Romp up the grey slab, 

enjoy a pleasant foot ledge

briefly rock climb the crux bulge,

(If Scared yer gunna WHALE!)

continue romping up a slab 

(bolts included here for your safety and comfort.)

Surmount the summit block and sign the register. Woo Hoo!

Whale If Yer Scared

Whale If Yer Scared (Ahab Direct)

Scotty's Melons

The Gift

Anzac Biscuit

Mogolef

Michaelangemo

Choss Whisperer

Mogoright

Directly underneath the main "Whale if Yer Scared" line, the direct start is significantly harder than the main route and ascends the relatively clean low arete/prow of Motown.

Pull a long bouldery sequence that includes some slapping around on a blunt arete, muttering under your breath about the poor feet, and a strong undercling before pulling onto the slab, wiping your brow, and finishing out the route.

Fun little roof/mantle followed by some thin face moves.

A short, slightly overhanging crack. Fist-sized at the bottom, finger-sized in the upper half.

Climb up and around either the left or right side of the lower bulge, then keep going onto all the way to the top of the ramp/broken pillar. Clip the first bolt on the face then use tricky footwork to climb past the first couple bolts to some good left-facing edges. Get a good rest then make a few tricky moves past a small overlap up high (crux). At this overlap, the route heads slightly left to join the top of Michaelangemo and easier climbing above. Climb past a pair of old bolts at the lip to reach the current anchor, which is 8 ft higher on the slab above.

For those who go to the right around the lower bulge: Back cleaning the first two bolts on the bulge is helpful for rope drag. And you can clip the first face bolt on Choss Whisperer (4th overall) and then back clean it to reduce rope drag.

The leftmost route at Motown, Micaelangemo climbs up and left around the early bulge before tackling a vertical face on good edges. Tackle a low crux off the ledge to easier climbing up high. The bolts on the face are spaced very close together, so no need to worry about decking.

Climb up around the right side of the low overhang past some chossy rock to a good ledge. From here, climb up a shallow left-facing corner for several feet. Once the corner peters out, clip a bolt then move right on crimps (crux). Once you reach the arete, get a good rest before a final redpoint crux between the last bolt and the chains.

Start as for Choss Whisperer (careful about loose rock down low) then head right when the two lines split at the 6th bolt. After climbing up a shallow, left-facing corner, head slightly right and eventually around the arete onto a slab. 

It's helpful to use long draws or back clean the first couple bolts, though rope drag will still be bad given that the anchors finish around an arete. For that reason, it's not really recommended to TR this route.

The Bay Area Climbers Coalition is a volunteer-run 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization focused on preserving access to our local outdoor areas by actively fostering positive relationships with land managers, hosting stewardship events, and providing educational programming for the climbing community. Formed in 2013 and incorporated as a non-profit in 2014, the Coalition has brought hundreds of volunteers to over a dozen Bay Area crags, successfully removing thousands of pounds of trash and other debris, clearing graffiti from multiple rock walls, and improving miles of access trails. We are the only official partner of the Access Fund in this region and we serve as the first point of contact for land managers interested in communicating with the climbing community. The Bay Area Climbers Coalition works to bring together all individuals and organizations in the San Francisco Bay Area interested in protecting and caring for our local climbing resources, including:

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Motown