This is one of the good ones.  Great pro, classic movement, and minimal sharpness (for Trout) combine to make this a truly all time line.  It starts out with 15' of tenuous and technical stemming capped by a vicious crux getting to and from a sharp crimp and a mono.  At this point, you're rewarded with a pseudo-shake before one more sequence of powerful lock-offs and stemming that culminates in a wild deadpoint to a jug.  I thought the bottom crux felt something like 5.12 into V6 with a 5.12+ exit sequence.  Serendipitously more or less complete recovery is possible here before casting off on the 13 minus-ish upper half.  Tackle a last hard boulder problem leaving the rest and the climbing begins to ease.  The remaining moves aren't as hard, but they're pretty sustained and the continuity creates an exciting race against the pump.

The Ideal Schedule

The beginning of this route probably warrants either a PG13 or an R depending on your head/risk tolerance.  It's also worth noting that this would be a four star route if it protected perfectly. (so if your mental game is on, go get it) 

  Climb on top of the column right of California Weakender, do an exposed boulder problem to gain the base of sketchy-looking block, and work your way up to the top of the block. (Left works well) After this climb the beautiful thin hand crack stem-box and finish pulling an exciting bulge on flaring hand jams. 

  It's possible to put a yellow tcu behind an uninspiring, small, hollow flake during the middle of the boulder problem, but it would be a very strenuous position to place from and probably isn't worth the effort due to the somewhat dubious nature of the placement.

The Question Air Box

This offwidth testpiece starts with about 10' of moves on an inside edge, then it's hand stacks, armbars, calf locks, and knee locks to the tippy top.  Enjoy!

Muffin Top

A great entry into 6'' crack climbing-- a varied start that transitions into a consistent 6'' crack.  It only stays wide for long enough to either let you get into a rhythm if you've got it, or teach you that you have none.  After which It quickly eases to fists and hands.

Adipose

Double Trouble climbs twin finger cracks that open up to off fingers/thin hands up high.  A combination of gastons, stemming, and jamming will get you to the Two Step anchors.  (10+) This is the easier version of Hip to Toe. You could also continue straight up through the slot (5.11) and top out. (gear anchor)

Double Trouble

Dig deep as the difficult tips start to this climb is only the first crux. Difficult to place gear if laybacking this part.  Where your techniques transition will dictate the location of subsequent cruxes. Getting your first knee is a relief that doesn't seem to come soon enough. Transitioning from stacking to armbarring is tricky. This climb will work you through every size and manner of big jams.

Redside

This route is super-neglected. The crux is mostly cranking hard on fingerlocks, so go get it! Climb splitter fingers and thin hands to a rest. From here figure out the funky sequence to gain a section of Wartley's Revenge-esque jugs. Finish by firing delicate and technical climbing up the crux finger and tips crack.

Out Ridin' Fences

This is the open corner directly left of Gold Rush and is easy to TR off of the GR anchors with a finger sized directional.   

  Starts with some bouldery stems and one hard crank that leads to a no hands stem rest.  The middle part of the route is a mix of laybacking and tenuous stems with one harder move thrown in.  There is small horizontal break at two-thirds height with a shitty stem rest.  Probably 13- to this point.  Above the break is probably a V6 or harder boulder problem that involves some really engaging body sequences that start as a layback, then to a stem, then to a really slippery arete move followed by a thank-god jug on the arete.   Easier climbing leads to the top and the Gold Rush anchors. 

  Your toes and calf muscles better be in good shape for this one.  They will surely get pumped up there. 

  A bit of FA history.  I've heard the line had been tr'd by a few different people over the years due to its proximity to Gold Rush but no serious attempts besides Tommy Caldwell.  Rumor has it that he tried it maybe 6 times over a couple days but never came away with the redpoint.  I started attempting it my 2nd day climbing at Trout and quickly became obsessed with it.  I spent two and a half sporadic years working on it and probably a total of 40 or so tr and lead burns.  Finally sent it on cold (high of 37°F) November day. 

  And as far as the rating goes, I found it pretty hard to rate.  Somedays it would feel impossible for me but when I finally redpointed it, it didn't feel too bad.  Others that TR'd it felt the 13+ rating was warranted but I thought maybe more like mid 5.13.  I've been told I am a sandbagger and am trying to change that so I went with the possibly inflated grade this time to make everyone happy.

