Nightmare Traverse

One Cigarette Makes It Murder

The Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE) was organized and incorporated in 1992 as a result of then head ranger Bob Toll’s request to create a process that would allow the climbing community to approve or disapprove the addition of new fixed protection in the Park. In the late 1980s, the placement of bolts became a topic of controversy in the Boulder area. During that time, Boulder Mountain Parks and City and County Open Space prohibited the placement of new bolts. These actions substantially changed certain climbs and enraged many local climbers. As a result of this well-meant, but misdirected effort, some of the new bolts were chopped. Bob Toll approached several active local climbers and informed them that the Park was willing to work with the climbing community on these issues. The Park’s position was that Eldorado belonged to all climbers and that individuals could no longer be permitted to take unilateral actions that affected all climbers without community input. ACE designed the fixed hardware review process, which provides the climbing community with the opportunity to approve or disapprove of proposals to establish new routes requiring fixed gear and to change existing climbing routes. ACE’s role is to advise the Park as to the opinion of the local climbing community; the final decision on whether to approve the proposal rests with the Park. To obtain maximum feedback and support from the climbing community, the ACE Board of Directors is comprised of representatives from the Access Fund, the American Alpine Club, the American Mountain Guides Association, and the Colorado Mountain Club, as well as unaffiliated members drawn from the climbing community. ACE is a non-profit organization dedicated to representing climbers’ interests in Eldorado Canyon State Park and preserving the opportunity to climb and the diversity of the climbing experience in Eldorado. ACE supports conserving the natural resources and promoting responsible recreational use and land management in ECSP.

Description

Routes in Nightmare Block