A couple hundred feet past Last Rites on the right hand side of the main canyon of South fork. A difficult slab route with two distinct cruxes.

The first is a funky mantle to some delicate sidepulls and the second is a strenuous and delicate step up smear to a pinch. The rest of the pitch is fun and aesthetic.

Hall of Smears

looks pretty straight forward.  1 bolt to protect the start.

Hueco Direct Start

Hueco climb which I believe was put up by Matt Barley. Six bolts of overhangy sandstone to anchors.

I Stab Ourselves

Crux is after the first bolt then makes way to easier climbing at the top.

Southern Comfort

From the trail head, hike up canyon to the fifth wash on your left (just before the big sandy steps at the base of the debris dam). Hike up the wash (north) to the base of the south face of Paria Point. The route ascends a slab behind a large ponderosa pine. There are two distinct cruxes one low and one high. There is also a variation that avoids the hard climbing and drops the rating to 5.10c: Instead of climbing the bolt line directly, scamper up a shallow corner to the right and follow a line of 3 drilled angles that traverse in above the crux.

High Noon

Arete Sport Climb

This is the crack that is visible on the small formation behind (North of) the small seasonal pond (usually filled in with grass) just above the debris dam on the hike up south fork. The crack starts out nice and varnished but soon turns scary and decomposed. Walk off the top.

Altered States

Scramble up easy 4th class and belay from atop this ledge.  Ascend the crack, placing 1-3 inch cams in sketchy sandstone.  Beware, the roof overhead is unstable bombs, waiting to drop.  Move right around this, into a solid crack and rest on a huge ledge.  Keep moving up, placing gear anytime solid rock permits.  The top move is the crux.  Move to the opening to the left and grovel on slopers until you can top out.

Shotgun

Tango begins just left of Tail of the Cock on Rooster Pinnacle.

Pitch 1 - Start out with 5.10a moves protected by small stoppers.  Lieback and jamming follows for 30 feet to a very comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch 2 - Continue up 10 feet, traverse left across a platform until you can step further left across to the main crack.  Small wired's and tcu's protect thin face moves up to clip a bolt, then left onto a small ledge.  Traverse up and right from here reaching for an angled ledge and huecos above.  Continue jamming and liebacks to a platform. Step left clipping a second bolt and continue up and left to anchors.

Tango

Fred Beckey

The good? It's in an awesome place and has some fun, yet challenging, friction and slab moves. The bad? It has some challenging friction and slab moves.

"ET" Extremely Tough Slab

Yet another slab climb.  A brief blank section by the fourth bolt leads to a shallow hueco.  Angle slightly left after the last bolt to the chains.

Pulp Friction

Across from the dramatic, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste" is a beautiful grey slab.  This area currently contains 6 lines.  From left to right they are:

Unknown Project:  Only two bolts thus far.

Extremely Tough Slab:  5.11d with a 5.13 extension (rumored).

Pins and Needles:  5.11a.

Pulp Friction:  5.10c.

Sand Surfin':  5.10b - currently a cracked hanger at bolt #2 and potentially very dangerous.

Self Abuse:  5.9 and a variation of Sand Surfin' that begins at it's third bolt and dodges off straight left to another line of bolts.

All of the climbs are generally well-protected slabs of varying difficulty proportional to the steepness of the wall.  I recommend starting with Sand Surfin' (skip Self Abuse) and working your way left down the wall until you get shut down.

Sand Surfin'

Four pitches of slab climbing, face and chimney to the top out.

Expecting

There is a bolt to help protect the start.  follow the crack to the top of the formation to some face moves.

Center Route

Follow the corner crack all the way to the top of the formation.  It gets loose at the top and the crux is in the middle of the climb. From the top you can rappel down or try out new sport climbs that someone put up traversing onto some huecos.

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Tail Of The Cock

Almost all the way back the canyon on the north east wall. Their is another similar looking line up canyon but not as clean directly across canyon from the route Last Rights. It would be easy to get the two confused. (The old MP photo was of this route) The easiest way to locate this line for me is if you walk up canyon as going to the namaste wall on your right is a arching crack with a brand new single bolt at the bottom. It is directly across canyon from this. Some binoculars will help any adventure in Kolob.

Xanadu

Hueco Traverse

After passing above the old debris dam and flood plain and hiking up canyon just about 200' west of Namaste on the South wall. This route is just left (East)of a huge left facing arch.

A bouldery start to a left trending flake (2 bolts) gets one to an obvious arching crack. Traverse into the crack and it goes from fingers to hands in about 45 to the belay chains.

When I first climbed this on aid in 1987 I found an old 2" angle lying in the dirt in a pod at the current rap anchor. I would LOVE to know who did the FA and when. There are faint bathook scars below the crack if you look carefully.

Last Rites

Across from the dramatic, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste" is a beautiful grey slab (the Marmot Slab). This area currently contains 6 lines. From left to right they are:

Unknown Project: Only two bolts thus far.

Extremely Tough Slab: 5.11d with a 5.13 extension (rumored).

Pins and Needles: 5.11a. - tan bolt hangers.

Pulp Friction: 5.10c. - about 75 feet right of Pins and Needles and 5 feet left of a left-facing flake.

Sand Surfin': 5.10b - also left of a left-facing flake. Currently a cracked hanger at bolt #2 and potentially very dangerous.

Self Abuse: 5.9 and a variation of Sand Surfin' that begins at it's third bolt and dodges off straight left to another line of bolts.

All of the climbs are generally well-protected slabs of varying difficulty proportional to the steepness of the wall. I recommend starting with Sand Surfin' (skip Self Abuse) and working your way left down the wall until you get shut down.

Pins and Needles

This is a beautiful zig-zagging splitter finger crack on a black varnished wall. With the crux about 2/3 the way up.

Spiderfinger

Rad sampler of local climbing.  4 pitches of slab, aid, cracks, towers, and sexy ledges make this a kick ass adventure. Register on top may need paper and a pen from this decade.

The route has been completely freed out to the left of the aid section.

This route is older than mountain project. Find trip reports and more info by searching for “Special Sauce” on

rockclimbing.com

Special Sauce

Self Abuse

The crux is definitely passing the bolts and traversing to the crack. Beautiful jamming and liebacks follow until it is possible to face climb on solution pockets, protecting in the crack. Toward the top, hollowed out solution pockets may be tied off with runners to protect the final moves. Rappel the route.

Touch Me Fall

Hueco 2nd Pitch

This may have been my first, FA. It is a thin hand crack. The crux is at the top, where the crack thins out and requires a lung for a ledge.

Description

Protection

Routes in South Fork