 The name of the route, Shúshaynsh, is the local Native American word for a Steelhead trout.  It is pronounced shoe-shines-shh  Here is a link to it being pronounced depts.washington.edu/sahapt…

Shushaynsh

This route is short. Aside from that, there's not much else to complain about. Sustained, technical cruxes, near-perfect rock, and beautiful positions highlight this classic line. The movement on this is completely atypical to your standard Trout Creek crack climb.

 Begin with hyper-technical stemming and liebacking between a narrow off-set and a shallow dihedral. After pulling onto a decent stance at mid height, get back what you can before firing off a slightly harder mirror image of the Mayfly's crux lieback. From here it's only another 10' of .12- on sequential, flaring fingerlocks to the jug. Finish by mantling onto the jug and climbing up and left on positive holds to the chains. (the last sequence is a tad contrived due to the anchor location, but is a more aesthetic and classic finish that avoids moderate climbing on a big suspect block out right)

The Compleat Angler

Another moderate twin-crack system: one wide and one thin. The technical crux is probably the thin hands right at the start, but the wideness-intimidation-factor is likely why this line gets done so rarely. Wide climbing aside, this is probably the easiest line in the heart of the Main Wall and is totally worth your time. (no off-widthing necessary) At the top either step right to the Monster anchor or tunnel straight up the gut to daylight and build an anchor on top. The 'extension' is actually pretty cool, moderate, and protects surprisingly well.

The River Wide

Come expecting 40' of beautiful, BD 0.5 splitter to a funky crack switch to the left. (somewhat up to the climber's discretion, I found it easiest to switch when my feet were on the last large edge in the original crack, but others traverse left higher up)  Once established in the left crack, enjoy engaging finger locks and face moves to the chains.

Gateway

Another classic stembox.  In this case, it's locker fingers pretty much bottom to top.  Difficulties can be reduced by using the chimney on the left. (especially towards the start)

Diminishing Returns

Simply stunning.  Clip the Gold Rush chains, (or, if you're a purist, don't and place gear next to them) shake out, and commit to the gently overhanging, pocketed headwall above.  Big, technical moves on mostly big holds will see you to the chains above.

Dame El Oro

Twin cracks about 3-4 inches apart make for interesting jamming for most of the route. An obvious undercling roof at the top provides the standard exciting Trout Creek finish.

 As of 9/27/19, there's a new extension that climbs up and right from the chains.  Currently it doesn't have an anchor on top, but you can build one out of two (or three) #3s.  Bring a selection of tips gear and RPs (tricams could be useful) plus a #1 to protect enjoyable, bouldery movement on jugs and gas pockets up perfect rock to the rim.  The best finish ends on the arete.

Wondertwins

Starts in a thin hands crack that quickly widens.  Mantle onto the column and climb the zig-zag crack.  Traverse right before mantling onto the upper column to clip the chains.

Two Step Right

Probably the 3rd best hand crack at the main wall after Gold Rush and JR Token, although this one is going to feel quite a bit harder if you have large hands. 

  Place some good gear off the starting block and get ready for 10ft. of ringlocks before the hands start sinking in.  The zig-zaging nature of the crack makes for easier-than-average feet, but the climbing is somewhat relentless.

Mr. Squiggles

A double crack leads to a technical seam stem problem with various openings just big enough for finger tips.

Purple Pinky Eater

Original submission pared down to relevant info: Place two pieces from the starting block and cast off.  Do three moves and place the red c3 no problem, ok, let's keep going!  Struggle with gear placement and endurance crux. Foot deadpoint, endurance crux, last boulder problem. There's a rest before the last boulder problem. The crux of this section is getting my left hand just right - it's a pinky down open hand flare lock.  And the ensuing right first finger mono lock. Flying high!

Flying with Goldens

Scramble up two stair-cased pillars to access a beautiful hand crack. Follow this down through the sizes to a tapering thin crux.

