Steep double crack system with juggy finish.

Fractured Fissure

This is the direct start to Circe. Instead of starting on The Eye, begin on the 5.8 offwidth directly below Circe. This avoids the unappealing start to Circe and makes it into a nice climb. It was climbed by Mike Duncan and me on 28 March 2001, but we doubt that was a first ascent even though it's not listed in the guidebooks.

Circe Direct

Directly across from Masochism on the Potato Head are two parallel right slanting cracks on the lower north face of the Cyclops. Climb the left crack, finishing with an overhang formed by a boulder (height related  harder if short).

The I

The route is the obvious crack on the extreme right of the northwest face of Cyclops. Setting protection is a bit problematic, and tis a bit runout in one spot. This route acquired its name due to a leader fall on the FA. FA 1966.

Leader's Fright

Directly across from Masochism on the Potato Head are two parallel right slanting cracks. These cracks are on the lower north face of the Cyclops.

Climb the right hand (toward HVCG) crack.

Aye, Aye

This route ascends the middle of the SW face of Cyclops Rock -- to the right and around the corner if you're facing the Eye from the road.

Start on a right-facing ramp that is separate from the main face and ascends from the ground -- your belayer can find a nice comfortable seat between the base of the ramp and the main wall (which is extremely undercut at this point).  From the top of the ramp, a few fun moves get you around and over a large rounded flake that opens to the left.  Finally, move slightly to the left and ascend juggy plates to a two-bolt anchor.

Single rope rappel or walk-off to the east.

Spaghetti & Chili

Start on the far right end of the west face and ascend the most prominent diagonal ramp up and leftward to the anchor bolts atop Spaghetti & Chili. About halfway where this main diagonal starts to dwindle, instead of veering lower toward the "cave" along Penelope's Walk, continue onward across that dwindling diagonal past its narrowest for exposed shuffling excitement, before it broadens again for the last few walking steps to the anchor bolts. Another route called Goldilocks (rated 5.7 in the books) crosses path near midway to go up and over two small roofs onto a lower sloping topout, if one needs an earlier easier bailout exit.

Odysseus' Shuffle

Scramble up and right on easy terrain to a large ledge and set a belay. Climb the smooth, dark brown face passing several scoops and holes in the rock (2 bolts) and then continue up aiming for a horizontal crack that leads back right and onto a ledge.

Decent climbing but the bolts are in need of an upgrade.

Telegram for Mongo

Slim Jim (aka Nightmare on Angione Street)

is a gritty

, generic friction route for the completionist only. Starting from orange ledges climb up and left via gritty scoops to pass very near the right edge of the

Ulysses' Bivouac

cave and then continue to the sub-summit above.

Down-climb

Business Trip

or continue up the upper portion of

Carolyn's Rump

or

Business Trip

to the top of the rock.

All but the middle bolt is currently missing (April 2021) making this a top-rope problem.

Slim Jim

Begins in a chimney.  At the top of this, make a right turn up some slabs to an easy crack pulling through a "roof".

Business Trip

From a short distance up The Eye, traverse right onto the exposed arête.  Exciting moves take you up the arête.  Thin protection.

Circe

This is the left bolted route on a large blank face at the base of the Northwest Face of Cyclops next or left to The Eye.  Thin face moves follow a "red line" past a bolt to an incut/mantel that lead to another bolt.  The moves out from this are the crux.    Faces the road.  Continuous and hard.

Thin Red Line

Go up a left diagonal crack when that crack dwindles choose the path of least resistance and continue up left until you get to a cave.  Move up at to the left of the cave to where it joins Are We Ourselves.  Pull the final (crux) move to the top.

Watch out for loose rock.  Some of the slab is pretty loose.

Reference: Vogel, Randy. (2006). Rock Climbing Joshua Tree West. Falcon Publishing. A great resource.

Penelope's Walk

This route ascends the southwest face of Cyclops. It starts from the left of the formation and works up and to the right, finally exiting about midway along the top of the formation. It can be started in numerous ways: begin with the bolt on "The Official Route"..., and it will be 10B; go directly for the left facing flake, and it will be much easier; start to the right and up the ledge system, minimal difficulty. Overcome the flake, work right then up. You'll find two anchors here. Go up the plates and through the notch. I've given more of a description than I usually do because this is an excellent route for a novice and for someone doing first leads around seven or eight.

