This is one of the few warm ups at North Clear.  Look for 4 bolts in the gray rock.

Warm up route

Originally done by Steve Goins as a ridiculously pumpy gear climb this amazing route was later retro bolted.  Super steep and unrelenting.  No hard moves really but quite the pump.  A most inspiring line. 

  A somewhat loose 40 foot section starts things off but at the ledge rock quality improves.  Fun crack moves, jugs, and a few crimps get you to a rest.  A big move takes you to the juggy roof.  The upper headwall is steep and pumpy. 

   The climbing isn't over at the shuts.  Move left at the anchors for more steep juggy moves.  This allows you to climb all the way to the very top of the cliff.  You could mantle the lip even.  A long pitch.  Done this way it's perhaps 5.12 c/d. 

Stone Temple Pilots aka (Rumors of War)

Slab start to ledge. Pull onto the face, through some easy stuff then through a few techy moves below the buldge. Pull the buldge at the top and scramble to anchors.

The Real McCoy

Starts on the far right end of the Rasputin ledge on the chossy bolted arete.  The arete is super loose but the upper headwall makes up for it.  Crank hard moves out the roof to gain entry to the steep corner.  Crank hard moves up the corner.  Sustained climbing. 

Tempest

Youth in Asia

A small crack system leads through or arround a small roof then up on a short face climb to a tree ledge

Fox's toys

Start on the blocks, work up to a ledge with a small roof. Work up to the left-facing dihedral and move on up to the anchors.

Robber's Roost

This route is not the typical Obed experience.  Start on some good hold and make your way up facey moves on crimps.  Eventually, you will make it to a big ledge to rest.  Clip the bolt and get ready to do some slab moves to past a bulge.  Scampering with then lead you to the anchors.

Acquiescence

The companion climb next to Green Arrow but not quite as dapper.

Green Envy

This line is a little confusing at first only because the first ledge at approximately 40' has a double bolt anchor. If you only want to do the lower section this is fine, but I would not recommend doing this route in two pitches. The 5.8+ crux is right off this ledge and a fall here so close to the anchor would be not so good. 

  Start by climbing the left facing corner to  an awkward bulge to the previously mentioned ledge. Take rest and pull the bulge above the ledge with a handcrack. Continue through a couple more 5.8 moves in a very nice and well protected hand crack. Traverse left near the top to find double bolt anchors at a spacious ledge. 

  Dixie Cragger's Atlas notes an alternate finish up and right, but I saw nothing that looked like it would go at 5.8 or less to the right; however it looked like an easy 4th class to the top continuing to the left past the belay ledge. 

  This is a great climb with challenging crux that is a little exposed and very worthy of your attention. 

Alpine Dihedral

Located between Saddam Hussein and 441, this route, named for my dad, Truman, begins approximately 15 feet to the right of a couple of cedar trees on the left side of the Shale Wall.  Climbs the slightly overhanging, bouldery and powerful face for the first 40 feet or so, pulls two distinct bulges onto a vertical section, and then launches into the monstrous roof with big moves between mostly good holds. 

  This route is a product of teamwork.  In the Obed guidebook, Stan Wallace quotes Craig Stannard as saying, “We’re all standing on the shoulders of others.”  I have personally been working with the appropriate land managers on getting access to bolt this route for about five years now, but the process began long before that.  Thanks to Rick Bost and John Nowell for allowing me to stand on their shoulders! 

The Obed bolting moratorium is still in effect; no other new routes are allowed at this time.  If you have any questions concerning new route potential at North Clear, please contact me at bjones@acs.ac   

  -Brian

The Truman Show Project

Arguably one of the best 5.12 climbs at the Obed. Perfect rock. Sustained climbing. Great Pro. Crux at the very end. In an area of sport routes this climb is a fantastic testpiece for those looking for a little bit more excitement and challenge. Robinson scored a gem from the locals and fortunately inspired a few to put up a few trad routes of their own.

Hang on to your ego

Actually a super fun route - it has a bit of everything. The line protects well and is now equipped with anchors. Follow the right facing dihedral at the bottom and when in doubt move right through the roof.

Let Go My Eggo

The crux is probably the move off the ground, which is protected with a bolt.

Sane Addiction

"Start on the arete just right of the alcove.  Avoid the roofs by working right around them." 

  Spotter encouraged at start of route, pro here is spotty.

Buster Brown

  An interesting and steep sport climb.  The upper headwall is very exposed and has some cool rests.  A spicy runout to the chains keeps things interesting.

Puff the magic dragon

Obvious crack to the right of puff the magic dragon. Even though this thing looks wide don't skimp on the smaller protection! A really fun, physical climb. Move through the crux midroute to the overhung perfect handjam crack for the last 15 feet or so of the route. 

 Stays dry when most other cracks are wet!

 Now equipped with anchors. 

Swiss Chocolate

Fun overhanging blocky climbing through the slot leads to an arete. Cruise through the airness to the top.