 For the 5.12 R finish, climb straight up past the chains to the rim. For gear, the guide recommends 'a strong head.' (don't clip the chains, good gear can be found in the horizontal on the right wall that better directs your fall off the crux)

 A more moderate (and arguably more fun) extension steps left around the corner and finishes as for Fall Line/Res Blues/True Grit.  This is the only anchor you need a rope longer than 60m for (a 65m rope is about perfect) and it is a great way to hang a TR on 5 different 5.12 and up tips cracks.

JR Token

Straightforward climbing up a twin crack-stembox takes you to the flake.  The crux kicks in once you leave the flake.  Most agree that 5.10 is kind of a stiff grade for this route.  (it's been dubbed by some, 'the ruiner,' in reference to how their day went after 'warming up' on this route)

Unknown  1

Reservation Blues

This is a trad climb in the truest sense of the word.  Established ground up without any inspection, it fully delivered on the adventure front.  This isn't a particularly safe or sanitized route.  There are suspect hollow blocks up high that need to be navigated with care and the pro for the first 50' is pretty marginal.

 After scampering up to the ledge at the base, build a small nest of thin pro before casting off on relatively mellow, albeit heady stemming and liebacking.  In the first 50' the the biggest piece of gear I found was a sole green c3.  If I'd had two more red ballnuts, (I brought 2) I would've happily placed them.  The climbing is somewhat interesting, but what makes the line fun is the feature: stemming off the shallow offset on the right and the Time Bomb pillar on the left is wild!  In the middle I chickened out and at a small foothold in the left crack, opted to crawl into the chimney to relax and get some real gear.  I climbed up it for another 10-20' before hand traversing back out at the base of the hanging flake.  It's probably possible to stay straight and avoid the chimney with a bit more boldness. (this might also bump the grade up) The finish up the final headwall is the most compelling part of the route.  Truly hero climbing up a beautiful headwall with horizontals and gas pockets. (and a decent amount of lichen)  Build an anchor on top out of hand size cams and walk south to get back to the base.

Community Pillars

Start in Unknown 1's double cracks and cut left to Monster at the horizontal ledge.  Finish for Monster.  Excellent thin to cupped hands above the traverse.

Landing a Monster

Another killer line. It's worth considering that this line and it's neighbor to the left were both put up on-sight, ground-up, on the same trip by one person. Full Clip is basically the stemming version of Winter Sustenance. Climb through a seemingly endless 60' of yellow and blue metolius to a brief crux move followed by a tenuous no-hands stem. After this it's another 20' of sustained 5.10+ to the chains.

Full Clip

Just right of Gateway is a unique thin crack. A tricky boulder start over an elevator shaft will initially catch your attention (this is hard to protect so take precaution as a fall here could be suboptimal). Tips lead to good finger locks, pass L under a roof and head to the Gateway anchor

The Martian Chronicles

Continuous off-width climbing. Wear long pants and sleeves and tape up! Great way to work on heel-toes and arm-bars.

[Redacted]

Fall Line is amazing and one of the region's best pure sustained thin cracks. No move is probably any harder than honest .11+, and few are much easier. With so many thin locks and sharp stone, finger skin is a limiting factor. Some locks opened up and many became less sharp over 4-5 days of climbing on this. 

  Comparing ratings between areas and climbing styles doesn't seem as helpful as trying to be internally consistent at a given crag. This route is a significantly harder send than Winter Sustenance, Reservation Blues, or May Fly. But it is an endurance climb without anything harder than ~V4 and is finger size dependent.    take any suggested grade with a grain of salt and just enjoy the climb if it's 5.11 or 5.13.

Fall Line

Longer than the average Trout Creek route.  Gritty thin hands and nice finger locks lead to a few hand sized openings up high.  After an easy to navigate wide section, pull a fun roof and climb easy moves on poorish quality rock to the anchor.  This thing gave me and my big mitts a pump.

Wengerbanger

From theflyfishingforum.com: The shadow cast, no doubt, is a dramatic performance to witness. When done properly, it rivals the artistic beauty of the sweetest ballet. Unfortunately, it really has no real useful place in our casting arsenal. While being a sight to behold, it serves no other purpose other than to impress our friends and foe. Yet still, it remains a cast worthy of effort provided you have the time to learn it well.

