A cool short crack with a weird switcharoo move out the small roof.   Climb past rotten rock at the bottom to gain the cool short finger crack/corner.  Move out roof to another short crack and a face.  Climb the face and arete to the left and up to an anchor under the huge roof.  Note:  This route can be done in somewhat rain condition due to the enormous roof above.

Switcharoo

This is a very short but super fun route with an interesting mix of climbing. It gets afternoon shade.

Climb the face up to a seam where some shallow gear can be placed. Move up to a stance and a bolt then a thin face move to good holds and gear. Move up and right to finish on the short but fun seam/crack (crux). Bolt anchor on top.

Entrance Route

Climbs the face and pseudo-crack just left of garden variety to the same anchors. Short route that features cool pockets and flakes.

Gary's route

One of the coolest routes of this length around and the first one done at this crag.

Climb the fantastic all gear crack system past alternating corners to a short hanging corner at the top.  Lower from 2 stainless steel nuts at top.  Note: Anchor can be backed up easily with additional gear.  Be careful with rope drag at the middle roof.

Jackpot

Climb a face past first bolt via short corner. Continue up face past 2 more bolts and gear through some techy moves and a weird move at the last overlap below the top. Rap from tree.

Unnamed

One of the best single pitch hard gear lines in NC.  It really doesn't get much better than this for the grade. A great mix of crack and face, with some dynamic movements also.

Vaseline Machine Gun

This route recently had a bolt added to start by FA party.  Climb the chimney and arete past gear and 2 bolts to the top.  There are 2 finishes.  For the easier finish (5.8), move left to bolted anchor for Hemlock Arete.  For steeper finish (5.10-), move right and pull large roof via flake/rail -- same as for Hell In A Handbasket (bring 2 shoulder slings to extend the anchor).

Chimney Man

FA- right variation Nathan Brown, Tim Snyder		Starts up the gully right of "Slim Pickens".  Climb  past 2 bolts to a large cam (#3 or #4 camelot.  At this point there are 2 variation finishes.  The original goes left past a bolt to top.  The better finish goes right past small cam to a bolt and the top. There is a 2 bolt anchor in the boulder next to the dead tree.

Light Thoughts...

A fun chimney for the aspiring Yosemite climber!  This is a great chimney climb, with legitimate chimney climbing.  Climb the wide chimney/corner to the top.  It narrows to a squeeze chimney near the top.  Note: One large cam  (#5 or #6 camelot) protects this route quite well.  I may add some kind of fixed anchor since the tree is now dead.	Bushwhack to tree above another route to rap.

Tightsqueeze

Climb the phenomenal steep right facing corner past 1 bolt and gear to a nice rest at the top of corner.  Continue up the funky ramp past 2 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Clever Corner

This route was recently extended through the large roof block at the top.  There has been an additional bolt placed that protects the climbing to the roof.

Climb past 4 bolts and gear to a transition in the chimney just below the large roof crack block.  Climb the rail through the large roof to a 2 bolt anchor.  The roof is protected by a #3 camelot.  It is possible to use a bigger cam but it's not necessary.

Note: bring 2 shoulder length slings to extend the 2 bolt anchor for top-roping.

Hell In A Handbasket

Some of the moves on this climb resemble the top-out's on the quintesential Boone boulder problems.  Climb the arete past 3 bolt to a nice ledge and a bolt anchor in the wall above.  Due to a bad landing, stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

Slim Pickins'

Start as for Chimney Man to gain ledge.  Move left, getting a good piece of gear.  Climb the thin arete past 2 bolts to big holds and 2 more bolts to the top.  Lower from 2 bolt anchor up and right.

Hemlock Arete

Recently re-bolted/re-engineered by NB.  The original line in the hanging corner was completely abandoned in prference for the thin and interesting face instead.

This is the leftmost of the corner routes.  The best start is the moderate greenish colored left facing dihedral, although there are are a couple of possible starts.  Once at the corner, clip a pin (mainly to protect the second), then climb past small nuts/rp and a small cam to a bolted face below corner overhang.  Climb up and across the thin face to a crux move at the arete.  Finish at a 2 bolt anchor -- same as for Crimson Corner.

Creepy Corner

This climb is actually on the main wall proper, but since it is located just right of the previous two, it is listed in the pinnacle area.  Located just right of the wet corner.  Climb the thin face past 2 bolts and gear to a roof.  Traverse right under the roof to easier ground and a 2 bolt anchor.

Default Plan

A splitter crack that is guarded by a funky boulder problem start.  There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Garden Variety

This climbs the wall just right of Switcharoo, all the way to the top.  Climb the short seam past small cams and a bolt (placed after FFA) to easier ground.  Continue past 2 bolts and into crux.  Climb past small cams and one last bolt to the 2 bolt anchor at the top.  Note:  there is a good shake out at the small stance below last bolt -- use it! Gear: small wires, small cams -- nothing larger than a hand size cam.

It's about Time...

Climb easy ground up and underneath a roof.  Follow the corner out right all the way to the top.  There are a couple of hollow but seemingly secure flakes/blocks near the top so be careful there.  The anchor is 2 stainless swaged nuts at the small tree.

Casual Corner

A direct link-up (casual corner to crimson corner) was recently added that improves the quality of this line, making it a worthwhile route to do.

Start by climbing about 1/3 of casual corner to a point at which it is possible to move left on the overhanging featured arete with bolts. Climb past the bolts to merge into the upper dihedral of crimson corner. Follow it past a bolt to one last bolt above the crux (out of sight from below). Lower from same anchors on ledge.

If you want to do the origial route consider doing it as 2 short pitches due to rope drag. Directions are as folows:

Climb easier, semi loose terrain to an easy left facing corner (out of sight from ground).  At a large hollow block, move right (using the block), traversing under an overhang to a stance at the base of the crimson colored corner.  Climb this past a bolt and some cryptic moves to another bolt (shared with Creepy Corner).   Finish same as for Creepy Corner at the 2 bolt anchor on the ledge above.

Crimson Corner

Just right of Garden Variety.  Climb the wide corner to the same 2 bolt anchor.  Note:  Wide gear is not necessary.

In there like swimwear...

For the past few years there have been a number of strong climbers to gawk up at this wild roof crack, only to write it off as impossible (at least to reach -- the start is blank).  Recently, a friend  (Andrew) made a great suggestion -- do a long & pumpy downward traverse across a heel hooking rail to reach the crack... and it actually goes fairly easily, or at least the traverse does!  This climb can be done in the rainiest of conditions due to the huge roof features.

Start up and right on top of boulder -- also have your belayer here.  Climb past a #.4 camelot and 4 bolts (optional 1" cam) to the crack.  The 4th bolt has a fixed draw for now (the bolt is high because of inadequate rock lower).  Make a difficult transition into the crack and gain a desperate "rest" on the foot pedestal.  Continue out the strenuous horizontal roof crack to an anchor at the lip.

Note: The anchor was originally 15' higher than the current one.  It's possible that some gifted climber could pull the final roof (likely at 5.13), but there are some logistical issues with that.  I'd be happy to divulge more info if someone is interested.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Linville River Crag