Are We Ourselves

Boulder up the start until possible to clip the first bolt then work your way left to clip a second bolt. Good footwork will make the somewhat crimpy moves to the third bolt easier. Climb past a final bolt and finish up with easier moves via a short hand crack onto a ledge with anchors.

A short route that is decent enough worth doing if in the area. Originally there was another fixed pin before the first bolt - it may be possible to get a small (0.5")piece in if necessary. Additionally one can get a 2.5" piece in the crack section at the top if needed.

The hard moves and the bulk of the climbing are well protected and it has an anchor- so I'd call it a sport route. Two stars out of five.

Gray Cell Green

On the Northeast Face, climb up face and cracks past the left side of a big brown scoop. At the right side of another brown scoop, a crack leans up and right. Follow this past a diagonal slash. Move right past a bolt to another right leaning crack and up.

Overnight Sensation

Start from the desert floor in a scoop and face climb up past some horizontals (pro) to the first bolt about 40' up. Interesting friction past two more bolts leads up and right to the left margin of a small cave/recess where you will find another bolt. Steep friction moves (crux) lead to the security of a good hold after which the climbing eases and some gear can be placed. One final bolt protects the moves to the top where a bolted anchor will be found. Either rappel off or do the walk-off down the backside which is quick and easy.

Those who like spicy steep friction will enjoy this route out as it offers engaging climbing with a minimal approach. A little sporty but safe, this route is perhaps best done on a cool day or when shady for maximum security.

About the name - the 1984 summer Olympics were held in Los Angeles and at that time everything it seemed was marketed with the Official Olympic tie-in, so it seemed only natural to have an "Official Route".

The Official Route of the 1984 Olympics

A great beginner route with excellent exposure. Rated 5.1 in Vogel's guidebook, this route in my opinion warrants a slightly stiffer rating. Begin in alcove up low-angle crack. Continue onto steep face with great holds to the top. Gear belay.

Also makes for a nice free solo at the end of the day.

Descent: walk east down the backside and back around (north) to your pack.

The Eye

A classic steep face climb!  A difficult and scary sequence leads up to the first bolt (don't fall here!).  Sustained, exciting, and somewhat runout climbing goes up from there.

Surface Tension

Easy terrain leads up and right onto a ledge and the base of a smooth dark face. Finesse your way up, staying right of some prominent holes in the rock and then trend left of the first bulge and continue above passing several horizontal cracks to the top.

Stairway to Heaven

This route climbs up sandy and gritty cracks and lie-backs up to a traverse into a cave. You can rap from the cave (one old bolt..) or climb easy 5th class to the summit.

The climbing aint' all that good, but the cave is very cool.

Ulysses' Bivouac

An easy chimney becomes steep and shallow for its crux exit sequence.  The scramble down is a bit tricky - the easiest way is to climb up to the top of the rock and then go down the back side.  This climb is in the shade most of the time.

Carolyn's Rump

This route is located between Are We Ourselves and Grey Cell Green.  Start by climbing 10' or so to a bolt at the bottom of a large scoop, then head straight up over a bulging left-facing flake - small cam behind the flake if you trust it.  After manteling on top of the flake, clip the pin buried in a seam above (easy to miss).  Then diagonal up and right to the anchors atop Grey Cell Green.  Start the second pitch by moving up and left to the first bolt on a vague arete, then follow bolts and pins straight up to the top of the formation.

The last bolt has a bail link on it - don't quit now!  The moves above the bolt are steep, but a few better-than-expected edges will get you to the final short exit crack.

Fun route that will get better as it cleans up.  Two stars out of five.

New Year's Day

Seldom done but worth the effort is this right slanting flare with twin cracks that steepen near the top before ending on a ledge. Continue up and left and then back right on easy terrain to the summit and descend the backside.

Oversight

Some runout 5.8 face moves halfway up lead to a crux exit move in a bulging corner.

Goldilocks

Start off the large ledge and climb a bolted face with horizontals, being careful of loose flakes up higher.

Dino Damage

Just left of Carolyn's Rump is a groove with vertical solution pockets leading up to a big nest next to a rap station on a slung horn.

Stem and pinch your way up this thing and try to console or shame yourself with the guidebook 5.6 rating as you sketch like mad on weird holds and sloping stances.

Foul Fowl

"Joshua Tree National Park (formed as a Monument in 1936, and designated National Park
 status in 1994) has long enjoyed a reputation as a world-class climbing
 mecca. For many decades climbers from around the world have come to 
experience its steep cracks, exposed slabs, and huge granite domes."

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cyclops Rock