 This thing has some amazing movement guarded by some suboptimal protection.  Scamper up Lou Dog's opening chimney to a sit down rest before the business.  20' of physical moves on generally good holds lead to a final no-hands on a sloping shelf.  Above this is another 20' of brilliant, thin stemming and arete pinching with somewhat marginal pro.  From the finishing jug, I climbed right and scrambled up to the Lou Dog anchor to lower off.  Spanning over to Lou Dog would be hard if you're short.

Shadow Casting

Super classic chimney climbing, both wide and squeeze.  Full body chimneying will hopefully get you to the horizontal crack break. At this point (if not earlier if you are short) you will probably be forced to commit left or right.  The FA chose the left joint and and worked the squeeze to the ledge and anchor atop The Long March.  This climb is a great opportunity to have an old school Yosemite like climbing experience on a beautiful feature.

Slim Pickens

This route should get way more traffic than it does. Overall the movement is easier than hardest moves on Alchemy, but it's a bit more sustained. Regardless this thing is a classic at a grade that there aren't enough of around here. Get on it!

 Start up Fingerlings and follow it to the jug/rest on the right. At the jug, hand traverse right and battle up an intricate combination of stemming and lie-backing. Get back what you can below the roof before pulling a wild sequence on hidden holds to turn the lip.  

 It's easy to set up a TR for the low crux from Fingerlings or to climb up Fingerlings into the top of the route. (mid 5.11) Additionally, the 5.11 climbing through the roof sequence is easily avoided to the left on somewhat hollow 5.9 terrain. (but the roof is really, really fun, so you shouldn't skip it)

Pumphouse Park

Another variation off Gateway. Start on Gateway, and instead of stepping L, climb another body length or so to a scarred section on the column face. Step R into the adjacent crack and climb hard laybacks and stems to the Gateway anchor

Rightway

Stout! This route is the harder version of Monster, but has an easier grade. (hmmm...) In any case, it's a super-aesthetic splitter that looks like it should be straight-forward fingers, but isn't. The start is characterized by thin and powerful locks that are yet to be comfortized by the countless ascents other, more popular finger cracks have seen. (on my first lead go, my right index finger went numb for five minutes)

 Like Monster, once you've punched through the short, lower crux, you've just got to keep it together through a couple more bouldery moves and it's in the bag. Expect some airy, funky climbing up high before the chains.

Redd Alert

Climb in a stem box featuring a wide left crack and a finger-sized right crack. Stem, chimney, and jam up to a short constriction after which both cracks become hand sized.

Unknown 3 AKA: Wally's Warm Up

Midas Touch is one of the best routes at Trout. If you think every route here is an endurance test, this will quickly dissuade you. It features cruxy face climbing, pockets, stemming, and even some crucial incuts. Similar to Purple Pinky Eater, the cruxy climbing occurs after 50' of 5.10 crack climbing, so even though big fall potential exists, these falls should be safe. This alone makes it a nice change from the headier starts on Monster, Space Mission, and other routes of similar grade. 

  When the two thin-hand cracks end, use a mix of features via sustained 5.11 climbing. Pass 2 possible small gear placements and hit the horizontal atop the crux sequence. Going ground-up should be safe, but the crux placements are fairly specific.

Midas Touch

Long reaches between good jams lead to a gradually widening off-width finish. The angle eases slightly for the wide section, making it more forgiving than other off-widths on the Main Wall.

The Guillotine

A must-do for any stemming aficionado, this route starts from the same pillar as Reservation Blues and climbs the perfect open book directly above. The crux starts right away and involves a mostly pinched shut crack that barely goes via a nuanced blend of stemming, palming, and arete pinches. It probably took me 20 tries just to figure out how to step off of the pillar and easily double that to piece together the rest of the crux sequences.

 After about twenty feet the crack starts to open up to occasional first digit mono locks interspersed with crimps. While this is definitely easier than the crux, it's far from easy and you want to dial it in well for the red point. Shortly thereafter it opens up to fingers-in-a-corner stemming more typical of the established lines at Trout. This feels easy while you're working it, but can be desperate on the go.

 Just before the corner ends and jugs start to appear, the crack slams shut again and you have to execute one more technical stemming crux that revolves around a key left foot. Falling here is a real possibility and would be a total heartbreaker. My strategy was to TR this sequence every time I lowered from the RB/FL anchors to fully lock it in.