Under the Gun

This Route starts on a ledge that is a few hundred feet from the south clear descent trail. Climb a beautiful white face with technical crimps, lie backs, and a few well deserved jugs. Has recently been rebolted. Very fun movement with the only downfall being that the route is short. If you have medium gear, the belayer can be anchored in a horizontal below the first bolt because the belayer is right next to a big drop from the ledge.  

Dyslexia

This climb has a lot of the character of its neighbor youth in asia. Really fun juggy climbing that gets real pumpy with good protection in horizontals. 

The Prospect

"Climb the prow to the top of the buttress.  Often wet."

Beacon

Little roof to begin, a long move in the middle, and a fun roof at the top. Lots of spiders up there.

Smiley Face

Not terribly classic but a great challenge.  The start is just crappy  you can't avoid it but, the upper section of this climb is on really great rock with some cool roof moves.  Good gear and bolted anchors.   Previously unreported.  Led free on preplaced gear in 2002 with Brady Robinson belaying.

Old and in the way

We always knew this route would be bad ass and it took the dynamic duo of KB and the Dew man to pull it off.  A very adventuresome climb through intimidating terrain.  I doubt this thing gets done once a year if that.  Only .12a this climb looks worse than it is but get ready cause you just might get humbled.

The Black Hole

Despite the chossy ledge midway and silly name I feel this route is a classic.  Above the 1/3 height ledge the rock changes to some of the most clean and textured stone I've ever seen.  The position near the top is fantastic.  AND the climb is nearly always dry, even in a downpour like most of the routes here.

Saddam Hussein

Climb up the wavy, huecoed rock to a stance below a roof. Pull the roof and continue on fun plates on easier terrain to the top of the cliff. There is no anchor, but there is a pretty good tree. As of April 2020, equipped with a shiny anchor thanks to ETCC. You will need a 70m rope to get down.

Vulture Culture

Excellent sequential and flow-y climbing. The route stops at the first set of anchors under the big roof, going out the roof is a closed project. 

 Another classic on the shale wall. 

Truman Show Face

Slab start, a few techy moves off the ledge then either stay right of the bolt line for harder (11c) climbing with big moves or stay left on the arete for more balancy 11a climbing.

Swiss Family Robinson

"On the right side of the alcove, find the path of lease resistance working up and right, skirting the roofs." 

  Often wet.

Dude with a Tude

Just right of the huge Rasputin Roofs is an obvious 2"-3" crack.  Scramble up the easy 5th class to the base of the crack and belay or continue climbing.  Crank the hard entry move (5.10ish) and climb the surprisingly easy crack to the roof.  Traverse across the giant horizontal and clip the first bolt.   

  Either crimp down or throw for the huge jug out and left.  Control the swing and set up to pull the lip.  Once over climb an easier crack and belay.  There should be bolts but the anchor may need a little love.  Extremely exposed.  A great little adventure.

The Drop Zone

This route is sustained with about a 10-15 degree overhang and pretty large holds the whole way.

Haulin' 'n Ballin'

This thing is 5.9 in the guidebook but I found it a bit harder than the neighbor. I don't think it is quite PG13 but certainly PG. Definitely worth getting on! Good climbing that feels a little more sporty after the tougher start

You Could be Mine

"Perhaps the consciousness one needs to find to send. First done on gear." Great technical face climbing like its two neighbors to the left. Cool roof sequence and spaced out permadraws gets you to the lip.

Altered States

Steep face climbing that stays dry in the rain.  A thin section just before mid way is the crux but a few off balance moves up higher keep the pump going.  A bit loose in spots.

Witches Broom

Climbs the corner of the large right-facing dihedral on the Sun Ledge. A lot funner than it looks.

No Sandwich Shall Be Left Untouched

This amazing climb captured the imagination of Knoxville climbers for a long time before most of them had the skills to get on it.  A ridiculously overhanging pitch.  Robinson and Goins demonstrated to the Knoxville climbing community what hard trad was all about when they put this route up.

Southern Hydraulics

Short, slopey, and bouldery. Powerful moves coming out of the cave with a hard sloper crux between bolts 2 and 3. Helps to have draws hung. A great sport climb for boulderers. Will clean up nicely with more traffic. 

Homeboy

Goes up black lichen and white streaks, horizontals and hand jams. Mostly straight up, diagonals left to weakness in roof. Crux is the leaning dihedral at the top.

Canus Roofus

A fun corner which starts as a left facing dihedral and finishes in a right facing dihedral 

The Real Poison Ivy

The climb starts with a few fun crack moves up to a huge ledge. The climb continues on large flakes up and right. The movement is really interesting and varied. Once the last bolt is clipped, keep climbing right even though the anchors are straight above you. Once you're even with the shuts, move back left to clip. Be careful here, having a long reach comes in really handy.

Spellbound

Climb up the face to a slightly over-hung area until reaching the roof. mantle up on to the top of the roof to a super sharp hold. Get a good foot and clip the bolts.

Arachnophobia

Start off the right hand side of the shale slope and leap to the starting hold (use the belayer bolt and have your belayer unclip it when you are at the third bolt). Rowdy...

