe that two routes of this caliber exist right beside each other in Minnesota. Believe it.    This, along with all five routes in this area, were first climbed by Dahlberg circa 1988.   First Lead Ascent by Sean Ferrell.

Nexus

Wild Things

The Niche

Tool Boy

Nakoma (formerly The Niche)

Sigma

Route immediatley right of Sigma.  Follow right facing accute corner to roof.  Pull through inobvious moves to somewhat runout section to top.  Anchors on left wall or top out.  Solid 9-10 trad-leaders will enjoy this--others may not.

This route shares the same start as Tool Boy but traverses along the horizontal seam into the bolted mid-face dihedral and continues up the crack to the anchors. The start has changed with the collapse of the large flake and probably for the better. While the Niche needs a few pieces of gear to get off the ground, it borrows its bolts from and overlaps almost entirely with Nakoma. This is a sport climb for strong trad climbers and moderate boulderers. Strong boulderers, move along, and trade the gear for a long stick clip.

The main feature of this route is the dihedral and the crack above. If you don't want to bother with the hangboard traverse (or attempt the boulder problem on Nakoma), you have two options. You can jug up the first 20 feet, or on TR, climb up and right, and take a swing into the bottom of the dihedral.  In difficulty, starting here feels like about 11d.

Up flakes on Wild Things (don't trust flake for pro) to a stance on horizontal ledge leading to right.  Walk on air across traverse to stance below roof and in corner.  Up to roof then out right to hidden, hanging off hands crack to anchors right of final outside corner.

A pumpy route. Have the belayer be watchful for the 3rd clip. Clean line with good moves. There are a couple of spots with a bit of crumbly rock.   Not so much of a distinct crux, linking together is the key, IMO.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sigma Wall