 Overall, the movement on the cruxes of this line is some of the most beautiful and cerebral (and hard!) that I've done here.

True Grit

If technical, delicate stemming is your bag, then this route's for you.  A slight notch harder than Space Mission, Steelhead features a similar somewhat baffling stemming crux down low followed by sustained, but easier climbing above. 

  This route (like Space Mission) isn't ideal for top-roping as a climber falling off the low crux that's not getting power-belayed is likely to tickle the ground.  Conversely, on lead, there is ample gear and the bottom could be easily french freed if you were unable to work out the moves.  That being said, you have to know how to properly place small (tiny to some) gear.

Steelhead

Twin Cracks with a seam on the left and an off-width on the right force creative movement to create another classic route. (if you're a chicken like me and avoid using OW technique whenever possible)  I suspect that this climb gets very little traffic because it has some wide bits, but don't let that deter you!  It's a great climb and the widest sections are easily lie-backed.

Chinese Chicken

Pull the roof after finishing JR token and commit to the runout boulder problem. Large, scary fall potential. FA was done in an impressive ground up style. 

Immortal Illusions

Climb the bouldery direct line between Steelhead and Gateway, via tiny face holds, flakes, painful tips locks, and some huge patina plates. Aerie Interlude is essentially a face climb and a series of 2 boulder problems with stances. The first is v4-v5, and the second is v6-v7. After the upper problem, you'll hit a hero jug rail on the left (similar to Mayfly) and finish up some stemming and finger cracks as per Gateway.Airy Interlude, in the Needles, is one of the country's most famous routes. This route was established on the last day of Trout's climbing season, before the eagle nest closure. Fans of crosswords will know the word Aerie, it must be Will Shortz's favorite way to crowd in the vowels.

Aerie Interlude

This is an excellent route with sustained stemming all the way to the top.  The route quality is right up there with El Matador but the stemming is not as far apart.  There are two cracks, one in each corner and they both take great gear.  Do this route and get ready for a good calve pump.

The Space Between

Double crack climb with good stances, solid jamming and the ability to TR several neighboring climbs.

Electric Chair

Awesome, varied climbing.  Sequency moves off the ground yield to a spectacular finger and hand crack that will take you to the ledge.  From here, work up a unique wide crack to an exciting move out a roof to the chains.  This would make for a great first Trout Creek 5.11-.

California Weakender

Start up the Question Air Box's heady first moves. From the top of the pillar, step left into an off-set fingercrack. Punch it through an awesome crux sequence and then savor the splitter waiting above.

 The start is a definite detractor for some, but should be pretty casual for anyone who has any hope of sending the crux. That being said, this is likely one of the easier 12- routes to tick at the crag.

Out of the Question

This thing is a total must-do.  While it's not an enduro splitter, it's got varied and exciting pacing, enough gear for it to be a totally safe adventure, and super fun movement.  Start out on moderate thin hands that lead to a leftward roof-traverse.  Above the roof, lie-backs and fingerlocks quickly end as the crack pinches down and thin stemming moves on small gear get you to a classic thank-god hold and a rest. More insecure palming, smearing, and arete-pinching is interrupted by another jug where you set up for the final crux. Place your last pieces in the horizontal, and mentally prepare yourself for a wild and cruxy finishing sequence above the gear.

Geologic Time

Splitter fingers forever.  Likely candidate for one of the best fingercracks anywhere.  A brief section of tips up high is probably the true crux, but not pumping off the sustained movement is the real battle.

Winter Sustenance

Straight in endurance hand jamming with cruxes at the start and finish.

Gold Rush

In the middle of the cliff, left of Lou Dog, are short columns leaning up against the main wall. Climb a wide crack on one of these leaning columns, then continue up on a thin crack and step left to get to the rim. Currently no bolted anchor, walk south and back around to the base.

Horse With No Name

Monster starts as a tricky tips crack that gradually opens up to fingers and hands. 

  The technical crux comes fairly low, but after a couple of decent rests in the middle you'll still find yourself looking at a good deal of ever-widening hands before you reach the chains. 

