Start by climbing straight up over good holds in horizontal cracks.   Head up and right aiming for the base of a short, shallow left facing corner.  Work your way up using the corner to reach a good hold in a horizontal(beginning of a long crux).  Clip the bolt and use small crimps to gain a stance.  Continue on small crimps until you reach a good flake.   From here, great holds to the finish under the roof.

Out of the Bag

Awesome line up the super blunt arete.

The Classic of the area.

Belay from the trail at the base of the arete. Scramble up the boulder the out the airy start to clip the first bolt. Continue more or less straight up with loads of hand-foot matches and balancy moves between jugs that are always just out of reach.

Rico Suave

The crux is continuing through the roof, and pulling onto the headwall. The rock looks suspect but it is all good, the draws are the ones in question. This is a fun route worth doing if you have played the rest of the 12s out.

Coal Miner's Tale

First edition guide says, "Fifty feet of straight in tips splitter crack that would look right at home in Squamish - if Squamish was covered in poison-ivy vines."  The crack was cleaned and scrubbed of all poison ivy vines in March of 21'.  This route is on par with The Shining and The Beckoning in regards to the finger locking fun, imo.  Get on it and keep this beauty clean!

Buried Treasure

5.11 climbing up to the 3rd bolt. From there pull a powerful bouldery move up to a good clipping stance for bolt 4. Take a quick rest, and power through 2 more bouldery sections past an undercling block and another long pull to a good crimp. One final pinch/hand jam move gets you to easy ground for the final two bolts. Given 13a in the book, but IMO its a bit harder than that.

Nude Brute

Climb slightly overhanging terrain up and to the left.  Continue working up and right to a big horizontal crack.  Crimp and pimp your way through the crux ( which is slightly harder than the grade because of a broken flake), then balance your way to the anchors.

Not on the First Date

How do you tie this thing? I forgot my harness this day so I decided to make my own. When I got home I looked up how to tie a real swiss seat, which was very different from whatever I came up with that day. Best part is I totally whipped in the thing trying to hang the draws on Pockets!

Anyway, climb the wide corner left of Second Thoughts and follow the arching crack to the anchors of Totally Tammy

Swiss Seat

Climb Second Thoughts then blast through the sequency finger crack roof. Currently this has a tat anchor that hangs just below the roof to avoid the rope getting caught in the crack, we applied for a bolt anchor permit months ago, which will mitigate this issue and have the route finish at the stance after the roof pull. For now, hang and drop from the stance after the roof for full credit.

Brooks and I had a lot of fun tag-teaming this sneaky little sequential crack and figuring out beta, it took us each 3 goes and a lot of beta-trading, can you figure it out in less? Good luck.

Third, Fourth, and Fifth Thoughts

Thin, technical climbing that will keep you thinking. Plenty of ways to move through it, trick is finding the simplest. Save some gas and stretch for the last move.

Pockets of Resistance

Balance your way up the left facing corner using all the tricks in your bag - stems, laybacks, jams and hip scums - until you are under the roof and at the anchor. For additional fun try the traverse over to the anchors on the right...

Second Thoughts

The crux is likely figuring out what holds to trust navigating the roof of this climb. There is a big block on the ledge towards the left side before pulling onto the face that is quite the rocker. Large and may come off, tread with caution. The upper crack on the headwall is the hardest part, save some small gear and sew it up. Make sure to extend the pieces in the roof traverse to manage rope drag.

Mississippi Mike

Begin 20' right of 'The Good Ol' Days' by scrambling up to a low angle hand crack. Climb this and skank right, aiming for a little bulge feature that protects with a gray master cam. Mantle up on to this and get a stance. Proceed mostly straight up to the base of an overhang and get good pro. Follow path of least resistance up to a short finger crack in a roof. Pull this to a decent hold and climb onto a giant flake feature in the hanging dihedral (hard to see from ground) that you'll follow to its end, gaining another stance just left of the flake's end to a surreal position. Get more gear and climb up and right for another 15-20' to a two pin anchor with webbing and rap rings.

This route has an adventurous feel to it and requires creative gear placements in a couple places. With that being said, it's quite good and offers a spectacular view of endless wall with amazing positions for the leader.

Louisiana Lou and the Tickler of Poon

Scramble up a couple ledges and then begin laybacking- fingers at the bottom to fists at the top.  Small edges and feet outside the crack are helpful.  A couple of good hand jams in the middle.  Short but pumpy.

The Good Old Days

Uninflatable Ewe is a seldom-done line up the white face to the left of Totally Tammy.  The difficulties begin right at the first bolt, with a seemingly stopper move prohibiting you from getting established on the face.  Two more bouldery cruxes and some memorable, holdless slabbing get you to a tenuous stance at the roof.  Make the clip, and enjoy cranking on sculpted holds past one more bolt to the anchors.  The lichen looks prohibitive, but soldier on... all the holds you need are clean.  This route has amazing, out-of-the-box movement and should be on any technician's tick list.

Uninflatable Ewe

Pick your line and dance up the less-than-vertical face on thin moves.

Totally Tammy

Climb the flake up and to the left to the roof, crossing Grit and Bear It. Step out to the right to the shared anchor.

Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey)

bouldery crux down low. Vertical face climbing.

Trouble in Paradise

Start on the block just right of the arete. Climb up on left side of the arete till about the 4th or 5th bolts, then swing onto the right side and layback the sloping arete. The layback section is excellent, balancy fun. Easy climbing after this brings you to the anchors

Preparation H

Easy, ledgy holds lead to tougher climbing up high, with some balancy slab-esque moves.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. Rico Suave Buttress