Rambo

This mega line is the only route on the intimidating Bee Wall.  Fun jug hauling gets you to a thin section on the face.  If you go left here it's around .11b, go right and its solid .12.  The choice is yours.  Rest up on the ledge then crank layback and crack moves to one more thin move to the anchor.   

  The route continues up the super steep headwall and tiered roofs.  The rest of the climb is .11d or so.  This is a killer adventuresome route that deserves more traffic.  The first "pitch" or half of the route seemed about .12b to me although the guide gives it 12d.

Steep climbing on perfect stone... wild exposure/positioning!

 As with The Truman Show Project, I (and many others) worked very closely with the land managers for a number of years to get access to bolt this particular route.  The Obed bolting moratorium is still in place; no other new routes are allowed at this time.

If you have any questions about new route potential at North Clear, please contact me at bjones@acs.ac.

The White House Project

climb a technical face below a small roof crack, pull over the buldge and follow the jugs to the top. 

Thunder Road

The Magnificent 7 climbs the prominent ships prow arete directly above Witches Broom. It is arguably the most classic arete climb at the Obed, and perhaps in all of Tennessee in my biased opinion. The stone is legit flawless and the position is super out there. You'll definitely be checking your knot up there.

 The crux is at the very top and employs a divine sequence of moves that makes you wonder if it was intelligently designed. It is not a quick tick and requires some advanced sport climbing rope techniques. However, It is worth the effort.

 The full pitch requires you to climb techy thin face, burly roof and crack moves, and finish with delicate and balancey arete climbing. It'll test you.

The Magnificent 7

Start in a shallow dihedral about 200 meters right of the approach pitch of Sun Ledge. Tricky protection but fun climbing. 

Foy's Toy

Crosspickin'

Step off the boulder at the base and climb jugs (a few of which are loose, beware) to a rest at bolt 2, then push through a 4 or 5 move boulder problem on decent crimps and slopers, going right to a jug. A strenuous clip at 3 leads to high left feet and jugs to the top.

Miss Thang

Start on the smooth face and after the second bolt trend right. Look for the perfect hand sized hueco  for your left hand to keep moving. Move through the fun and gymnastic overhung area until just below the short roof. Pull the lip (crux) for good views and 5.9 climbing to the shuts!

Ship's Ahoy

This climb is located further down stream from the big roofs at North Clear.  Its the most obvious and pure crack line at the Obed.  You can't miss the soaring overhanging crack.  A very demanding pitch of climbing and highly unusual for the Obed.

Liposuctor

Climbs the face between Sane Addiction and No Sandwich Shall Be Left Untouched. There is a cold shut and a chain at the top, which can be used to rappel into the Sun Ledge.

Tempter

70m required. A great climb. Starts with a fingery boulder problem followed by easy climbing on sandy rock. Once you pull onto the left side of the arete enjoy the fun techy and sustained climbing with a Crux on crimps to the chains. Stays in the shade most of the day.

Bad Press

Nocturnal Animals

This route starts out with some dirty climbing, and has 2 dangerous loose blocks.  But the upper 50 ft may be the funnest 5.10 climbing you'll ever do, with several heel hooks and numerous big moves between huge holds on aesthetic rock.  Don't pull on the huge pancake rock right of the first bolt(easier to avoid than it looks), or the flake up and right of the last bolt.

 This route is either climbable from the ground, or by climbing one of the 5.easy approaches and building an anchor on the ledge.  If climbing from the ground, consider bringing a couple pieces to protect the dirty 5.6 direct start and then extend the first bolt.

Sysiphus

  A steep and commiting crux makes for one of the best (and only) trad routes at the grade.

The Green Arrow

Big, big roof climbing on big holds.  A little bit intimidating.  The face is difficult too.  Crank this one off and you're ready for the Stephen King Library.

Scalded Dog

Put by Sites and Martin over the course of several trips this is surely the longest route in Tennessee.  Its a traverse but so what.  These guys thought outside the box and put up a great voyage through some extremely challenging terrain.  Thin face, wide crack, pumping footless climbing.  This climb will reward those seeking adventure with some real good memories. 

  Has probably never seen a one day ascent.  Named for a snake skin found over 100' up a cliff in overhanging terrain.

The Horizontal Skins

Overhanging wide crack with a roof at the top. A little dirty at the bottom. Suprisingly featured and good rock. Easier than it looks. Mostly stemming in the lower and upper part and chimneying in the middle. One of the best moderate trad routes at North Clear in my opinion.

The Serpent

"Obvious fat chimney.  This is also the start to Horizontal Skins, a 5.11 multi-pitch trad traverse for those seeking big adventure."

Skins Chimney

Super Classic roof climbing.  KB worked on this for a while and shoulder injuries kept him from the FFA.  I'm not sure about Litz doing the FFA but I've got a good hunch... If anyone knows let me know.

Rasputin D. Scaliwag

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Routes in North Clear Creek