  The opening sequences can be made significantly easier if you cheat a bit by laybacking and using the next crack over to the left, but if you're a purist try going straight in. 

  This is an incredibly fun route.

Monster

Very technical and strenuous stemming down low, transitions into sharp but decent locks as you move up. This climb seems out of character for Trout as there are a couple good rest throughout the route, separated by cruxy sections of stemming, laybacking and jamming, join and finish via Red Alert at the top of the stem box. It deserves traffic get on it!  

  It obviously has not been climbed much as the rock is a bit gritty still and there is plenty of lichen on the stem box walls, it is clean where it counts, but be prepared for some painful locks.

Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land)

Classic! Easily the best pitch of 5.9 at the crag and likely Oregon's best moderate chimney trainer.  Scramble in from the left with the crux coming establishing yourself in the chimney.  Straightforward chimneying with gear in a gently widening thin crack.  Build an anchor on top and walk off to the right.  A good option for cold days.

Time Bomb

Another classic Trout twin-crack stembox.  Fire through the low, fingery crux to the better jams and enjoyable traverse up high.  Feels reminiscent of Space Mission, but a full number grade easier.

Unknown  2

Climb Gateway, and instead of stepping L into the double crack continue straight up on tips and tenuous stemming to the anchor

Straightway

Thin stemming quickly opens up to better jams.  The crux off the deck is tricky to protect, but there's enough gear that you won't drag your belayer off their stance.   

  The first ascensionists put the route up sans bolted anchor by continuing to the rim.  This was pre-guidebook and others put a two bolt anchor in at a logical stance below the rim, thinking that they had done the FA.

Bushwhacker

U4 is an intimidating route that requires wide stemming, laybacking and jamming to get to the top.  Placing gear can be difficult because your usually in a layback or wide stem when doing it and its hard to see the placements.  Don't let this discourage you though the climbing is never that difficult and the route is fantastic.  Shorter climbers may find the route more difficult, I'm 6' tall with a 0 ape index and felt 11- was about right.

Unknown 4

Striking big crack in the middle of the wall with green lichen on right. Start with short chimney to top of stubby column, big hands and fist crack to bulge. 

Lou Dog

This is a grunt that will force you to use everything from hand and fist jams, to armbars, sidepulls, and possibly even some chimney techniques. Much of the route can be done with a left armbar, a right hand or fist jam, and working the feet up the double cracks.  Towards the top, things change as the cracks offset more and the outer portion of each crack forms a "double arete squeeze chimney" (if such a thing actually exists). Probably as many ways to climb this next 20 feet as there are climbers. Exit over a block wedged between the two cracks (reachy and strenuous) to a chain anchor.

Fissuremen

This is a new direct finish to the May Fly. The May Fly is one of the most classic hard lines at Trout and this variation is equally deserving of must-do status. You start Main Stream by climbing the sustained finger crack of the May Fly past the first mini crux, but instead of traversing left through the boulder problem, continue straight up the original crack as it seams out into almost nothing. Another ten feet of desperate face climbing takes you to the chains of Fissuremen. The run out up top is mitigated by placing a blue ball nut in the seam.

Main Stream

Likely the most common 'first 5.12' for many at Trout. (though by no means the easiest tick...) Rattly fingers and liebacking leads to a cruxy transition into fingers and eventually a rest. From there stemming and fingerlocks will take you up to the crux stemming sequence. Finish with 40+ feet of steep, juggy, and spectacular climbing to the chains. This is one of the few slightly contrived lines at the crag with Gold Rush so close at hand through much of the hard climbing.

 It's worth noting that many have awkward experiences the first time they climb to the chains. The chains are very far out to the left of the upper dihedral and if you stem up to the same level as the chains, you might be able to clip them from an ok, but exciting stance in the corner. The sequence their location was intended to force follows a horizontal out to the left arete and up the arete. It is exposed, fantastic, and a much better option.

Alchemy

Straightforward jams up the left crack of a twin crack system lead to some sustained moves at mid height.  Gain a rest good enough to retie errant shoelaces from and charge higher to the crux.  Face moves on thin gear lead to another sporty Trout Creek finish.

Fun Soup

Maybe a little sandy for the grade, this route is a good step in the progression towards climbing splitter fingers.  Work through thin stemming off the deck and then climb the left crack on solid fingers for most of the rest of the route.

Space Mission

Continue past Two Step's anchors into the flaring offwidth/squeeze chimney bulge.

Double Trouble Extension

An excellent variation to Wengerbanger, this route traverses right at a horizontal break at two thirds height to access a rapidly widening fingers corner. The traverse is likely the crux and the climbing only eases the higher you go.  If you hand traverse, it's probably mid 5.11 while foot traversing will knock the grade down a notch. (but is reachier) The climbing is excellent from bottom to top and should not be missed!

Fire and Sage

Once the hardest line at trout!  It has been rumored that Tommy Caldwell gave it a 5.13- rating.  This is a step into hardcore crack climbing, with potential for some big airtime if you blow the crux.  What an amazing route!

The May Fly

Gold Rush with a more exciting finish.  Climb Gold Rush to the horizontal finger traverse on the right, just below the finishing roof.  Traverse right (crux) and establish yourself for the 5.10 finish of Alchemy.  A great linkup.

Pan Handlin'

If you can reach the opening lock, the grade makes sense.  If not, it's really hard to get established on the route and it will be much more difficult.  Pull hard through the first couple moves and don't let your guard down higher up.

Fingerlings

Another classic moderate.  Technical stemming w/fingerlocks at the start relent to classic Trout Creek twin-crack climbing.  Grab a shake at the top before bouldering up and right to the chains.

The Long March

Climb the wide-hand crack to the ledge, climb the crazy hand crack above that, and try to figure out the finish.

Two Step Left

Classic double cracks. 

  Some of the best backstepping, finger jamming, and stemming that you'll ever see on a 5.10.  The two finger cracks provide ample secure jams, and the gear goes in easily.

Suzuki

This line is completely unlike anything else at the crag and is really, really fun. (to toprope) The gear is barely good enough to allow it to go, the rock immaculate, and the movement mindblowing.  (and for the record, it's awaiting a true redpoint ascent, I preplaced and preclipped my first pieces in and just below the first finger slot) Runouts and marginal pro notwithstanding, it's amazing to climb on and has cerebral, bouldery movement with just enough holds.  Each crux will likely feel impossible while working out the beta and then like you're floating when you send.Get established on the arete from the ledge below Fun Soup and fight through a gradually building onslaught of arete pinches, thin feet, and comically bad holds for your left hand.  This culminates in a desperate move to the first real hold in the 'crack' and a brief opportunity to try and control your breathing.  The exit moves out of the crux, while easier, are no joke and probably have some of the most serious pro on the pitch. A #3 BD Microstopper (which is annoyingly out of production-let me know if you need one) and a green c3 in a flaring slot are all you get for another 15' of physical slapping up the arete to a jug.At the first rest, build a nest of small RPs and ballnuts before committing to more devious arete-trickery, a few desperate liebacks and stems, and a wild move to a thank-god jug with better holds and a no-hands rest above.  Theoretically there's gear to be had in the section to the jug, but I wasn't strong enough to stop and hang on long enough to place it.From the rest, place the first real cams of the route (fingers and tips) before scampering up some slightly easier moves to a wild final crux on the arete.  After battling through to here, all that's left is to hang on through three very airy lockoffs on pockets and a crimp and you're at the horizontal jugs below the finish to Pumphouse Park. (and, more importantly, gear) From that point, savor the comparatively simple 5.11 exit crux on Pumphouse before finally clipping the chains.

Holding the Line

Long overlooked because it appeared welded with loose blocks, this crack finally was found to take gear and have solid rock. Expect techy stemming and palming, and finicky gear. A two bolt anchor was recently added.

Rocinante

The name says it all. This route is the advanced version of Double Trouble and features sustained, semi-monotonous stem-work from bottom to top.  Hip to Toe is another neglected classic that deserves far more attention than it gets. (likely due to the gear) If you're dialed in on the TC friction and stemming, the grade will feel right on, otherwise, it'll be doubly desperate.  Either way expect more steep, classic climbing on bomber (albeit thin) gear from bottom to top.

Hip to Toe

Trout's west facing main wall.  Oregon's highest concentration of vertical cracks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Main Wall